MGB & GT Forum

I have been told that the inside of the car can get hot and uncomfortable after being in operation for a long time. My mother used to go on long drives when the car still belonged to my father and she told me it gets pretty warm inside of the car, even when the top is down. She also complained that it was loud, though for being an open top classic car I kind of expect it to be a little loud.
I noticed Moss Motors sells heat and sound insulation shields for under the carpet, over the transmission tunnel, and bin front of the fire wall. Does anyone have any experience using products like these and if so, did you notice any improvement after installing them?
The weather is getting warmer here on Ohio and I don't want to get too hot inside the car with the sun beaming down on me as well. Also, I don't have a quality convertible top for the Roadster. I have the old one but it's faded, worn, and unsightly. I only plan on using it for unexpected rain until I can afford a new top.

The various brands of insulation work quite well, I used two type when I stripped my car interior down to bare metal for a complete renewal of the cabin. I used the foil-backed bitumous material followed by "wall-papering" the car with a quilted aluminum foil product that had a layer of ceramic fiber insulation in the center. The cabin looked like a NASA project prior to installing the carpets.
You will never do much on the noise side, in fact I find that the car appears quieter with no top than it does with either my soft top or hard top. In hot weather you have to put the soft top up but have one with a zip out rear window. When that is removed and both door windows are wound down you get a nice cooling air flow though the car and the sun isn't melting your brains

Bypass the heater core even with a fully functional heater valve you get back feed from the return side.
Install an exhaust heat shield.
Use sheepskin seat covers costco
Cool in hot weather
Enjoy the MGB
You can get the Moss pieces at discount from forum member merchants
Like Chris Roop,Basil Adams,Robert Kirk .etc.

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LNDRVR4X4.COM
Home of Project "INCARN8'


1957 Series 1 Land Rover electric VEHICLE CONVERSION

FIXITUPCHAP.COM
FIXITUPCHAP INCORPORATED

RD3 Radar/ Electronic Warfare Technician
VIETNAM 1969-1972

And don't forget to open the fresh air vent - so easy on a LHD drive car

It's gonna get hot regardless...just part of the deal.

Wear sunglasses
Wear a brimmed hat
Use sunscreen
Keep hydrated
Go old school and use beach towels as hot weather seat covers. Work great, very versatile, cheap and easily washed...

You're going to get hot.

You can do a whole lotta work, spend money...and you'll still be hot.

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"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions"--Alvin "Tex" Johnston...Boeing test pilot.

"Who do you think you are? I am."...Pete Weber

73 MGB. Tires: Round, black, hold air. Oil: Sometimes old, sometimes new...always slippery. Oil filter: Yellow, usually full of oil. Carbs: 2 SU HIF. Distributor: Yes. Headlights: Not that bright but bright enough. A bunch of other stuff most cars have but not really important enough to itemize. Oh, wait...it has a cool sounding exhaust with stickers on the chrome tips. Really slays the ladies...

Here's what I did to mine. About $30 worth of insulation, tape, and spray adhesive from Lowe's. I was replacing the carpets anyway and it seems to have made a real difference in both heat & noise for me.

Jim

NASA would be proud to have you on board

Best thing for mine was the removal of the middle muffler. A little louder. With the to down you cannot hear anything. Radios are tough to make useful above 50 mph.

In the past my right heel was often burned.

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L.W.(Larry)Baygents
63B
77 Spit

This article might give you some ideas.

http://www.mgexp.com/article/low-cost-car-sound-thermal-insulation.html

Herb

Do it right,spend the time,work,money. You can make it cooler and quieter. Anyone that has done so knows it can be done.
And you won't still be hot.

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LNDRVR4X4.COM
Home of Project "INCARN8'


1957 Series 1 Land Rover electric VEHICLE CONVERSION

FIXITUPCHAP.COM
FIXITUPCHAP INCORPORATED

RD3 Radar/ Electronic Warfare Technician
VIETNAM 1969-1972

100deg heat with the top down is still 100deg heat and that's the biggest "enemy".

The "quiet" can be addressed with the thermal insulation for sure though.

The "hot"? Well...everyone has their own definition of "hot". I've only driven mine in 94/95 deg heat and my comfort...or lack of...had little to do with the heat from the engine and more from the star 8 light min's away.

The sheepskin covers are a good idea though. Didn't know CostCo carried them but I may check next time I get there.

Oh...loose fitting, light colored long sleeve shirts will keep you cooler and prevent sunburn as well. The Bedouins knew what they were doing.

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"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions"--Alvin "Tex" Johnston...Boeing test pilot.

"Who do you think you are? I am."...Pete Weber

73 MGB. Tires: Round, black, hold air. Oil: Sometimes old, sometimes new...always slippery. Oil filter: Yellow, usually full of oil. Carbs: 2 SU HIF. Distributor: Yes. Headlights: Not that bright but bright enough. A bunch of other stuff most cars have but not really important enough to itemize. Oh, wait...it has a cool sounding exhaust with stickers on the chrome tips. Really slays the ladies...

100F is more tolerable when not also being cooked from below.
The Bedouin thing also helps

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LNDRVR4X4.COM
Home of Project "INCARN8'


1957 Series 1 Land Rover electric VEHICLE CONVERSION

FIXITUPCHAP.COM
FIXITUPCHAP INCORPORATED

RD3 Radar/ Electronic Warfare Technician
VIETNAM 1969-1972

One word:

Reflectix. Get thee to Home Depot or Lowes and buy a roll.

It's aluminum foil, bubble wrap, aluminum foil laminate and it's used to insulate heating ducts.

It is the NUTS for the floors, under the carpet, on our cars.

I've used it before, I'll use it again.

Did I mention that an $18 roll will do your entire car?

hth,

Jim

Looking at what was left of the heater diverter in my car, looks like gluing some foam/rubber on the flap would allow it to close of the heat far more effectively. If the flap is closed and the valve is actually closed, questionable on the OEM valve, the core should not be blowing hot air on you.

Yea, getting REAL defrost and a bit of foot heat is my current project for the 65. Defrosters are not optional in Maryland and heaters are not optional with wives.

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Cogito ergo sum periculoso

After studying the cross section pictures, I had a backwards thought that may actually reduce heater blow-by. How about ducting the heater fan through the plenum and firewall into the cabin? Then ram air won't be passing the core. No fan, no flow. The second benefit would be increased heat. The roadster leaks enough or the vent windows can be cracked for flow. No need for the magnetic strip in the winter either.

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Cogito ergo sum periculoso