MGB & GT Forum
ignition switch
Posted by 9620
Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 16, 2014 07:18 PM
Joined 10 years ago
13 Posts
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I'm 6 months into my first mgb(1979) ownership. got it to weekend driver status and have gotten plenty of help from older owners here. the key goes into the ignition sw with difficulty and removal is the same. question: should I replace just the sw or the whole sw/lock assembly. is this an unusual or common problem. thanks in advance for any advice or experience with this issue
Apr 16, 2014 08:45 PM
Joined 10 years ago
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Apr 17, 2014 02:05 AM
Joined 10 years ago
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Apr 17, 2014 03:07 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 12 years ago
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Apr 17, 2014 06:04 AM
Joined 15 years ago
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Hi Dave:
My experience is same as Dennis'. Original lock cylinder was sticky. First tried a replacement cylinder only and then a complete switch and new keys. Problem is, if anything, worse now.
I drilled out the shear bolts on an '80 without much trouble with column in place, but it took hours to get the steering wheel loose.
1980 MGB
Dual HS-4s with K&N air filters
10-circuit blade type fuse panel
Schlemmer distributor with Pertronix ignition
Energy Suspension poly bushings
Black Label OD transmission
Mr. Mike's Fiero seats
Delta D9 cam
12H2923 head with dual springs
My experience is same as Dennis'. Original lock cylinder was sticky. First tried a replacement cylinder only and then a complete switch and new keys. Problem is, if anything, worse now.
I drilled out the shear bolts on an '80 without much trouble with column in place, but it took hours to get the steering wheel loose.
1980 MGB
Dual HS-4s with K&N air filters
10-circuit blade type fuse panel
Schlemmer distributor with Pertronix ignition
Energy Suspension poly bushings
Black Label OD transmission
Mr. Mike's Fiero seats
Delta D9 cam
12H2923 head with dual springs
Apr 17, 2014 12:57 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 12 years ago
19,528 Posts
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Apr 17, 2014 01:17 PM
Joined 15 years ago
837 Posts
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I've had several people point that out to me, both before and after installing the switch. On my car, even after removing the wheel, it was necessary to loosen the column bolts to drop the column a bit to remove the cowl. I guess you're saying that you can flex the cowl enough to slip the edge under the rim of the steering wheel?
That certainly would have been easier than making up the contraption I did to pull the wheel without mounts for a puller.
1980 MGB
Dual HS-4s with K&N air filters
10-circuit blade type fuse panel
Schlemmer distributor with Pertronix ignition
Energy Suspension poly bushings
Black Label OD transmission
Mr. Mike's Fiero seats
Delta D9 cam
12H2923 head with dual springs
That certainly would have been easier than making up the contraption I did to pull the wheel without mounts for a puller.
1980 MGB
Dual HS-4s with K&N air filters
10-circuit blade type fuse panel
Schlemmer distributor with Pertronix ignition
Energy Suspension poly bushings
Black Label OD transmission
Mr. Mike's Fiero seats
Delta D9 cam
12H2923 head with dual springs
Apr 17, 2014 01:40 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 12 years ago
19,528 Posts
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RollyTG
Roland G
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Apr 17, 2014 01:40 PM
Joined 10 years ago
259 Posts
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I replaced my steering lock/ignition switch just a few days ago. It is probably easier if you drop the column down but I managed it without doing so. Following advice from fellow members I took out the shear bolts by cutting a slot in the top with a cutting disc on my drill. Doesn't matter if you cut the lock clamp piece, because you throw that away. Make a good deep cut and get a good, big screwdriver on and it should come out easily. Getting the cowl off and back on again requires a fair bit of juggling. It might look impossible but persist. I held the two halves together with tape to make putting the screws in easier. Mine ignition/lock came from the B-Hive. Works great. You don't have to shear off the bolts, the cowl fits over them OK.
Steve D.
Stephen Donnelly
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Apr 17, 2014 01:40 PM
Joined 14 years ago
586 Posts
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The job is not that hard. I did take off my steering wheel, but it just was a matter of taking off 6 bolts and left the hub on. The cowl was flexible enough to remove without disturbing the column. To remove the bolts use a Dremel with a cutting disc and cut some slots into the bolts and use a screwdriver and the bolts will just unscrew. I may not have had to remove the wheel, but it does give you more to work. Remove the switch, but leave the wires connected. Replace the new switch and then switch wires one at a time. It is not that hard.
Apr 17, 2014 02:14 PM
Joined 12 years ago
2,558 Posts
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Apr 17, 2014 10:01 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 14 years ago
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My first new switch/lock was a generic. Key was hard to get in/out from very beginning; switch broke apart a few months later.
I bought a new Lucas brand switch/lock. Looks just like the generic except for Lucas marking. But, it works much, much better - key very smooth and I can feel the various detents as I rotate the key.
Spend the extra few buck and get the Lucas.
Pogo is right.
—————————————————————-
The power of reasons is an illusion. The belief will not change when the reasons are defeated. The causality is reversed. People believe the reasons because they believe in the conclusion.
I bought a new Lucas brand switch/lock. Looks just like the generic except for Lucas marking. But, it works much, much better - key very smooth and I can feel the various detents as I rotate the key.
Spend the extra few buck and get the Lucas.
Pogo is right.
—————————————————————-
The power of reasons is an illusion. The belief will not change when the reasons are defeated. The causality is reversed. People believe the reasons because they believe in the conclusion.
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