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To add "Thunk" to my doors

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melbaver Avatar
melbaver Gold Member Chris Howells
Carrington, NSW, Australia   AUS
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1968 MG MGB "Moneypit"
2012 Dodge Journey "Another Shopping Trolley"
Do I put sound deadener (dynamat-like) on all of the doorskin, or just part of it? Do I also repeat this on the inside of the door panel?



Chris Howells

1968 MGB Purchased already dis-assembled but which is largely back together so I'm a lot less ignorant.

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Can0802 Norm M
Visalia, CA, USA   USA
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1969 MG MGB "Victoria"
It depends on how quiet you want to make it. I will be lining to door skin and the inside face, as well as putting an adhesive backed thin foam on the door right behind the door cards. I've done that to all of my other vehicles, and the noise level drops significantly. I did it for better audio quality, no other real reason to do it, especially in an MG.

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melbaver Avatar
melbaver Gold Member Chris Howells
Carrington, NSW, Australia   AUS
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1968 MG MGB "Moneypit"
2012 Dodge Journey "Another Shopping Trolley"
Not so much worried about sound insulation, just want to hear a satisfying thunk when I close the door, not a tinny noise.



Chris Howells

1968 MGB Purchased already dis-assembled but which is largely back together so I'm a lot less ignorant.

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Can0802 Norm M
Visalia, CA, USA   USA
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1969 MG MGB "Victoria"
I'd say a layer on the skin and another layer on the inner door, and you should easily achieve what you're looking for.

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MGB567 Avatar
MGB567 Barrie Braxton
Ninderry, KabiKabi country, Queensland, Australia   AUS
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1966 MG MGB MkI "Money Guzzler"
1979 MG MGB GT V8 Conversion "Darkside"
What you using? I only used one tile centralised on the inner skin. I'll know if it thunks next week when we 'fix' the doors ie gap and latches.



Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Lots more as I did a nut and bolt rebuild; finished 2015. Tartan Red.

GT: December '78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances. Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators & Mk1 rear lights. 'Worked' Rover V8 with Monsoon ECU for EFI. GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.

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ErnieY Avatar
ErnieY Ernie Y
Albatera, Alicante, Spain   ESP
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This is what can be achieved with proper sound deadening.

OK it's a GT but the principal is the same. There is a proper sound deadening pad covering most of the inside of the door skin.

Door slamming is one of my pet hates and properly fitted and adjusted no door should need any more effort than this.


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Chalky Avatar
Chalky David White
Coventry, Warwickshire, UK   GBR
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I asked this question when I was working in Cowley on the MGRV8 and also Rover 800. I'd just re-skinned the doors on my BGT and they sounded like the lid being put on a metal dustbin at the time. The trick is to add a panel that's made of lead and bitumen to the centre of the door panel. The sheets are about 1' by 1' and were originally applied before paint - they melted to the panel in the paint drying ovens. The car repair equivalents are self adhesive / magnetic. I fitted them to my doors and I get a satisfying thunk when they close.

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trewjohn2001 Avatar
trewjohn2001 John Trew
Dorset, Poole, UK   GBR
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Ernie what door seals does the GT have?

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ian2988 Avatar
ian2988 ian jackson
stoke on trent, Staffordshire, UK   GBR
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1952 MG TD
1965 Mini Cooper S
1968 MG MGB
1968 MG MGB
Hmmm, got the clunk by adding the bitumen stick on pads, try achieving that kind of door close with a works hard top and all new after market door seals and new door cards...oh, and a new heritage shell too...not happening!
Ian



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-12-18 03:55 AM by ian2988.

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trewjohn2001 Avatar
trewjohn2001 John Trew
Dorset, Poole, UK   GBR
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In reply to # 2875209 by ian2988 Hmmm, got the clunk by adding the bitumen stick on pads, try achieving that kind of door close with a works hard top and all new after market door seals and new door cards...oh, and a new heritage shell too...not happening!
Ian

I have the same problem Ian - the fur flex seals are too wide and dont compress much when you try to close the door.

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ErnieY Avatar
ErnieY Ernie Y
Albatera, Alicante, Spain   ESP
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In reply to # 2875201 by trewjohn2001 Ernie what door seals does the GT have?
Basic rubber and this is all the pressure it takes to close it.

It takes a lot of time and effort to get a door to fit and close like this !



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Img_4934.jpg    30.1 KB
Img_4934.jpg

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MGB567 Avatar
MGB567 Barrie Braxton
Ninderry, KabiKabi country, Queensland, Australia   AUS
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1966 MG MGB MkI "Money Guzzler"
1979 MG MGB GT V8 Conversion "Darkside"
Thanks a lot Ernie - you've set my bodyman a challenge to live up to!



Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Lots more as I did a nut and bolt rebuild; finished 2015. Tartan Red.

GT: December '78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances. Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators & Mk1 rear lights. 'Worked' Rover V8 with Monsoon ECU for EFI. GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.

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trewjohn2001 Avatar
trewjohn2001 John Trew
Dorset, Poole, UK   GBR
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Thanks Ernie. My doors close and fit nicely without the seal. Has anyone tried the Moss nylon seals for the later model GT's? MGOC also list a moulded seal for the later models could be worth a shot too.

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200mph Avatar
200mph Platinum Member Mike Joy
Winston-Salem, NC, USA   USA
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A 6x6 piece of sound insulation glued to the inside center of the outer door panel should do the job.



to paraphrase Mark Twain:

. . . . . "I never learned anything when I was typing! . . . . . MG

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ErnieY Avatar
ErnieY Ernie Y
Albatera, Alicante, Spain   ESP
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Mine cover virtually the whole of the inside from chrome strip level down and I can't see 6x6 doing the same job.

It might inhibit drumming but not much else.

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