MGB & GT Forum
tips for installing side trim
Posted by mac townsend
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Topic Creator (OP)
Sep 17, 2014 03:34 PM
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Joined 18 years ago
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I was re-installing somewhat dented but usable "chrome" strips (actually Stainless) after painting. Wire brushed and ScotchBrighted inside the strips to clean away dirt and old paint.
Using new clips (the old ones were distorted or damaged and required too much hammering to get strips on right. Strips were installed from the stud plate forward (on the rears) and stud plate backwards (on the front).
Had a helper, the indefatigable Randy Carlson, using a slight mallet action to drive the strips on after pushing no longer worked, while I concentrated on getting the strips onto the clips and keeping them out of the paint. This was not so easy...
Until my wife suggested using a plastic playing card between the strip and the paint. BAM! (as Emeril used to say on his cooking show). That and a slight sanding of the leading edge (I used 500 grit) of the lead edge of the strip to "polish" the flat edge to remove sharp burrs or whatever) made the job pretty easy for two folks. I can't see how one guy could both guide the strip and push it on. But I'm sure some have managed.
Did remove tail light fixtures to get rear strips all the way on. Did not have to do this with headlight rims. Used a little spray "dry" lubricant/silicone spray on one install but it didn't seem to make any difference so did not bother on the others.
1973 Pale Primrose Roadster. A nice 10-footer!
SUs, Datsun 5-speed
Using new clips (the old ones were distorted or damaged and required too much hammering to get strips on right. Strips were installed from the stud plate forward (on the rears) and stud plate backwards (on the front).
Had a helper, the indefatigable Randy Carlson, using a slight mallet action to drive the strips on after pushing no longer worked, while I concentrated on getting the strips onto the clips and keeping them out of the paint. This was not so easy...
Until my wife suggested using a plastic playing card between the strip and the paint. BAM! (as Emeril used to say on his cooking show). That and a slight sanding of the leading edge (I used 500 grit) of the lead edge of the strip to "polish" the flat edge to remove sharp burrs or whatever) made the job pretty easy for two folks. I can't see how one guy could both guide the strip and push it on. But I'm sure some have managed.
Did remove tail light fixtures to get rear strips all the way on. Did not have to do this with headlight rims. Used a little spray "dry" lubricant/silicone spray on one install but it didn't seem to make any difference so did not bother on the others.
1973 Pale Primrose Roadster. A nice 10-footer!
SUs, Datsun 5-speed
Sep 17, 2014 03:42 PM
Joined 14 years ago
757 Posts
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Mac,
Did you put these on before the door cards? I learned the hard way that you cannot put the nut on the center door fastener after the door cards are in place. Mine are currently floating without this nut clamping the door moldings secure. I got most order of assembly things right but missed this one. If I ever take the interior back off the doors I will try and remember to put the nuts on the center of moldings.
Cheers,
Bob
Did you put these on before the door cards? I learned the hard way that you cannot put the nut on the center door fastener after the door cards are in place. Mine are currently floating without this nut clamping the door moldings secure. I got most order of assembly things right but missed this one. If I ever take the interior back off the doors I will try and remember to put the nuts on the center of moldings.
Cheers,
Bob
Sep 17, 2014 04:17 PM
Joined 10 years ago
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EmgesMG
Robert Emge
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Sep 17, 2014 06:00 PM
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mollydad57
Jay S
MERRITT ISLAND, FL, USA
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Sep 17, 2014 06:29 PM
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Topic Creator (OP)
Sep 17, 2014 08:11 PM
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Joined 18 years ago
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the door strips were put on long before the door interior parts (windows etc) were re-installed. This was obvious during disassembly, even to me<G>. Not sure you can get to it with window/hardware installed.
The studs were put into the fender holes (at back end for the rear and front end for front, as loose as possible. Then threaded the strips onto the square plates and proceeded to move the strip forward (or rearward as the case may be). When done, a 5/16" socket snugged up the stud plates.
1973 Pale Primrose Roadster. A nice 10-footer!
SUs, Datsun 5-speed
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-09-17 08:14 PM by mac townsend.
The studs were put into the fender holes (at back end for the rear and front end for front, as loose as possible. Then threaded the strips onto the square plates and proceeded to move the strip forward (or rearward as the case may be). When done, a 5/16" socket snugged up the stud plates.
In reply to # 2799860 by bpaquette
Mac,
Did you put these on before the door cards? I learned the hard way that you cannot put the nut on the center door fastener after the door cards are in place. Mine are currently floating without this nut clamping the door moldings secure. I got most order of assembly things right but missed this one. If I ever take the interior back off the doors I will try and remember to put the nuts on the center of moldings.
Cheers,
Bob
Did you put these on before the door cards? I learned the hard way that you cannot put the nut on the center door fastener after the door cards are in place. Mine are currently floating without this nut clamping the door moldings secure. I got most order of assembly things right but missed this one. If I ever take the interior back off the doors I will try and remember to put the nuts on the center of moldings.
Cheers,
Bob
1973 Pale Primrose Roadster. A nice 10-footer!
SUs, Datsun 5-speed
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-09-17 08:14 PM by mac townsend.
Georgetown, TX, USA
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Sep 17, 2014 08:41 PM
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Joined 12 years ago
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I found that once I riveted the buttons to the car, I could place the top edge of the trim piece on the button, and push the bottom edge in place. No sliding required.
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Sprite Lou
Lou A.
Springfield, OR, USA
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Sep 17, 2014 08:58 PM
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In reply to # 2800127 by Dave Braun
I found that once I riveted the buttons to the car, I could place the top edge of the trim piece on the button, and push the bottom edge in place. No sliding required.
X2
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Topic Creator (OP)
Sep 17, 2014 09:27 PM
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curtis7420
Curtis Wright
University City, MO, USA
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Sep 17, 2014 09:52 PM
Joined 12 years ago
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I found the trick to putting on the strips is to leave the screw ones loose, slide on the molding, push the molding on the buttons, then tighten up the nuts. One man/person job. Unfortunate part for me is it took scratching my paint prior to figuring this out. Small scratch, just another spot to add to the list of imperfections to take care of...
Phantomracer
Paul Seeberg
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Sep 18, 2014 05:55 AM
Joined 17 years ago
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In reply to # 2800138 by Sprite Lou
X2
In reply to # 2800127 by Dave Braun
I found that once I riveted the buttons to the car, I could place the top edge of the trim piece on the button, and push the bottom edge in place. No sliding required.
X2
x3 Never thought of sliding them on. That seems like a lot of extra work and potential for damaged trim pieces or paint. I just coated each button with a marine wax coating (waxoyl would work). cliped the top edge and snapped it o the bottom. (like dave said). about 14 seconds to do each trim piece.
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