T-Series & Prewar Forum
Voltage regulator / Generator help needed
Posted by Tim66
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Oct 27, 2016 04:20 PM
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In the early stage of checking the generator and voltage regulator, not wiring the car yet. I've connected the generator, fuel pump, coil, ground, ignition and ammeter to the regulator, no lights horn, ect. When I rev the engine the voltage going to the battery continues to climb up to 16 volts and higher at wot. That seems excessive to me. The second problem is when I turn on the ignition key the fuel pump starts and current flows to the coil but when I turn off the ignition the engine continues to run. I realize this could be a complicated problem but I thought someone might have a simple solution. Thanks
Tim
TD12524
Tim
TD12524
RichardM7908
Richard Michell
Dee Why, NSW, Australia
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Oct 28, 2016 02:36 AM
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Topic Creator (OP)
Oct 28, 2016 06:24 AM
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RichardM7908
Richard Michell
Dee Why, NSW, Australia
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Oct 28, 2016 06:59 AM
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I may be misdirecting you. It is possible, with the wrong resistance through that circuit, for the ignition to be kept active after the switch is off (AMHIK). But if you have no connection at all, that cannot be the feedback loop. Must be somewhere else in how you have connected things.
Topic Creator (OP)
Oct 28, 2016 08:48 AM
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Oct 28, 2016 04:27 PM
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If you are still getting the 16V at the battery, that sounds like an issue of mal-adjusted regulator. The workshop manual has a decent section on how to adjust this. I have had better luck with old analog voltmeters for this job, as the regulator essentially just chatters, connecting and disconnecting the generator to the battery to provide an "average" correct voltage. The chatter seems to confuse my digital meters.
Topic Creator (OP)
Oct 28, 2016 04:42 PM
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In reply to # 3383319 by Robert H
If you are still getting the 16V at the battery, that sounds like an issue of mal-adjusted regulator. The workshop manual has a decent section on how to adjust this. I have had better luck with old analog voltmeters for this job, as the regulator essentially just chatters, connecting and disconnecting the generator to the battery to provide an "average" correct voltage. The chatter seems to confuse my digital meters.
Robert, I adjusted my regulator using the workshop manual and now max out at 15.5 volts. Amazing how much you learn from problems rather than successes.
Tim
Robocam
Blair Robson
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Oct 30, 2016 07:35 PM
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Hi Guys
Both TD & TF use LUCAS compensated voltage regulators The correct way to set these is to disconnect the regulator from the the battery and set the correct 16v voltage on open circuit
This usually achieved by placing an insulated material between the cutout contacts so that as the voltage rises it will not connect to the battery. The voltage can then be set to the correct 16V open circuit.
This assumes that the regulator in in good condition. When any load is drawn from the electrical system the regulator automatically adjusts out put to protect the generator.
Hope this helps
Blair
Both TD & TF use LUCAS compensated voltage regulators The correct way to set these is to disconnect the regulator from the the battery and set the correct 16v voltage on open circuit
This usually achieved by placing an insulated material between the cutout contacts so that as the voltage rises it will not connect to the battery. The voltage can then be set to the correct 16V open circuit.
This assumes that the regulator in in good condition. When any load is drawn from the electrical system the regulator automatically adjusts out put to protect the generator.
Hope this helps
Blair
RichardM7908
Richard Michell
Dee Why, NSW, Australia
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Oct 30, 2016 08:54 PM
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Sarastro
Steve Maas
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Oct 31, 2016 11:05 PM
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The high system voltage is almost certainly caused by a bad voltage regulator--the regulator relay seems not to be working.
As for the car continuing to run when the ignition is turned off--have you added a relay for the power switched by the ignition switch? If so, the relay coil is staying energized by the generator, via the ignition lamp. If not, the ignition still could be powered through the lamp, but it seems unlikely. You'd have to have an incorrect bulb, one rated for much higher power than the correct one. Are you sure that power is being turned off at the ignition coil when you turn off the ignition? It might be just that simple.
As for the car continuing to run when the ignition is turned off--have you added a relay for the power switched by the ignition switch? If so, the relay coil is staying energized by the generator, via the ignition lamp. If not, the ignition still could be powered through the lamp, but it seems unlikely. You'd have to have an incorrect bulb, one rated for much higher power than the correct one. Are you sure that power is being turned off at the ignition coil when you turn off the ignition? It might be just that simple.
Topic Creator (OP)
Nov 1, 2016 12:30 AM
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In reply to # 3385446 by Sarastro
The high system voltage is almost certainly caused by a bad voltage regulator--the regulator relay seems not to be working.
As for the car continuing to run when the ignition is turned off--have you added a relay for the power switched by the ignition switch? If so, the relay coil is staying energized by the generator, via the ignition lamp. If not, the ignition still could be powered through the lamp, but it seems unlikely. You'd have to have an incorrect bulb, one rated for much higher power than the correct one. Are you sure that power is being turned off at the ignition coil when you turn off the ignition? It might be just that simple.
As for the car continuing to run when the ignition is turned off--have you added a relay for the power switched by the ignition switch? If so, the relay coil is staying energized by the generator, via the ignition lamp. If not, the ignition still could be powered through the lamp, but it seems unlikely. You'd have to have an incorrect bulb, one rated for much higher power than the correct one. Are you sure that power is being turned off at the ignition coil when you turn off the ignition? It might be just that simple.
Steve, thanks for the input. I adjusted the regulator per the manual and the voltage is fine now. I added the ignition warning light to the circuit and the engine now shuts of with the ignition switch.
Tim
TD12524
Robocam
Blair Robson
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Nov 1, 2016 05:08 PM
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Hi Richard
It is terrific to see the old Lucas test manuals they are worth their weight in gold for identifying checking and adjusting all the 2 & 3 bobbin Regs which are in my opinion a very reliable and simple systems These pamphlets and data were only given to Authorized agents here and if you were lucky a Lucas rep would manage to get you the odd extra tech info if not available by OEM w/shop manuals. Good to see this is available for all to have access to
Cheers
It is terrific to see the old Lucas test manuals they are worth their weight in gold for identifying checking and adjusting all the 2 & 3 bobbin Regs which are in my opinion a very reliable and simple systems These pamphlets and data were only given to Authorized agents here and if you were lucky a Lucas rep would manage to get you the odd extra tech info if not available by OEM w/shop manuals. Good to see this is available for all to have access to
Cheers
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