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TC Bulkhead to body assembly...

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EricTharg Charlie B
Peterborough, Cambs, UK   GBR
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I'm at the stage in my TC rebuild where the rolling chassis is pretty much complete, and I'm starting to plan first fit of my (new) body tub onto the chassis. I am not sure of the best way / time to fit the bulkhead to the body tub.
Best plan to me seems to be that I offer up the body to the chassis, then position the bulkhead between the tub and the bulkhead mounting feet (only loosely bolted on at this point), before drilling the mounting holes in the tub? Or do I need to have the bonnet sides in place to ensure the correct fore / aft position for the tub and then if necessary slot the holes in the bulkhead feet to suit?
Any advice welcome from those who have been through this...

One further question on paint. Plan to paint the car myself in cellulose. Mike Sherrell suggests in his book that I'll need 12 litres of paint. My paint supplier thinks that is an awful lot of paint. Is the 12 litres thinned paint (50/50) or neat un-thinned colour?

Thanks,

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Buckdendave David Hill
St Neots, Cambridgeshire, UK   GBR
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1954 MG TF
Charlie. I rebuilt and painted my TF. I used MG Red cellulose top coat (HMG paint that I bought from Colourweld, Luton). I bought 7.5litres of undiluted paint (1 x 5litres and 1 x 2.5litres) just to make sure that I had enough and that it was all from the same batch. I also bought a 2.5litre spare tin and used that to mix paint in at 1:1 ratio ready for spraying. I used about 5litres of undiluted top coat paint and have approx 2.5litres spare for repairs. You need a similar amount of primer / surfacer and loads of thinner. I painted the car in my garage, inside a poly tunnel and rigged up a forced ventilation / extraction system. I am not far away if you need any help.
On my TF I fitted the bulkhead, then the body tub, then the bonnet sides.
Dave H

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EricTharg Charlie B
Peterborough, Cambs, UK   GBR
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Thanks for that info Dave. Hopefully avoids me buying way more than I need. I'm also planning on rigging up a polythene spray "booth" in the corner of my workshop with an extractor. I've not seriously spray painted before but want to give it a go. I personally don't like 70 year old cars that have paint jobs that are way better than ever came out of the factory! My credo is that "perfection is the enemy of good". My car will get used a lot and that means scratches and dings are inevitable...

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Buckdendave David Hill
St Neots, Cambridgeshire, UK   GBR
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1954 MG TF
Mine isn’t the first that I have painted. You need a decent spray gun or two (I have about 4) and need to develop good spraying technique with the two stage trigger (not difficult). Don’t be tempted to use any aerosol spray cans to patch up any small areas before applying the top coat, use the same primer throughout. Practice a bit on some paper pinned to the wall first. Plenty of good videos on YouTube. Above all get a proper mask with the correct filters for cellulose paint solvents.
Dave H

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EricTharg Charlie B
Peterborough, Cambs, UK   GBR
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Just ordered a half decent gun (ANI F150, 1.4mm nozzle) and a filter / separator, plus a mask and mixing cups. Paint comes next (Clipper Blue in my case, and some light grey for the bulkhead) and painting the bulkhead grey will be the first task. Will let you know how I get on. Things need to warm up a bit first!

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Buckdendave David Hill
St Neots, Cambridgeshire, UK   GBR
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1954 MG TF
Sounds fine, especially for the top coat. A slightly bigger nozzle is desirable for primer to save time and get more on, but you should manage with what you have. A smaller gun is desirable for door jambs, but not essential - I can lend you one if you wish. Needs to be warmer and dry.
Dave H

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petergerard Peter DeBruyn
SARATOGA SPRINGS, USA   USA
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Hi Eric -

Place body tub on chassis
Install radiator and shell, as close to vertical as possible
Fit hood panels
Adjust body fore or aft as req’d (and up and down)
Bolt tub down tight
Remove hood panels
Place bulkhead/footramp w/brackets
Adjust as needed and drill - expect some variation side to side
The bulkhead is somewhat flexible and can be “coaxed” into alignment
Note: need 1/4” spacer between tub and bulkhead to mimic the rubber
Pieces that will be installed during final assembly.

Cheers, PeTe

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EricTharg Charlie B
Peterborough, Cambs, UK   GBR
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Thanks Pete. That's exactly what I did yesterday, realising that setting the correct length for the bonnet was the critical thing, and the bulkhead would end up wherever it needs to be height wise. It is a new body tub and with it positioned as far back as it can go on the chassis mounting holes my original bonnet tops are about 3mm too long. That's easily fixed by a bit of trimming - too short would have been a bigger problem!
Next challenge is repairing the grille shell which is cracked in two places around the starting handle hole. Time to re-learn how to silver solder...


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