MG Engine Swaps Forum

I'm doing a Ford 302 conversion in a 77 MGB. I have followed several posts about wiring harnesses and gauges and still am a little perplexed as far as what route I should take. It appears that most agree the Advance Auto-Wire is the best as apposed to Painless, EZ, American Auto Wire, and others but the price is pretty steep. More than double than some. I want to do this right and from what I have read Dan Masters has put a lot of effort into developing his product and specifically adapted to our cars. I guess I'm talking myself into it but is it really worth the difference in price? Of course you all know what happens to the budget when we get into these things.

Also the gauges. With the Ford motor and the T5 transmission, is there any way to use the original gauges without a lot of modification? I understand the speedo is a big issue but I have read one thread where D&D or one of the other suppliers may have a modification that can be used with the T5. I have looked at the Speed Hut Revolution gauges, but again a big hit to the budget.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I really didn't have much trouble using the MG speedometer or gages in my 79 2.3 EFI DOHC turbo/T5 combo. I replaced the speedometer cable with a Ford unit and it all works with the appropriate speedometer drive gears. The cable may break rapidly as it is a pretty sharp turn into the trans. I've only got about 500 miles on mine and its fine so far.

Speaking of speedometer drive gears....I STRONGLY suggest you replace the main shaft speedometer drive gear before you install the transmission. The MGB's 3.9 ratio rear and small rolling diameter tires make it difficult to find a robust driven gear for proper calibration. Make sure you put a 6 tooth gear on the mainshaft. That will allow you to use either a 20 or 21 tooth driven gear. Most T5 came from the factory with either a 7 or 8 tooth main gear. Late Model Restoration has the 6 tooth gears.

Oil pressure gage is mechanical on a 77 so you just need to work out the fittings. The water temperature sender is the same, just find the correct fitting. I also strongly recommend replacing the original voltage stabilizer with a modern solid state stabilizer. The gages read a lot better after you do that.

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1979 MGB Folvo 2.3 Ford Turbo Block, Volvo B234 16V DOHC head, T3 Turbo, Megasquirt

Gauges.

$1,500 to $2,000 to properly restore your original gauges. Most likely less than $800 for the speed hut gauges built to your specs. If your running any 1968-76 dashboard you can get Dolphin gauges for less than half price again but there are few options. For the price, not a bad product.


Wiring.

We have used AAW wiring previously in our shop and Dan and Steve have a good product. So you want to be talked into running that? Call me and ask me what our wiring loom prices are and what they do. They have more standard features/options but the price is more than AAW. We really haven't put these out to the general market yet but only sold to guys that have called in so unless people read the one or two threads I have mentioned these on, most people don't know we even offer them. Going back to what's available, I recommend staying away from the cheap ones as they really do not have the options that should be had in a driver.

-BMC.

Killer B has speedo cables for T5 to stock gauges. I use the 7 tooth drive gear with a 20 tooth driven gear. No problems but tire diameter might make the 6 tooth a better choice.

Thanks guys. I know AAW is the best route, it's just a hit to the budget but I know it will be better in the long run.
The gauges I need to work on. There seem to be a few options so I guess I need to do more research. Again,
trying to massage the budget and find what works. I have the yellow 7 tooth gear in the trans and really don't
want to pull it. I'll go GPS before I go that route. The PO didn't have a speed sensor in it either, just an open hole
when I got it. Don't know what he did before. If I mix and match old and new gauges I of course want them to look
close enough alike. I think I may have found some possibilities so we will see.
I'll post what I find. Thanks

Duke,

Here's what I did. I bit the bullet and went with the AAW kit. I am very happy I did. Their stuff is top quality and it was easy to follow the directions and get it right even though this was only the second car I have rewired.

As for gauges I opted for all new gauges for a couple of reasons the most important being price. I kept my eye out for deals at Summit and came across SUN-PRO gauges that Summit was offering at $3.00 a piece so I bought the oil, water and volt gauges. Hookup was very easy. The oil & water gauges are mechanical. I also bought a SUN-PRO tach from them that I think was $15 or $16. I did not want to use the MGB water temp gauge because it is designed for an engine that runs at about 185 degrees so that is where the "N" is designed for. My 3.4 V6 runs at about 210 degrees so it would always appear the engine is running hot and if it ever was running hot I would not know it.

I do not have a speedo yet but will go with a GPS speedo when I think I need to run by mph instead of tach.

So the bottom line is you can get a way with inexpensive gauges that work and keep a few bucks in your pocket for gas.

Thanks for the info Gerald.
I'm ordering the AAW kit today. I haven't decided on the gauges but I'll check out Summit.