Replace Transmission rear oil seal and speedi-sleeve - Complete

I saw many related posts on the subject of the oil seal at the tail of the transmission. I too have an oil leak at the rear gear box seal so I'll be diving into this. I plan to go with the belt and suspenders approach of using a new seal and a speedi-sleeve even though I don't know the condition of the flange yet.

I couldn't find any details or pictures specifically about the use of the speedi-sleeve. Is the sleeve to be installed over the flange that is bolted to the driveshaft? I don't have the flange off my car at the moment so the only pic I have is this really pitted example that I found on the internet.

Does the speedi-sleeve go on the surface to which I'm pointing I assume I'd have to push the sleeve on only so far to ensure the oil seal contacts the sleeve.

Regards,
Mitch

Contact Dan Hoerring (Dan-the-fit-man)... he just did this recently and has an excellent documentary on his work - (I believe PBS is in negotiations with him to aire it) :)

Danthefitman was a name of authority that kept popping up in the various threads on the subject. I couldn't figure out how to send PM with a picture. I'll PM him now and refer him to this thread!

Now you're talkin.... when I'm ready this spring for install, I will surely refer to his threads on the subject.

That was funny Lou. Unfortunately, the congress is talking about cutting PBS funding so I doubt Dan will get picked up. Which is really too bad as that would be a show to watch!

Hi Mitch,

Speedi sleeves are easy. You need to remove the flange and take it to the shop with you, to make sure you get the correct one, diameter and width.
They come with an installation tool. With a vice to push the sleeve onto the flange the job is easy. NOTE you will need to coat the flange with a non drying sealing compound, such as permatek. You can probably get this at the same time as the sleeve.

Herb

Indeed! I did get confirmation from another MGE member that the speedi-sleeve will be installed on the flange in the location I'm indicating. I'm guessing my flange won't be anywhere near as bad as the one shown in the picture, but I'll be installing one anyway. It was also recommended that I use some compound under the sleeve too - sort of a foundation and/or seal for the sleeve itself against the flange.

Looks like the sleeve I'll need has a sealing surface width of about 5/8 inch so the other key to the install is to push it on the flange far enough so that the oil seal is sealing on the sleeve surface. I don't know the dimensions of the flange as yet since I didn't remove mine, but I'll be sure to measure carefully! Looks like these sleeves can even be had through Amazon for about $35USD.

When I get to it, I'll take pictures as appropriate and post to this thread.

MD

A Speedi-sleeve on the flange at the tail shaft? Okay. I used the sleeve on the crank side. I didn't have wear/tear on my tail shafts on either gearbox, smooth and unscathed as a babies bottom.

I did the PBS special already - it airs tonight at 8 PST, Mr. John Twist is joining me too.

I did plenty of research too on speedi-sleeves. They're not hard to install - just take your time. They arrive with a tuna-type-can install tool which I tapped on with a large rubber mallet. When on smoothly and no leaks since - that over 2,000 miles ago.

My first thought is to have that tail shaft lightly turned on a lathe to smooth it out then put a new seal on, no speedi-sleeve.

To be honest, I don't know that I need a sleeve on the flange. However, I'd rather do belt and suspenders (new seal and sleeve on flange). I plan to tackle this seal with the gearbox in the car - I'll remove the drive shaft and go from there.

Here's a pic showing the leak I currently have from this seal. Oil leaks out of this seal, then runs down the rounded back end of the OD and accumulates on the OD sump plate until it drips off. I hate oil drips! I'm a firm believer that all leaks can be solved. I've had numerous air cooled Porsches and I was able to solve all of the oil line and seal issues on those, and I was proud to have a dry garage floor! I'm not going to let the MG get the better of me in this regard.

MD

PS - that line on the flange that looks like a crack is not a crack. It's just the strongest score line I've ever seen!?

Here's how I removed the nut and replaced the seal.

Here's another couple shots...

Dan, you're MORE than welcome to pop down this way some weekend to do mine (tu)

Removing the seal isn't tough, just patience-made. Once you remove the nut - the seal is ready to come out. It will be "in-there" because of expansion, contraction, though with a little time, nudging with a small flathead, being careful not to scratch the bore, she'll come out! Be brave, take your time. God knows, if I can do it successfully, anyone can! I didn't know a seal from a hole in the ground before last spring.

I learned so much - and it was mainly due to the courage instilled by this place. Once 'on the job' working on the B - I manned up and got'r done! I am quite slow, but I tell you what, I enjoyed every minute of that massive gearbox swap. I encourage all of you to do it! If could have polished the seals, I would have!

Here's what the DPO did to the old seal...in hopes of not trying to replace it...

Feed me healthy food and you gotta deal Louis!

ah shucks... gonna have to stock up on granola and salmon :)-D

but I do have a killer Tilapia-walnut-crusted filet recipe you'd like.... DEAL!

Ha! The DPO attempt to seal the seal with sealant is a good one! I imagine it didn't work.

Can I assume it's safe to order the replacement seal from Moss? (p/n 121-125 for those of us with overdrive)

Mitch

Hi all - Another noob here. I just took off my drive shaft to replace my leaking gearbox. How do I take of the nut, is putting the car in gear enough to stop it from spinning or do I need a special took to loosen the nut?

Thanks!

I'm right in the middle of this mess of a project. The nut was the easy part. 34mm is what I used with air at half-power. Spun right off. Pulling that old seal is where I'm stuck.Bending it all up. Think twice before you start this one if you are dealing with an original metal style seal.

On the diff pinon seal I used a large pair of channel-locks. Not sure that would work on the tail of the tranny. Remember, the tranny housing is MUCH softer metal.

Did you try an oil seal puller? I did my rear axle seals and it really helped. After trying everything with screwdrivers, tapping a screw in the seal and puling it, etc, I went to sears, bought a cheap oil seal puller and it came right out. I'll be pulling the seal shortly, you're one step ahead of me ;-)

I don't have the luxury of an air wrench to loosen the nut, what's the procedure with a torque wrench?

If you are still in the car, I don't think you can get the car high enough to get good torque on it with a breaker bar underneath. I could be wrong. I would guess you could do it if you had enough leverage but I am not sure if the tranny gears would spin or not. Tapping a breaker bar with a hammer while putting force on it might imitate air impact.

I didn't try a puller based on previous posts of this seal breaking those. I have a dent puller that I may fabricate a hook to. I am thinking about drilling a hole in the seal then hooking and pulling it that way. This baby is in there!

What sort of "oil seal puller" did you use? There seem to be at least two main schools of thought:

Slide hammer type:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjCUNXlB2zM

or

Pry-bar, bottle-opener, hook sort of thing

I used the "Pry-bar, bottle-opener, hook sort of thing " - worked well, but it won't help if the seal is too far in, that other oil seal puller looks pretty good.

I think I have enough leverage for the torque wrench. Still not sure if the gears will spin. Anyone?

Well, I'm a man of my word. I dove in today and made it through disassembly! Recall that I'm trying to replace the transmission rear oil seal in the car.

Step 1: unbolt front of driveshaft and get it out of the way. I propped it up with some small blocks of wood. It's 1/2 inch nuts on the drive shaft flange bolts.

Step 2: Tackle the 1-1/8 nut holding the flange. Here you can see the driveshaft is easily tucked up and out of the way.

Step 3: remove the 1-1/8 inch nut. I tried to use a breaker bar with the car in gear but I ended up turning the engine. So to all those who keep asking if they can un-do this nut with the car in gear, my guess is NO.

I ended up using an electric impact wrench. I lucked out and there is a construction crew next door working on my neighbors house and they had the impact wrench and allowed me to use it. With the right tool, it took only a few minutes. Note - I had to remove the handbrake fitting in the tunnel to give some room for the big impact wrench.

Step 4: remove the old oil seal. I did it the manual way by prying it out with an awl and screwdriver. Took about 10-15 minutes. Having done it once now, I suspect I can do it more quickly next time around.

Here's the flange. On my overdrive car, this flange has an OD of about 1.685 - 1.690 inch according to my measurements (just a bit over 1-11/16 inch). The sealing surface is not exactly pristine in my opinion. Looks like speedi-sleeve is going to be the way to go. I may touch it up with 600 wet or dry and finer as necessary to see how it looks.

I'd appreciate any input as to what others think about this sealing surface.

As the saying goes, reassembly is the reverse of removal!

CAn you put up a photo of your seal? Was it the metal style? I'm back after it tonight, bending, pulling, twisting, swearing (just kidding). My nut was a whopping 1-5/16 but I used a loose 34 mm. You are ahead of me.

Here are a couple pics of the old seal. It's a rubber, basically U-shaped seal which is clad with metal on only the OD and outer surface. That means it was metal to metal on the OD to seal!? How the heck was that going to prevent leakage!?!?!?

I caught the spring during removal and that's why it's distorted as shown.

I put those holes at about 6 o'clock then used an awl to pry. Using that technique I was able to withdraw it a bit, then I punched inward on the OD to reduce the diameter sufficient to complete removal.

Having seen videos of the slide-hammer type remover, I have no doubt that would have worked very well in my case.

Here's the other side of the seal. The sealing surface on the ID is very narrow - about 1/8 inch. The sealing surface is a single plane. I sort of expected to see several annular rings that would be sealing on the ID. As for the OD, I just can't imagine a metal to metal seal is the way to go.

BUT WAIT!!! I just got it! I think I am a candidate for neck surgery now!

I realized I was focusing the puller's leverage all on the thin metal exterior. I did not realize I could get a good grab of the inner hole. I'm using the can opener-ice pick style. I leveraged the inner portion a few times and with some swearing (kidding) and praying, it came out. I was putting the force toward the metal exterior which was slowly disappearing on me. If I knew how to post a photo I would show you. This will save someone some big headache.

I'm taking a break for a couple days before I put the new one in becasue I'm old (40).

Hi - I went underneath again as well, hoping to catch up with you guys, but to no avail. My seal does not want to come out. I too use the can-opener/ice pick style but the seal seems stuck. I don't want to damage the axle with the ice-pick so it's hard to get a good grip. Since the trans is in the car, I can only pull vertically, on both sides of the axle.

Eli - Any further suggestions?

Oh, by the way, I was able to take the nut off with a breaker bar, but it was so incredibly loose that I don't even think it qualifies. Not sure how I'm getting the nut on again but we'll see. First this stubborn seal!!

Please - I'm 45! As I always say, I act really immature though!

Here's another pic of my flange. I cleaned/degreased the part and just wiped the sealing surface with fine metal polish on a rag. Perhaps it's not so bad after all?! I'd really like to hear opinions on whether this surface is OK or demands a speedi-sleeve.

MD

You guys are doing grreat work. I have this task ahead of me on my '70 Gt and also my '89 XJ40
Take a look at Dan's first post how he had the flange bolted to an engine plate to lock it from turning while removing the nut. I like that trick Dan.
When you are ready to re tighten the nut you will have to lock the flange so it will not turn, a piece of angle iron to the floor is one way. And dont over torque it, I think a little less than what's called for is ok.
keep up with the progress.
Mike

My seal is a bit more meatier than the one pictured and has a strong metal backer which was used to gain leverage. I had less of a hole to work with which meant a tougher seal. Mine is a 70, likely orignal.

My advice is you will have to get a deeper grab if pulling on the outer jacket is not getting you anywhere. My next step was to drill holes and use a slide-hammer. I have a vice-grip attachment that I was going to fabricate a hook to. Looking back I think an L-hook the the back would work well too.

The key was proper use of the puller. This thing looks like a double-sided mini ice-pick or battle-axe but its about a foot long for leverage. Let the hook grab the back of the seal. When you get a little movement, work a different area. It wants to come out straight but you are working against that somewhat when you pull one edge out too far. I wish I could help you, let me know if you need this tool. I got it at O'Reilly's Auto.

Also, wrap the threads of your output shaft with Duct Tape so you can use them as leverage too against your puller.

What is this video being spoken of?

Hey, Eli (Tinkersdam), how does the sealing surface look on your flange?

I studied mine with a 10x scope under bright light. It's not perfect but it's pretty good. My original thought was to go with a speedi-sleeve, but now I'm wondering. I haven't ordered the sleeve yet; I was going to head to NAPA tomorrow to look into it.

Mitch D

You gotta a deal Lou!

The seals I removed, on from a non-OD, one from an OD, both had rubber on the outer perimeter, not metal. Weird. I replaced with new seals, rubber on the outer and inner surfaces. No wonder the metal seal exterior is so tough to remove, most certainly bonded/rusted a bit, to the aluminum bore. Well - I'm just glad I did mine, out of the car, much easier leverage.

Snap - I'm still stuck on my seal. Like you said, Dan, mine is probably been bonding nicely the last 37 years. I'm thinking I need to drill 4 holes in the seal then put 4 nuts and bolts through it, attached the bolts to a little plate which is stopped by the axle. Then by tightening the bolts, I should be able to "push" out the seal. Questions is, what's directly behind the seal? Is there a little bit of space to put a nut? (1974 - 4 syncro - non-od)

Has anybody used a speedi-sleeve on the input shaft/pinion shaft of the rear axle? I've put in 2 new seals in there, and it still keeps leaking, so I'm guessing the shaft is a bit worn. When I bought the car, there was virtually no oil in the rear axle! So that might have had something to do with it's current state... 8-)

Thanks!

D

Hi all - Just spend a couple hours underneath the car. I was hoping for some success today after some bad days. Just when I thought the seal was coming out, it appeared to be the back of the seal. (by the way, this was after drilling holes in the seal, pulling it with a bolt through the hole, trying to twist/turn the seal by slamming on the bolt, you name it) So now I'm stuck with basically an "empty" seal that's pretty much stuck to the casing. It might be a bit hard to see in the picture but it's basically just the outside of the seal that's stuck to the casing.

Is there any good way in which I can remove it without damaging the casing?

Holy cow! I wonder if something was used to bond that seal to the bore in the tailpiece?

Perhaps try to grab at a piece with needle-nose vise grips and sort of peel away as you go around the circumference. Another thought I have is to again grab with small nose vise grips and see if you can push in towards the center (shaft) to see if you can break lose any part of the seal OD from the bore in the tailpiece.

You really want to avoid contact with the transmission as it's aluminum alloy and will scratch.

Still awaiting my seals from Moss right now. The UPS guy usually delivers between 5-6pm. I'm curious to see what the new seal is like.

MD

Couple thoughts.
1. Mine began to look this way prior to giving loose but most of the internals stayed in place to grab. You may be closer than you think.

2. I would be sure you are using a similar puller as I and try to grab what's left with the hook pulling out from the center. Mine has two different size hooks for different leverage. If your face metal starts to bend, ease up, lightly tap or bend it back into place because you need that metal to hold on to. The more you punch through the fewer and fewer good grabs left.

3. It is best to try to get the seal to come straight out little by little. If you see one edge budge, Stop. Don't be tempted to continue in that location. INstead go to another area and move that a bit, then go to a different area, then back.

4. If that coninues to fail, another option is tapping a flat screwdriver at an angle into whats left of the sidewall "corner" of the seal (if you can get it). The goal being to cave it in from the side comprimising the circle. This will take some beating, use caution if that flathead slips.

5. I did end up causing some cosmetic damage to the very edge of my casing which I may have to smooth out. I was able to avoid any damage to the inner part of the casing which is what you are most concerned about.

6. I also had to use the threads (wrapped in duct tape" for leverage against the puller. Not too much pressure there or could bend the output shaft or scar the threads.

7. I considered heating the unit with a torch but didn't have to do that. Use caution as I think its aluminum.

8. Praying did seem to help.

By the way, the seal puller I used was by Lisle Corporation, Clarinda Iowa, part #56750. I am happy to send it to you if you need it. Keep trying and keep us posted.

Eli

Where would you source a sleeve? I have a relatively new box, but it too leaks out the rear seal. I have it on my list to replace.

I used a speedisleeve on the flywheel side of the crankshaft. There was some significant grooving on the crank so I filled that in with filler, sanded it smooth and installed the sleeve. I would hate to do the job twice, so if there was any question about the condition of the mating surfaces, if it were me I would fill it, let it cure and take some emory paper to it.

The seal is not that hard to remove with the right tool. Get one like this at auto parts stores for about $10.00. It looks simple but it works great..

Hi Gary - Thanks for the tip. Yes it worked great indeed, and I had high hopes, but for me, it only worked on the inner part of the seal, the outside is so incredibly stuck on the aluminum that I have not yet been able to claim my hopefully soon to be victory.

Hi CB,

The only thing I can suggest is to get a thin bladed screwdriver and hammer it in between the casing and the seal edge. This will distort the seal, as in Mitch's photo, above, and it should then come out easily. If you don't go in too deep with the screwdriver the new seal should seal OK. Using a sealant between the seal and the casing is on the cards, but keep in mind that the seal will try to slip out again, until the sealant has set.

Herb

I did not wedge a thin blade between the seal and the casing. I was able to get the seal partly removed and then I pushed in towards the center of the seal to try to reduce it's diameter and thus allow easier removal. I was worried about causing damage to the bore on the transmission.

I did get the new seal last evening - actually two of them. It's entirely rubber with a spring to hold the ID on the shaft (flange).

Aside from a little grease or oil to fit the seal into the transmission, is anyone using any sort of sealant when fitting? Herb mentions the possibility above, is that only for someone with a damaged bore in the transmission tail?

Off to pick up the speedi-sleeve for the flange this morning.

Mitch,

A thin coat of Permatex or silicone around the outside of the seal can't hurt just to help seal any scratches or irregularities. Bear in mind that the transmission oil is not under pressure back there, so there's no particular force trying to push the oil past the seal...

Dick

Probably a wee bit late in this discussion, but if you truly want an education in seals (as much or as little as you like) then go here, http://www.rlhudson.com/Shaft%20Seal%20Book/sample-auto.html and read up. It discusses all the factors that create a good seal - the device and the outcome.

Probably the best site on the internet to explain about seals, installation, and use. FWIW

Interesting article, Bob. I love how the transmission seals are described as having been designed "with shield and flange for easy removal." Bet we have a few members of this forum who would disagree!

I'm stuck waiting for my Speedi-sleeve. NAPA won't have it until 3pm this afternoon. Good thing I took my own micrometer with me because the guy in the store was clueless. All he could ask was "what truck is this for?" Uh...yeah. I settled on P/N 99182 to fit shafts of diameter 1.687-1.6929. My flange measured 1.690 everywhere I measured it. I plan to install the sleeve over a smear of Permatex Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistant RTV silicone gasket maker/sealant.

Guys - Life is good again, the seal is out. Although I had promised myself to not work on it until Saturday so the cuts on my fingers and wrist could heal from banging into the handbrake lever, I could not resist when Eli wrote: "1. Mine began to look this way prior to giving loose but most of the internals stayed in place to grab. You may be closer than you think." I started slamming on a screwdriver with a hammer to free up some seal and grab it with my vice grips to pull it when I saw the seal move for the first time ever. I then got the seal puller and was able to wriggle it outwards. It seriously was a only a 15 minute job. If only I had know yesterday evening....

I was really getting tired from being under the car, getting dirty, the floor's disgusting, the tools are covered with oil, you name it. I'm very glad today I was able to claim victory and clean up the mess. Hats off to you gentlemen who provided advice and comfort during those bad days!

Also, I learned that the hook/ice pick tool might not be the best, Edward suggested this one http://www.harborfreight.com/seal-puller-91352.html which I think might be better and will do less damage to the seal as well as the casing in case you "miss" the seal. Also, I think if I would have started with taking a screwdriver and slamming the seal inward, reducing/breaking the outer diameter, it might have come loose easier. I'm very happy the whole thing is out now. Now going to clean it up and sealing it with a new seal... on Saturday. I don't think I need a speedi-sleeve as the new seal seems to fit pretty tights around the neck of the flange..

Any good recommendations for gearbox oil as well as differential oil (attempting that seal on Saturday...sigh)

Thanks again for the help, all! And since I was able to free up this seal, being a noob, anyone can! (with the help of the forum, that is...

ps. I'm glad my parents sent me on a typing class when I was a kid or this message would have taken me an hour!

All right, Novio! Enjoy a cold beverage to celebrate your success!:)-D

Doing our own work sure makes it obvious why seemingly small repairs (i.e. replace a $5 seal) cost big in the way of labor!

Mitch D

Very Nice Work. I knew you were close, I could smell it, even this far north. What a good feeling, huh? Sometimes just walking away and getting perspective helps. Plus when you saw it move I bet it was like a shark smelling blood in the water. That seal didn't have a chance.

Now you are caught up to me. I was going to do it Friday or Saturday too.

Hi gents, this might be a silly question but which side of the seal goes in first? I assume the side with the spring showing is the back and will face the inside of the transmission, while the front of the seal will face the front (me). Is that correct?

Well done!

I installed the sleeve on the flange this morning. Here are some pics for anyone that is curious. First pic shows my flange after cleanup with 400/600/1200 wet or dry. I was worried that the sealing surface was not good enough due to the pitting. It looked like the bad surface was not where the seal would land, but I didn't want to chance it.

MD

Here's the speedi-sleeve and tool as removed from the package. Before install, I cleaned it well to remove any residual oil/grease and wiped it down with denatured alcohol.

The sleeve is a slight interference fit on the flange. On the inside of the sleeve I smeared a thin film of Permatex Ultra Black maximum oil resistance RTV silicone. The instructions with the sleeve recommend a non-hardening sealant if your shaft is not deeply scored. If you have deep gouges that require fill, they recommend a metal epoxy type filler (e.g. JB weld?) and you would then install the sleeve before the filler hardens.

Using a rubber mallet, I then pounded gently on the install tool to push the sleeve onto the flange. I didn't drive it all the way home, there's about 0.5mm of space. Using my eye, I just pushed the sleeve on the flange until it was at the very edge of the chamfer. The oil seal seems to ride pretty near the edge of the flange sealing surface on my car, so I didn't want to risk pushing the sleeve on too far. I will simply leave the sleeve's flange in place. You can keep it or remove it at your discretion. Since it won't interfere with the oil seal or anything else, I'm just going to leave it in place. No worries about leaking between the flange and the seal now - that sealing surface is perfect.

Very impressive. Reminds me of the Speedi-sleeve I put on the crank surface. They are a very helpful appliance to have. I would clean, polish and then seal (with a clear coat) the rest of the flange surface as well. Although it'll never cause enough rust to damage the flange, might-as-well, whilst you're there!

Time for a beverage now that the work is complete!

New seal went in without problem. There were a couple small scratches in the bore of the transmission so I applied a small amount of the same permatex. I also applied a little grease to the newly installed sleeve on the flange and a smear on the id of the oil seal too. Like others showed here on the forum, I used a small PVC coupler with the appropriate diameter to drive the seal into place by tapping with a hammer.

Everything went back together without incident.

Here's the new seal installed so that is was flush with the tailpiece.

Bolted on the flange, reinstalled the e-brake fitting, and finally bolted up the driveshaft with new 5/16-24 nyloc nuts.

I'll wait until tomorrow to add the oil to the gearbox (3.5 qts of 20/50 engine oil). I want to give the Permatex time to cure.

You would not believe the condition of the underside metal when I remove the oil/grease/dirt! It's like brand new. I wonder though - did the factory not apply finish paint to the underside? My car is Aqua but all the underside metal is a pale green color. Is that primer?

Now, on to the next project.

You should be quite proud of your good accomplishment! Nice work!

Nice work, Mitch. (tu)

Did you install the drive shaft with the u-joints "in phase?"

Dick

I'm going to look at mine now, printed the jpg you attached, thanks. Last year when I added an OD, I had my driveline apart of course, from the tailshaft of the gearbox and I know I spun it various times, before reinstall. If the joints were out of phase, (reminds me of what they might say on Star Trek)...would one feel vibration whilst driving? Or, would the "out of phasing" wear out the joints or worse, cause a catastrophic failure? Do advise.

Dan,

Driveshaft phasing is important because, when u-joints operate through an angle (but not when the driveshaft is perfectly straight), they actually speed up, slow down, speed up, slow down, every ninety degrees. So there's an inherent vibration. When u-joints are in phase, the second joint cancels out the oscillations of the first. So the primary concern in aligning u-joints is vibration. Ultimately, of course, vibration can lead to accelerated wear.

In many/most rear wheel drive cars, the u-joint yokes are welded onto the drive shaft so the phasing is fixed. However in ours, and other, LBCs, the front u-joint joke is attached to the transmission output shaft. So it is important, when reassembling the front drive shaft splines into the yoke, that the u-joints are properly aligned per the illustration.

Dick

That would only be a concern if you removed the sliding yoke. You cannot change phasing otherwise.

I think we're saying the same thing, Gary. When you pull the front of the drive shaft out of the front yoke, it is possible to reinstall it in one of many different ways. So you need to orient the drive shaft rear yoke before inserting the front of the drive shaft into the yoke that's attached to the transmission mainshaft.

Dick

Got mine done today too guys. Quite an ordeal but only because of removal. Instal was a snap. Thanks to everyone that helped.

Eli

Gary was right when he said I would only have my drive shaft yokes out of phase if I took it apart at the sliding piece. I didn't. However, when I examined the yokes I noticed they were NOT in phase. So, Dick's comments to check the situation resulted in another bit of work.

So, I took the drive shaft all the way out (front and back), cleaned everything up, degreased, applied new grease, reassembled in phase and bolted back front and rear. Now it's correct. No telling how long it was incorrect. While things were out I also greased up the u-joints and made sure they were articulating correctly. Everything is correct now. I just filled the transmission with 3.5 qts 20-50 and after cleaning up for a few minutes I'm off for a test drive!

MD

Now I declare this seal replacement complete. Drove about 12 miles up to about 50mph. Close inspection after the drive shows the seal to be holding well. Not a drip in sight!

Only one more oil leak to solve and that's the main seal at the back of the engine. Only way to get that one is to remove engine and trans. The plan is to get that one when I have her out for paint.

That's the last of the oil leaks I can solve without major disassembly. So far I solved the following leaks:

1) OD sump plate, solenoid plate, and pressure relief plug
2) Front side plate on engine (did both front and rear)
3) Transmission rear seal

With oil pushing $5 a quart, it's worth keeping all of it in the car!

ATTABOY, MITCH!!! (tu)

Dick

Great work. Well I thought I was done until I read about being out of phase. Although I did not pull mine apart, I now observe it has been out of phase all this time. I guess it comes off again, otherwise mine is holding too. Thanks for the driveline info.

Eli

Hi friends - Mine is in now too, thanks for the help indeed. I tried tightening the nut but I need to find a way to prevent the flange from spinning. I tried a couple things but it didn't work.

Mitch/Eli - How did you guys do it as I assume you both had the trans in the car, just like me.

I was thinking of getting two pieces of wood, drill holes for the bolts and place the wood horizontally over two bolts.

any other suggestions?

A long piece of angle iron will work.

Thanks. I opened my Haynes manual and accidentally found a picture for the L-shaped piece of iron to hold the flange. I was looking at how to replace the transmission mounts and found the picture by accident. It's the first couple pages of the gearbox chapter....

Thanks!

Good Job CJ. I hit mine with air little over 150lbs but I don't have the overdrive. I saw another post of a guy who borrowed an electric impact gun which may be an option. I also heard you can get a partner to hold the crank nut with a wrench.

So who's next to try this daring stunt we all just pulled off?

Hey all. One more thing. Make sure your tranny is NOT OVERFILLED. Even after replacing my seal and leaking a bunch out the back, mine was reading slightly over full after my project was done. This means the full mark puts the fluid level just BELOW the seal when level. An over-full tranny case encourages fluid to leak out the back. But a properly filled case will make the fluid ride slightly below your seal line (as far as my experience here has shown).

Not sure if I'll be next, but will be doing that when I put my ODs in - both rear gearbox and rear engine seals. Thanks for this post and the pics! I've saved it for future reference!

Just to close out my participation on this thread, thank you all for your contributions. I replaced the rear oil seal in less than 20 minutes. I had a bar I had made that uses the tail shaft to drive shaft bolts and the ground as leverage. The seal just popped out with a little help from a flathead screwdriver and the new one in immediately after wiping everything down.

Done, no leaks and checked off the list.

Thanks again.

It is difficult to answer your question about the sealing surface from pictures. A much better indication is to run your fingernail over the area. Can you feel any ridge or roughness? If so, then you need a sleeve. I'm guess that you won't need one.

I don't actually think there is much oil at that part of the transmission, BTW. I.e., it isn't as if there is a pool of oil right up against the seal. Obviously some oil makes it back that far (to lubricate the bearing), but it isn't immersed in oil (I don't think).

GREAT THREAD, THANKS.

What size / part number for the speedi sleeve ?

This is on my "to Do" list but I have to order in ALL my parts from abroad so better to order one before I even pick up a spanner.

Thanks,
Richard B.

BUMP

Can anybody help me with the size ?
Its a 4 speed syncro, this post has details/ sizes for an overdrive but the non OD model uses a different seal so I assume the diameter is different.

Please can anybody help, otherwise I'll be off the road for a couple of weeks to strip down, measure then ship in parts.

Cheers,
Richard B.

Hi MGE,

Thanks to everybody for the top tips here, my turn on the gearbox seal last night so time for some feedback.

Firstly my car is a 1971-72, 4 speed NON overdrive.

My comments / learning points for others.
- I had to remove the drive shaft, the space forward of the flange is not enough to allow the bolts to come out.
- Used a rattle gun to get the nut off, very easy, just make sure you have the right size 1-5/16".
- Pulled the seal with a big slide hammer.
- Speedi Sleeve for me would be 1.561-1.567

I had a Slight groove, visible but could not feel.


Planned on using a speedi-sleeve but the one I ordered was wrong size (the one earlier in this post is an overdrive).


1.561-1.567" would be the right size but mind 5 minutes with some 800 grit and came up okay.
Anybody want the unused speedi-sleeve ?

Main problem was the seal, FTFF !


Thanks to this thread I know these are know to be a pain to remove firstly tried with a seal hook, but it ripped right through.
So out with my new favourite toy ! Big slide hammer set, so just drive a screw into the seal and then out it came.


CB feel your pain, without slide hammer this would have been a right PIA.

Then just box it all back up and job done.


More pics etc on my blog.
http://diary-of-mgb.blogspot.com/2011/10/that-seals-it.html

Comments, questions and abuse welcome as always.

Cheers,
Richard B.

i said it before, but i bears repeating... i hope Skye has backups for all the posts. Sure would hate the learning curve on repairing/maintaining/improving my B if i didn't have this site!

there's a gold mine of info here that would make a good book or two... trick would be the mining and organizing thereof.

frank

I can understand using and the justification, for cost for a speedi-sleeve on the O/D rear flange because they are very rare item to find loose. Can't justify cost with non O/D flange, because there in a lot of owners gearbox junk boxes. Just ask the site, and most likely someone will have one in good shape.