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Steering modifications for Rover 8 transplant.

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Walrus1954 Avatar
Walrus1954 Neil Peniston
Calgary, AB, Canada   CAN
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Hi All,

New to this forum.

I have a 1971 MGBGT in great shape, no rust. Presently has the 1.8 litre engine in place. I have a Rover V8 (1979) out of a SD1 with the 5 speed transmission that I am considering transplanting in to the GT.

I have been reading Roger Williams book "How to give your MGB V8 power". The steering modifications he suggests for the chrome bumper cars are rather daunting. I have read on varies internet sites that if you use the RV8 headers then it is not necessary to modify the steering. I find this hard to believe.

I would appreciate any advice or direction regarding exactly what is required and what is the simplest route to take regarding the steering mods.

Thanks, Neil.P.

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Simon Austin Avatar
Surrey, BC, Canada   CAN
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Welcome to the Dark Side, Neil.

I've got an '80 SD1 3.5 and LT77 in my car but I started with a '79 shell so no steering mods were required. I'll have a look through Roger's book and see what he has to say. Not that I'm any expert but another pair of eyes can't hurt.

Have a look here: http://www.britishv8.org/Photos-MG-Conversions.htm Scroll down to the MGB's.

Lots of earlier ones like yours. Here's one, a '73 as well: http://www.britishv8.org/MG/MikeAlexander.htm

A few members on BritishV8 also hang out here so you'll find a wealth of knowledge.

Ask lots of questions. We're here to help.

Oh...and pictures. We like pictures!

Cheers
Simon



"Speed costs........how fast you want to spend?"

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Jim Blackwood Avatar
Jim Blackwood * BlownMGB-V8
Gunpowder Rd, Florence, KY, USA   USA
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Neil, mine is a '71, welcome to the dark side. My first engine, I fitted it in with no steering mods. Not the best solution but it worked, this was about 3 decades back with no guidelines other than rumors that the conversion had been done by the factory. (I'd actually seen one in Florida a year before in a showroom but didn't get a real close look)

So. Hand made headers, engine sat rather forward, Buick 215 oil filter was between the rack and swaybar. Hole in the hood, after the engine settled a bit the rear header bolt rubbed the steering knuckle bolt. Radiator had to be moved all the way up to the slam panel.

Next step was to fit a late model steering knuckle. This meant moving the end of the steering column over about 3/16" by using a die grinder on the firewall holes and lengthening the rack pinion. But that wasn't so bad and if you can find a stray rack pinion any machine shop can cut them and make one longer one.

Some people go so far as to weld in a late model firewall cone but I don't think that's necessary. Overall it's probably easier to do a CB conversion than to convert a RB to CB specs.

Jim

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Walrus1954 Avatar
Walrus1954 Neil Peniston
Calgary, AB, Canada   CAN
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Jim and Simon, Thank you for your replies.

Jim, when you talk about lengthening the rack pinion, I presume you then have to shorten the steering column to get the smaller knuckle into the fire wall cone ?.

Cheers, Neil.

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John Hamilton Avatar
Gulf Breeze, FL, USA   USA
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1963 Austin-Healey Sprite
1965 MG MGB "The Great Pumpkin"
1968 MG MGB GT "Buck"
1970 MG MGB "Dad's Car"
I used the late model steering column with the late rack and the firewall corner off a late model car. The rack was modified by Glenn Towery to work with the chrome bumper cross member. I'm using the block hugger headers, but will probably change to RV8 style at some point. Good luck!



If I can't be fast, I'll just be obnoxious!

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Jim Blackwood Avatar
Jim Blackwood * BlownMGB-V8
Gunpowder Rd, Florence, KY, USA   USA
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Didn't have to do a single thing to the column. The Mk-III steering knuckle is a good bit shorter as well as being smaller in diameter so it gives a lot more space but the rack pinion shaft has to be made longer to make up the difference. This moves the knuckle centerline up as well so it is more out of the way. It does throw off the alignment of the shaft with the column and means the column has to move... yes, that would be outwards as well. 3/16 to 1/4" I believe it was, probably closer to 3/16", possibly a bit less. Pretty easy with a die grinder, just open up the holes a bit. The three bolts get a little fiddly to get started, but it works.

I don't remember how much the shaft was lengthened. I believe I cut a chamfer on each piece, drilled the ends and used a dowel pin to align them, then welded, straightened with the press, and turned the weld down in the lathe. But a guy could do an acceptable job using angle iron for a jig and a grinder or belt sander to knock the top off the weld bead. Use a straight edge or roll on a flat surface to check straightness, bend can be corrected several ways.

Jim

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Walrus1954 Avatar
Walrus1954 Neil Peniston
Calgary, AB, Canada   CAN
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Hi Jim ,

Thanks for the suggestion. Sounds like a good idea. I guess it will not be the last question, considering the task ahead!

Cheers. Neil.

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