MGB & GT Forum
Stalls on acceleration
Posted by Wool
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Oct 19, 2014 09:00 PM
Joined 9 years ago
30 Posts
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I bought a 77 MGB that had been stored (inside) for more than 2 years with the intent to restore it. Before I tear it down I want to get it running and asses the engine. It was hard to get it running, but after a new alternator, and a new fuel pump, and some starter fluid, It ran very roughly but failed to idle and quickly stalled. There has been an upgrade to an electronic distributor, and the addition of a down draft Weber. I removed the cap and rotor and added 3in1 oil to the felt pad. Now it will idle but it stalls once the throttle is advanced. Any suggestions?
Thanks, Wool
Thanks, Wool
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Oct 19, 2014 09:05 PM
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Wool thanked mac townsend for this post
Oct 20, 2014 05:28 AM
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Can't help with the Weber, sorry.
Have you checked for sufficient fuel flow? Disconnect supply line at carb and put it in a jar. Ignition on and see how much fuel you get and if it has no bubbles in the flow.
"It is a mistake to try to look too far ahead. The chain of destiny can only be grasped one link at a time."
Sir Winston Churchill
---------------------------------------------------------------
"It all starts in your mind's eye, then it goes to your heart
and finally to your very soul."
G.S.George PHD
Have you checked for sufficient fuel flow? Disconnect supply line at carb and put it in a jar. Ignition on and see how much fuel you get and if it has no bubbles in the flow.
"It is a mistake to try to look too far ahead. The chain of destiny can only be grasped one link at a time."
Sir Winston Churchill
---------------------------------------------------------------
"It all starts in your mind's eye, then it goes to your heart
and finally to your very soul."
G.S.George PHD
Wool thanked rrmgb for this post
Wool thanked TTODD3 for this post
RAY 67 TOURER
Ray Marloff
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Oct 20, 2014 05:37 PM
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Wool thanked RAY 67 TOURER for this post
Jeff in Iowa
Jeffrey J
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Oct 20, 2014 09:15 PM
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Oct 20, 2014 09:27 PM
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the Weber DGV "Pinto carb" has a history of lean on acceleration. See below.
Proper solution means changing parts within the carb. They are not "adjustable" like SUs but changeable as in changing one of many different little pieces within the carb. Each costs money. And knowledge.
""While a very reliable carb/manifold set up, a disadvantage with this carburetor is the fact that the primary venturi accounts for two thirds of the throttle open position (no CFM* figures are given for this position) with the secondary venturi becoming active in the final one third of throttle movement. This carburetor requires excessive initial ignition timing advance to avoid stumble on take off (if the ignition timing was retarded, we would have to open the primary throttle plate to obtain the necessary idle; this would expose the progression bleed holes which in turn would require that the idle mixture be leaned to compensate for this richer mixture condition. The end result being very little progressive richening upon further throttle opening, especially at snap throttle and so the stumble). Carburetor can be modified to allow the primary & secondary throttle plates to open simultaneously plus modifications to the progression circuit and accelerator pump. Unfortunately, the company that used to provide this service no longer offers this modification. Maybe a search on the web will turn up a company that can help you.
from mgbmga.com
http://www.mgbmga.com/tech/mgb19.htm
1973 Pale Primrose Roadster. A nice 10-footer!
SUs, Datsun 5-speed
Proper solution means changing parts within the carb. They are not "adjustable" like SUs but changeable as in changing one of many different little pieces within the carb. Each costs money. And knowledge.
""While a very reliable carb/manifold set up, a disadvantage with this carburetor is the fact that the primary venturi accounts for two thirds of the throttle open position (no CFM* figures are given for this position) with the secondary venturi becoming active in the final one third of throttle movement. This carburetor requires excessive initial ignition timing advance to avoid stumble on take off (if the ignition timing was retarded, we would have to open the primary throttle plate to obtain the necessary idle; this would expose the progression bleed holes which in turn would require that the idle mixture be leaned to compensate for this richer mixture condition. The end result being very little progressive richening upon further throttle opening, especially at snap throttle and so the stumble). Carburetor can be modified to allow the primary & secondary throttle plates to open simultaneously plus modifications to the progression circuit and accelerator pump. Unfortunately, the company that used to provide this service no longer offers this modification. Maybe a search on the web will turn up a company that can help you.
from mgbmga.com
http://www.mgbmga.com/tech/mgb19.htm
1973 Pale Primrose Roadster. A nice 10-footer!
SUs, Datsun 5-speed
Topic Creator (OP)
Oct 21, 2014 06:36 PM
Joined 9 years ago
30 Posts
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Thanks everyone for your input.
Mac, I learned many years ago that Carburetor is French for "Leave IT Alone"
But unfortunately I can't ! I have to muddle through fixing this expensive upgrade that came with the car.
I've begun by taking the top half off as Ray has recommended. The choke linkage is keeping it from coming off all together. There's a teeny tiny circlip holding it in place.
Is there a rebuild kit?
Wool
Mac, I learned many years ago that Carburetor is French for "Leave IT Alone"
But unfortunately I can't ! I have to muddle through fixing this expensive upgrade that came with the car.
I've begun by taking the top half off as Ray has recommended. The choke linkage is keeping it from coming off all together. There's a teeny tiny circlip holding it in place.
Is there a rebuild kit?
Wool
kansaspaul
Paul Williamson
Vassar, KS, USA
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Oct 21, 2014 06:47 PM
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Rebuild kits are available for that carburetor. I believe that the problems you are having are due to clogged jets - they will need to be carefully removed and cleaned. Often a fine wire can be pushed through the jet to clear obstruction. Most kits do come with decent diagrams and instructions. Good luck!!
Blessings
Paul
Blessings
Paul
Oct 21, 2014 08:42 PM
Joined 15 years ago
4,348 Posts
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Copper Nickel Fuel Line
If you have the original steel MGB fuel supply line from the tank to the carburetor, and your area has alcohol in the motor fuel, you are set up for a problem:
Before alcohol was mixed in the gasoline, the gasoline "floated" on top of the water, and most of the time, there were no problems.
Alcohol and water "mix" together, into a solution, and then the "alcohol-water solution" mixes with the gasoline, which rusts steel parts.
MGB "original equipment fuel lines" are made from steel. When I looked at my fuel lines, they were almost completely filled with rust.
You will find that your local auto supply will have 5/16 inch outside diameter, copper-nickel alloy fuel lines, which will solve this problem.
You will need to have your fuel tank cleaned at the radiator shop, and probably have the steel fuel line that goes down the bottom of the tank removed and replaced with the copper-nickel alloy tubing.
Then replace the fuel supply line, all the way to the carburetor(s) with the copper-nickel tubing.
If your car has the charcoal canister and fuel tank vent line from the tank to the engine compartment, that line will need to be replaced as well.
Roger N. Tanner, Professional Engineer (retired)
Oxnard, CA
Roger N. Tanner
Professional Engineer, Retired
If you have the original steel MGB fuel supply line from the tank to the carburetor, and your area has alcohol in the motor fuel, you are set up for a problem:
Before alcohol was mixed in the gasoline, the gasoline "floated" on top of the water, and most of the time, there were no problems.
Alcohol and water "mix" together, into a solution, and then the "alcohol-water solution" mixes with the gasoline, which rusts steel parts.
MGB "original equipment fuel lines" are made from steel. When I looked at my fuel lines, they were almost completely filled with rust.
You will find that your local auto supply will have 5/16 inch outside diameter, copper-nickel alloy fuel lines, which will solve this problem.
You will need to have your fuel tank cleaned at the radiator shop, and probably have the steel fuel line that goes down the bottom of the tank removed and replaced with the copper-nickel alloy tubing.
Then replace the fuel supply line, all the way to the carburetor(s) with the copper-nickel tubing.
If your car has the charcoal canister and fuel tank vent line from the tank to the engine compartment, that line will need to be replaced as well.
Roger N. Tanner, Professional Engineer (retired)
Oxnard, CA
Roger N. Tanner
Professional Engineer, Retired
Topic Creator (OP)
Oct 22, 2014 06:57 PM
Joined 9 years ago
30 Posts
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Thanks to each one of you for your insight.
I took the top half of the Weber off (without loosing that tiny circlip) The float chamber has a lot of sediment at the bottom. Mostly green stuff.
I took steel wool to everything that could be reached, than gave it a good spray of carb cleaner to rinse out any of steel wool fragment. I removed all of the jets, and pocked wire trough every orifice. Once reassembled, I fired the engine up. It ran nicely, and eventually I was able to increase the throttle with out it stumbling. The bad news is know that its running, I can hear all the rattling coming from the engine. Rebuild will be in order. Hopefully I'll get a nice New England day to drive around before I take it apart.
Thanks again to all of you. Wool
I took the top half of the Weber off (without loosing that tiny circlip) The float chamber has a lot of sediment at the bottom. Mostly green stuff.
I took steel wool to everything that could be reached, than gave it a good spray of carb cleaner to rinse out any of steel wool fragment. I removed all of the jets, and pocked wire trough every orifice. Once reassembled, I fired the engine up. It ran nicely, and eventually I was able to increase the throttle with out it stumbling. The bad news is know that its running, I can hear all the rattling coming from the engine. Rebuild will be in order. Hopefully I'll get a nice New England day to drive around before I take it apart.
Thanks again to all of you. Wool
Oct 22, 2014 07:20 PM
Joined 20 years ago
11,349 Posts
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Put a can of Seafoam in the tank the next time you fill. Can't hurt, and will probably help. If you read the can, you can put it through the induction, too. I run SU's, so I don't know how to do it with a Weber.
Jim K is a grease-stained wretch
Jim K is a grease-stained wretch
Topic Creator (OP)
Oct 22, 2014 08:36 PM
Joined 9 years ago
30 Posts
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Topic Creator (OP)
Oct 23, 2014 07:11 PM
Joined 9 years ago
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Oct 23, 2014 08:04 PM
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Wool thanked TonyV for this post
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