MGB & GT Forum
Progress on MC removal 74 CB B
Posted by dickstag
Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 30, 2017 09:11 PM
Joined 11 years ago
475 Posts
|
Having given up on getting one of the Brake lines to pressure distributor. I ordered replacements for the two short brake line which connect to the Brake MC. The PO had rounded it over and I couldn't get it to turn. So I cut it with a sawsall.
The Clutch MC, I couldn't get the hardline disconnected from the Banjo connector. I was able to unbolt the Banjo for the MC.
Disconnected the heater Cable fro the heat valve.
I got the MC mounting bracket with both MCs removed.
Lots of degreaser and paper towels to mop up the fluid which had leaked before I acquired the car.
Took a putty knife and some wooden scures to free up all the loose paint in the area.
Wire brushed then sprayed it down with metal prep. Will paint with POR 15 then the original color befor installing the new MCs.
I also started looking replacing the sun visors, how hard could that be ?
I didn't do any reading before ordering the new ones.
Do you really have to remove the mounting bracket which is riveted to the wind screen frame ?
The Clutch MC, I couldn't get the hardline disconnected from the Banjo connector. I was able to unbolt the Banjo for the MC.
Disconnected the heater Cable fro the heat valve.
I got the MC mounting bracket with both MCs removed.
Lots of degreaser and paper towels to mop up the fluid which had leaked before I acquired the car.
Took a putty knife and some wooden scures to free up all the loose paint in the area.
Wire brushed then sprayed it down with metal prep. Will paint with POR 15 then the original color befor installing the new MCs.
I also started looking replacing the sun visors, how hard could that be ?
I didn't do any reading before ordering the new ones.
Do you really have to remove the mounting bracket which is riveted to the wind screen frame ?
Apr 30, 2017 10:50 PM
Joined 15 years ago
4,348 Posts
|
Unless you know if the brake and clutch hydraulics don't have any rust in the hydraulic tubing, I would change all these items and install stainless steel tubing and DOT 5, Silicone Brake Fluid which never absorbs water and lets the cast iron brake and clutch pistons, and the wheel cylinders.
I did this change in 1984 and have never needed to do anything but change brake shoes and front wheel caliper shoes . . . 80,000 miles.
Roger N. Tanner
Professional Engineer, Retired
I did this change in 1984 and have never needed to do anything but change brake shoes and front wheel caliper shoes . . . 80,000 miles.
Roger N. Tanner
Professional Engineer, Retired
|
Apr 30, 2017 11:31 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 19 years ago
15,075 Posts
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The visors are attached to the bracket with a locking nut, visible from underneath. No need to remove the riveted bracket.
As for silicone fluid, the debate will continue. I've been successful using it in one MGB years ago. Since then, no luck with bleeding the brakes.
New MC's have a warning on them about warranties being void if silicone fluid used.
Your choice.
"Speed costs........how fast you want to spend?"
As for silicone fluid, the debate will continue. I've been successful using it in one MGB years ago. Since then, no luck with bleeding the brakes.
New MC's have a warning on them about warranties being void if silicone fluid used.
Your choice.
"Speed costs........how fast you want to spend?"
Topic Creator (OP)
May 1, 2017 06:46 AM
Joined 11 years ago
475 Posts
|
Simon:
Good to hear that the nut can be removed without taking out the rivets. I tried a couple sockets but neither fit. I never came across a post which which specified the socket size.
Puzzled why so many posts talked about taking out the rivets and the challenges of putting them back.
As for moving to SS Brake lines, that could be on my list for this winter. Right now I am looking to get it on the road this spring.
I am installing Speed Bleeders everywhere. I plan to clean out the Brake lines and install DOT 5.
Got to decide this week, concert to Wire Wheels (swap rearend) (I have a mounted set of tires on good WW rims) or buy new 15" 4 bolt rims and rubber. I have always need a WW guy but the 15" 5 bolt rims are appealing.
Then there removing Sabrina bumpers. One move to go. PO removed two, I removed one. To do so I had to put a 3' pipe on my Koblt wrench. The wrench bent but did not brake.
But the Sabrina bolts can't be slipped out of the bumper. I don't want to remove the bumper to remove these bolts unless absolutely necessary. I would consider sawsalling them off.
I would like to install all chrome overriders. Can I do that ? Can I do that without removing the bumper ? Or I might just install chrome headed bolts without the Overriders if I can find them.
Good to hear that the nut can be removed without taking out the rivets. I tried a couple sockets but neither fit. I never came across a post which which specified the socket size.
Puzzled why so many posts talked about taking out the rivets and the challenges of putting them back.
As for moving to SS Brake lines, that could be on my list for this winter. Right now I am looking to get it on the road this spring.
I am installing Speed Bleeders everywhere. I plan to clean out the Brake lines and install DOT 5.
Got to decide this week, concert to Wire Wheels (swap rearend) (I have a mounted set of tires on good WW rims) or buy new 15" 4 bolt rims and rubber. I have always need a WW guy but the 15" 5 bolt rims are appealing.
Then there removing Sabrina bumpers. One move to go. PO removed two, I removed one. To do so I had to put a 3' pipe on my Koblt wrench. The wrench bent but did not brake.
But the Sabrina bolts can't be slipped out of the bumper. I don't want to remove the bumper to remove these bolts unless absolutely necessary. I would consider sawsalling them off.
I would like to install all chrome overriders. Can I do that ? Can I do that without removing the bumper ? Or I might just install chrome headed bolts without the Overriders if I can find them.
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