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rewiring a 76 midget 1500

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clarise wampler Avatar
cooper, TX, USA   USA
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Can someone help me rewire a 76 midget 1500 that someone else took the wiring out of. This car means the World to me thanks.

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79powerwagon Avatar
79powerwagon Eric L
Hubertus, WI, USA   USA
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Welcome! And you are really going to need someone close by to assist, but wiring a car isn't as tough as it appears. The trick is to know what you are starting with, and have an understanding of the subsystems involved. Break it down into smaller, more manageable tasks, and you'll have it in short order!

What are you starting with? Can you show us?

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pandpriley Avatar
pandpriley Patrick Riley
Fort Worth, TX, USA   USA
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Clarise,

My '75 came with most of the individual wires under the hood missing due to rodents. I was left with only the terminals. And some bozo completely trashed the wiring in the trunk. UGH! Know where you are coming from.

Is the missing wiring limited only to the individual wires outside of the wiring harness or does it include the harness?
If the harness itself is missing I would bite the bullet and get a new harness from Moss Motors or Victoria British Cars. Otherwise, you can replace the missing pieces individually.
Begin by buying Haynes MG Midget/Sprite Automotive Repair Manual (Moss or Victoria) and turn to page 205, Fig. 10.28 Wiring Diagram which covers USA 1500 models to the end of 1977 production. Refer also to page 194 for the Key to the numbers and letters in the wiring diagram. If you have to buy a new harness, there are three, then the book will help you hook everything up. If you are just replacing individual wires then what is below is a place to begin.

I used 14 gauge wire and weatherproof male and female bullet connectors purchased at the local O'Rielly's and AutoZone. Some of the multiple female connectors and special connectors I had to get from Moss. Try to match the colors in the diagram so you can follow the wires now and at a later date.
In laying the wire, begin at the Battery (#3 on the diagram) and follow each wire by color to each appliance on the diagram. Then look for the same thing in the car. You can test the veracity of your findings by using a 14 gauge jump cable with alligator clips to see if you get the desired results. Just do only one wire at a time. Every wire in the engine compartment runs down the driver's side of the car, EXCEPT those to the fuse box (#19 in the diagram). The fuse box supply wires come through the firewall on the passenger's side and connect to the dash wiring harness.

This is only a start, so get back with me if you need to. Physically, I am closer than Winconsin and sometimes close to your neighborhood.

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littlecars David Bassett
Nashville, TN, USA   USA
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1963 Chevrolet Corvair "Cheeto!"
1965 Chevrolet Corvair "Ski Team Transport SOLD!"
1965 MG Midget MkII "Buffoon --- SOLD!!!"
1966 MG Midget MkII "Swiss Cheese...SCRAPPED"    & more
Wow…they really must have changed things from 1975-onward, Patrick. All of my wiring is running on the passenger side! The only thing on my drivers side are the feeds for the wipers, washers and the ground strap for the battery.

I knew a lot of things are backwards on a 1500 like the heater blower and location of the carb due to the Spit engine.

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pandpriley Avatar
pandpriley Patrick Riley
Fort Worth, TX, USA   USA
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Yep, with the 1500 everything is reversed.

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nightfire25 Avatar
nightfire25 kelvin lambert
swansea, wales, UK   GBR
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mg are an easy car to wire
they have a simple wiring code black is earth black/stripe is the earth going output of a switch.
eg anything green is ignition fused white unfused ignition supply
red is sidelights red with stripe is fused sidelights
brown is battery un fused supply purple is fused battery supply
blue is headlights
eg
supply light switch brown, side light supply from switch red, light switch to dip switch blue,
blue/ white high beam
blue/red dipped beam

a typical ignition switch would have
brown battery supply in
white ignition supply output
light green/white accessories output
white red starter engage output
so brake lights from ignition switch to fusebox white cable, fusebox to brake light switch green, from switch to rear lights green/purple
if you were closer I would do one of these in about 6 hours.
but you are on the other side of the world
all I can do is offer advice and help

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mrburn42 Avatar
mrburn42 justin kraus
kissimmee, FL, USA   USA
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I recommend the simple approach.
Engine:
Starter
Ignition
Charging
Lights:
Headlight/ high
Turn
Interior
Thats pretty much all you need to drive it.(Obviously) ...

Take your time.

Get back with us and pictures if you dont understand something.
These guys can make a world of difference.

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about 1 year and 3 months later...
clarise wampler Avatar
cooper, TX, USA   USA
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Thanks i am having trouble getting everything behind dash where is should be. I need to hook up head lights and tail lights and horn and the wipers

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jimmycoco Avatar
jimmycoco Noah H
Edmonton, AB, Canada   CAN
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Do you have a good wiring diagram? I redid the whole wiring harness in my 1977 a couple years ago. I probably still have color wiring diagrams i could email you.

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idrivemyself Avatar
idrivemyself Kyle H
Middle of Somewhere, OR, USA   USA
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If you, or anyone else, needs an additional wiring harness for section replacement, connectors or to rebuild, I have the complete assembly out of my '75 1500 available. A few of the connections on the engine portion are less than desirable due to age and wear, but the rest appears sound and I'll let it go for peanuts. I no longer need it. PM me if interested.

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pandpriley Avatar
pandpriley Patrick Riley
Fort Worth, TX, USA   USA
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If you have a lot to do I found it helpful to remove the dash and move it towards the rear of the car a few inches then work from the top rather than the bottom. Try to bunch as many wires together as possible so you are dealing with only one cable, then put an 'S' in the wire just before it attaches to the item in the dash. That 'S' will allow the wire to collapse easier.

In removing the dash you MAY have to remove the steering wheel for convenience. You WILL have to remove the heater control knob then undo the securing nut and remove the washers to allow the control cable to be withdrawn from the dash. You will also have to undo the clamps holding the tach to the back side of the dash, also the speedometer drive from the back of the instrument and the oil pressure line. This will have to be done from the bottom. If you have been able to acquire a copy of Haynes Automotive Repair Manual for the Midget see Chapter 12, Section 17, Paragraphs 19-24.

If you have only a small amount to do I disconnect the three support plates on the bottom of the dash as shove them aside. That allows the dash to swing backwards a bit and allows me to get my hands in. I know of no other body position that works besides laying on the seats on my back with my feet either hanging out the door or over the top of the seat back. Not very graceful, though.

Good luck.

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