T-Series & Prewar Forum

My TD1523 has a build date of 3 May 1950 therefore it does not have fitted a clutch stop bolt. They were not fitted until engine number TD 22251 (Nov. 20, 1952).

The car does not have a matching engine, it has engine number TD 22357 which should have a clutch stop bolt fitted.

I have a copy of the drawing for fitting the clutch stop bolt to a left hand drive but would anyone be able to supply me with a rough sketch for the drilling in the pedal box for a right hand drive car.

The reason I am asking is I took the car for a registration inspection the other day and it past OK. However on the way home the clutch started to play up and subsequently I could not change gear at all. On adjusting the rods I found the clutch lever from the clutch housing offered no resistance. Which indicates to me that I have an internal clutch problem and will need to take the gearbox out to fix it , This I will do over the next couple of days. So while I am at it I thought it necessary to install a clutch stop bolt. Hence my request.

Apologies for being so long winded.

The engine is not relevant when swapped. If you still use a cable actuated clutch the bolt isn't used. If you have switched over to a rod in place of the cable then it is useful but not a necessity

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Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD-5779
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060

TF-8200

I totally agree, however it appears the carbon bearing has gone over centre and hit the clutch pressure plate. I will know when I pull it out and inspect it over the weekend. However, being of a cautious nature I don't wish to pull the gearbox off any more times than I need to, so I will install the clutch bolt just to be save.

John - The engine # is totally immaterial to whether or not to install the stop bolt. If you still have a cable operated clutch, the stop bolt is not needed, you can adjust the clutch throw with the instructions in the shop manual. If the cable system has been replaced with the clutch rods you will need to install the stop bolt.

Bill C. - I have to disagree with the above statement. I have seen too many clutch throw out bearings and pressure plate bearing surface damaged due to the lack of a stop bolt. I will agree that not all of the cars converted over to the rod operating system seem to have this problem. It has been an ongoing problem for many years and O'Conner tried to remedy it by reducing the clutch link overall length and if the person doing the modification, does it correctly the problem is solved until there is sufficient wear on the throw out bearing. The stop bolt was added at the factory when the cable actuated clutch was dropped and the rod actuated clutch system substituted for the cable system. Our TD was built after the rod actuated clutch came into use and I have never had to make any kind of clutch adjustment in the 43 years we have owned and driven it.
Cheers,

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Dave DuBois
1953 MGTD
1966 MGB
http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/

Here's a drawing which I made for the installation of my clutch linkage kits but it also shows where the clutch stop can be retro-fitted if required. It will certainly do no harm. These are measurements taken from my (LHD) car and differ somewhat to the article on the clutch stop.

Regards
Declan

Many thanks Declan.

Taking out the gearbox will be my weekend activity

John

John - If you want to get some excellent clutch rods with rose ends (ball bearings), invest in Declan's offerings. Not only to they work great, they are as close to art in auto parts, Declan's clutch rods are just that.
Cheers,

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Dave DuBois
1953 MGTD
1966 MGB
http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/

Thank you all for your response,

Declan , I received your email OK.

Thanks,
John