MGB & GT Forum
To add "Thunk" to my doors
Posted by melbaver
Topic Creator (OP)
Dec 17, 2014 11:04 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 16 years ago
15,310 Posts
|
Do I put sound deadener (dynamat-like) on all of the doorskin, or just part of it? Do I also repeat this on the inside of the door panel?
Chris Howells
1968 MGB Purchased already dis-assembled but which is largely back together so I'm a lot less ignorant.
Chris Howells
1968 MGB Purchased already dis-assembled but which is largely back together so I'm a lot less ignorant.
Dec 17, 2014 11:12 PM
Joined 10 years ago
212 Posts
|
It depends on how quiet you want to make it. I will be lining to door skin and the inside face, as well as putting an adhesive backed thin foam on the door right behind the door cards. I've done that to all of my other vehicles, and the noise level drops significantly. I did it for better audio quality, no other real reason to do it, especially in an MG.
Dec 18, 2014 01:30 AM
Joined 10 years ago
212 Posts
|
Dec 18, 2014 02:16 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 13 years ago
32,650 Posts
|
What you using? I only used one tile centralised on the inner skin. I'll know if it thunks next week when we 'fix' the doors ie gap and latches.
Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Lots more as I did a nut and bolt rebuild; finished 2015. Tartan Red.
GT: December '78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances. Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators & Mk1 rear lights. 'Worked' Rover V8 with Monsoon ECU for EFI. GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.
Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Lots more as I did a nut and bolt rebuild; finished 2015. Tartan Red.
GT: December '78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances. Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators & Mk1 rear lights. 'Worked' Rover V8 with Monsoon ECU for EFI. GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.
Dec 18, 2014 02:45 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 12 years ago
19,528 Posts
|
This is what can be achieved with proper sound deadening.
OK it's a GT but the principal is the same. There is a proper sound deadening pad covering most of the inside of the door skin.
Door slamming is one of my pet hates and properly fitted and adjusted no door should need any more effort than this.
OK it's a GT but the principal is the same. There is a proper sound deadening pad covering most of the inside of the door skin.
Door slamming is one of my pet hates and properly fitted and adjusted no door should need any more effort than this.
Dec 18, 2014 02:51 AM
Joined 9 years ago
1,442 Posts
|
I asked this question when I was working in Cowley on the MGRV8 and also Rover 800. I'd just re-skinned the doors on my BGT and they sounded like the lid being put on a metal dustbin at the time. The trick is to add a panel that's made of lead and bitumen to the centre of the door panel. The sheets are about 1' by 1' and were originally applied before paint - they melted to the panel in the paint drying ovens. The car repair equivalents are self adhesive / magnetic. I fitted them to my doors and I get a satisfying thunk when they close.
trewjohn2001
John Trew
|
Dec 18, 2014 02:53 AM
Joined 13 years ago
1,058 Posts
|
Dec 18, 2014 03:54 AM
Joined 9 years ago
198 Posts
|
Hmmm, got the clunk by adding the bitumen stick on pads, try achieving that kind of door close with a works hard top and all new after market door seals and new door cards...oh, and a new heritage shell too...not happening!
Ian
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-12-18 03:55 AM by ian2988.
Ian
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-12-18 03:55 AM by ian2988.
trewjohn2001
John Trew
|
Dec 18, 2014 04:21 AM
Joined 13 years ago
1,058 Posts
|
In reply to # 2875209 by ian2988
Hmmm, got the clunk by adding the bitumen stick on pads, try achieving that kind of door close with a works hard top and all new after market door seals and new door cards...oh, and a new heritage shell too...not happening!
Ian
Ian
I have the same problem Ian - the fur flex seals are too wide and dont compress much when you try to close the door.
Dec 18, 2014 05:02 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 12 years ago
19,528 Posts
|
In reply to # 2875201 by trewjohn2001
Ernie what door seals does the GT have?
Basic rubber and this is all the pressure it takes to close it.
It takes a lot of time and effort to get a door to fit and close like this !
Dec 18, 2014 05:18 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 13 years ago
32,650 Posts
|
Thanks a lot Ernie - you've set my bodyman a challenge to live up to!
Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Lots more as I did a nut and bolt rebuild; finished 2015. Tartan Red.
GT: December '78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances. Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators & Mk1 rear lights. 'Worked' Rover V8 with Monsoon ECU for EFI. GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.
Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Lots more as I did a nut and bolt rebuild; finished 2015. Tartan Red.
GT: December '78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances. Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators & Mk1 rear lights. 'Worked' Rover V8 with Monsoon ECU for EFI. GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.
trewjohn2001
John Trew
|
Dec 18, 2014 11:10 AM
Joined 13 years ago
1,058 Posts
|
Dec 18, 2014 01:59 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 12 years ago
19,528 Posts
|
Forums
Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster