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replacing distributor

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123 Avatar
123 chuck h
Richmond, VA, USA   USA
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1977 MG Midget 1500 "Lola"
I have the original one in my 77. Should I have it rebuilt or replaced with a new type. Car runs great. Just want it to idle smoother.

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Mainline Ilya Avatar
Mainline Ilya Ilya K
Ray Brook, NY, USA   USA
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Here are a couple if you feel like spending money. A couple of members on this forum are vendors and will get you a better deal.
Im going to order this one soon to replace the stock Lucas unit in mine:
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=76120
here are a couple other options
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=112028

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=112011

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=38779



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2014-09-01 07:15 AM by Mainline Ilya.

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purpleGT Gold Member Bud Osbourne
Pittsburgh, PA., USA   USA
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1956 MG MGA 1500
1972 MG Midget MkIII
1972 MG Midget MkIII
1974 MG MGB GT "The Grape"    & more
Yeah, that makes sense. Spend a couple hundred on a distributor that wasn't designed for your car (they'd go broke if it was specifically curved for any MG engine), when you can send the original out to Jeff Schlemmer and get it rebuilt to be IDEAL for your engine's ignition needs, for less money than the generic "flame thrower" unit that is being offered.

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123 Avatar
123 chuck h
Richmond, VA, USA   USA
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1977 MG Midget 1500 "Lola"
Thanks for your reply. I have a British car mechanic 1 mile from my house and has been in business for 30 some years. He has someone he sends them to for rebuild. He strongly recommended me to do the same. It seemed easier to buy the least expensive and just put it on. I will take your suggestion.

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Mainline Ilya Avatar
Mainline Ilya Ilya K
Ray Brook, NY, USA   USA
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In reply to # 2785076 by purpleGT Yeah, that makes sense. Spend a couple hundred on a distributor that wasn't designed for your car (they'd go broke if it was specifically curved for any MG engine), when you can send the original out to Jeff Schlemmer and get it rebuilt to be IDEAL for your engine's ignition needs, for less money than the generic "flame thrower" unit that is being offered.

the original ignition on that car was trash and you know it as well as i do

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purpleGT Avatar
purpleGT Gold Member Bud Osbourne
Pittsburgh, PA., USA   USA
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1956 MG MGA 1500
1972 MG Midget MkIII
1972 MG Midget MkIII
1974 MG MGB GT "The Grape"    & more
In reply to # 2786760 by Mainline Ilya
In reply to # 2785076 by purpleGT Yeah, that makes sense. Spend a couple hundred on a distributor that wasn't designed for your car (they'd go broke if it was specifically curved for any MG engine), when you can send the original out to Jeff Schlemmer and get it rebuilt to be IDEAL for your engine's ignition needs, for less money than the generic "flame thrower" unit that is being offered.

the original ignition on that car was trash and you know it as well as i do

Well, the post '75 British Leyland systems did leave a bit to be desired. However, I'd never call them "trash". The ones that were problematic were the ones which had the module mounted directly on the distributor. I think that the '77 and newer ones had the module mounted on the inner fender, away from the heat that was killing the earlier ones. But, if you send it out to Jeff and he re-curves it and installs points, instead of "Luminition", it'll be far better than any aftermarket distributor you can buy for it and for less money, as well.

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pixelsmithusa Gerard C
San Francisco, USA   USA
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In reply to # 2785080 by 123 Thanks for your reply. I have a British car mechanic 1 mile from my house and has been in business for 30 some years. He has someone he sends them to for rebuild. He strongly recommended me to do the same. It seemed easier to buy the least expensive and just put it on. I will take your suggestion.

You may not be familiar with Jeff or Jeff's reputation, but Bud has given you the best suggestion. I was about to suggest the same until I read that Bud already put it out there. Jeff has very high standards and for about the same money as a generic, supply you with something superior, designed to suit your specific application.



Gerard

http://gerardsgarage.com/


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tomshobby Tom Smith
Windsor, WI, USA   USA
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Jeff did the dizzy for my TR6 when the engine was built. He asked for a list of the mods that were made so he could match the dizzy to what was done. He installed a Pertronix, added a thumb wheel for fine adjustment, and a spare plate with points that I carry but have never needed. That was 50,000 miles ago and everything has been golden.
Jeff also advised me when I started on my Midget.



Tom Smith
1974 Midget
1976 TR6

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Mainline Ilya Avatar
Mainline Ilya Ilya K
Ray Brook, NY, USA   USA
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In reply to # 2786778 by purpleGT
In reply to # 2786760 by Mainline Ilya
In reply to # 2785076 by purpleGT Yeah, that makes sense. Spend a couple hundred on a distributor that wasn't designed for your car (they'd go broke if it was specifically curved for any MG engine), when you can send the original out to Jeff Schlemmer and get it rebuilt to be IDEAL for your engine's ignition needs, for less money than the generic "flame thrower" unit that is being offered.

the original ignition on that car was trash and you know it as well as i do

Well, the post '75 British Leyland systems did leave a bit to be desired. However, I'd never call them "trash". The ones that were problematic were the ones which had the module mounted directly on the distributor. I think that the '77 and newer ones had the module mounted on the inner fender, away from the heat that was killing the earlier ones. But, if you send it out to Jeff and he re-curves it and installs points, instead of "Luminition", it'll be far better than any aftermarket distributor you can buy for it and for less money, as well.
I take my hat off and stand corrected. I'm still new to the MG community and MG in general. I tune cars with a laptop 99% of the time, this mechanical and vacuum wizardry is new to me.

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Speedracer Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Hap Waldrop
Taylors, SC, USA   USA
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1967 MG MGB Racecar "The Biscuit"
Most of the "new" distributor, regardless of "el-cheapo": vs high end, are what I call "Bic lighter" distributors, sure you can replace some components if they go bad, but if you have a wear problems over time, you throw them away. and get another one. Same goes for most electronic distributor applications for our cars, most offerings are mickey mouse at best. I always tell folks go with Jeff's rebuild and get his points set up, it is by far is the best quality offered for our cars.



Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
Website: www.acmespeedshop.com
hapwaldrop@acmespeedshop.com


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B-racer Jeff Schlemmer
Shakopee, MN, USA   USA
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I had the pleasure of talking with Chuck yesterday. The Opus electronics ARE terrible, but the distributors are great. They have the capability of running 500,000+ miles without the shaft wearing out! Typical aftermarket distributors run 75K and the shaft is worn significantly. The most expensive - the Mallory - doesn't even polish their shaft to a consistent dimension!

I tune fuel injection setups too - its easy once you see the correlation of needs between fuel and timing, and how they work together. The "mechanical and vacuum wizardry" is something you should know BEFORE attempting to plot fuel curves, as that's what drives the need for a set amount of fuel!!!



jeff@advanceddistributors.com

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Mainline Ilya Avatar
Mainline Ilya Ilya K
Ray Brook, NY, USA   USA
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In reply to # 2788962 by B-racer I had the pleasure of talking with Chuck yesterday. The Opus electronics ARE terrible, but the distributors are great. They have the capability of running 500,000+ miles without the shaft wearing out! Typical aftermarket distributors run 75K and the shaft is worn significantly. The most expensive - the Mallory - doesn't even polish their shaft to a consistent dimension!

I tune fuel injection setups too - its easy once you see the correlation of needs between fuel and timing, and how they work together. The "mechanical and vacuum wizardry" is something you should know BEFORE attempting to plot fuel curves, as that's what drives the need for a set amount of fuel!!!

I know it but I've have not had much experience with it so I'm not terribly comfortable with it just yet. Unless I do something at least 20 times and know it inside and out in practice not just theory I don't feel 100% with it. For me perfect is not good enough smiling smiley

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