MGB & GT Forum
Re vinyling seats Tips please
Posted by MGBRITTANY
MGBRITTANY
Tim I
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Apr 17, 2014 05:49 AM
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Apr 17, 2014 05:55 AM
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ohlord
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1957 Land Rover Series I "EYEYIYI"
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Apr 17, 2014 07:55 PM
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Get leather
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Apr 18, 2014 02:57 AM
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Two tips if your redoing the seats. First remember that the new bottom foams (along with seat frame) are handed- a right and a left dont get them switched. Second when putting on the bottom diaphragms or straps they are easier to mount using a long tool with a curve or L on the end for the metal mounting hooks. I made one out of an old paint roller just remove the roller. Once you start use a new complete kit, the foams, covers, straps, back boards etc. Dont try and reuse any of the old . I find removing the head rest easier if you remove seats pull up the rear cover and back board use pliers to squeeze the small metal part at the base of the headrest tube that stops the headrest from coming free. Throw that metal bit away you dont need it. Pictures...
Donthuis
Don van Riet
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Apr 18, 2014 03:51 AM
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At least renew the bottom foams, the backrest can be slightly filled up by adding a thin layer of extra foam, bought in a specialist shop or on some market.
In Porter's book on the MGB he advises to slide a plastic bag over the backrest foam before moving the cover over it. Not really necessary, unless you overfill it (but then the cover may split at the seams). Buying new backrest foams spares you these problems. Headrests are a pain to get out pulling strongly (either with the seats still in the car or with somebody strong holding them down) and wiggling them will work in the end. Of course sacrifying the old cover by making a slit to reach thses locking pins is also possible
Glueing the vinyl covers to the bottom seatfoam as advised in the package did not work for me, but maybe it depends on the type of glue.
And: buy Porter's if you haven't done so in the past. It has a lot of step by step descriptions with pictures at each step
In Porter's book on the MGB he advises to slide a plastic bag over the backrest foam before moving the cover over it. Not really necessary, unless you overfill it (but then the cover may split at the seams). Buying new backrest foams spares you these problems. Headrests are a pain to get out pulling strongly (either with the seats still in the car or with somebody strong holding them down) and wiggling them will work in the end. Of course sacrifying the old cover by making a slit to reach thses locking pins is also possible
Glueing the vinyl covers to the bottom seatfoam as advised in the package did not work for me, but maybe it depends on the type of glue.
And: buy Porter's if you haven't done so in the past. It has a lot of step by step descriptions with pictures at each step
maggelie
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Donthuis
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Apr 19, 2014 05:38 AM
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In reply to # 2665146 by maggelie
It was my experience that the seat foams made the seat higher than factory. Some advise cutting them down a bit.
The very first time you sit on them, one hardly fits on the wider steering wheel of the Mark I & II cars. But this is quickly gone and the foam settles in quite fast. It is a matter of months and fortunately this sagging away stops after a year or so. I'm afraid cutting them lower at mounting will give you a seat position too low after one year of driving already
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Apr 19, 2014 06:08 AM
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maggelie
Arthur Nichols
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Apr 19, 2014 09:13 AM
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Apr 19, 2014 09:30 AM
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If the head rest friction material is shot, a length of rubber hose cut and sliced to fit will restore the friction.
If you reuse the old foams and they are damaged from removing the old material, glue a 1/4 inch thick layer to the tops to smooth them out.
If you reuse the old foams and they are damaged from removing the old material, glue a 1/4 inch thick layer to the tops to smooth them out.
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