MGC Forum
Primer for aluminium hood
Posted by Vincesmgc
Topic Creator (OP)
Jul 29, 2014 01:02 PM
Joined 10 years ago
78 Posts
|
To make a very loooong story short, I am working on putting a louvered good on the c. I originally used southern polyurethanes epoxy primer on my other hood and it stuck like glue. I think after sitting a few years it's lost it's chemical effectiveness because I sprayed my louvers good with it yesterday, and just watched in amazed as I used an air gun to blow most of it off
So... Since I need to buy some, are there any recommendations for a base primer (epoxy?) that will stick to the aluminium better? Did anyone just use regular epoxy primer?
Thanks
Vince
So... Since I need to buy some, are there any recommendations for a base primer (epoxy?) that will stick to the aluminium better? Did anyone just use regular epoxy primer?
Thanks
Vince
ga duke
Mike Dooley
|
Jul 29, 2014 02:14 PM
Joined 16 years ago
1,126 Posts
|
Jul 29, 2014 02:16 PM
Joined 11 years ago
109 Posts
|
Jul 29, 2014 04:43 PM
Joined 16 years ago
547 Posts
|
Topic Creator (OP)
Jul 29, 2014 07:44 PM
Joined 10 years ago
78 Posts
|
Thanks guys... So this hood needs some body work love... My usual steps are:
Rough up metal and shoot epoxy primer. Apply all metal filler to big dents.... Get things smoothed out roughly, then shoot spray polyester filler over the whole thing. Sand flat, cover in 1 coat epoxy,a few coats of 2k, and then go from there with 400 to 600 grit.
Not sure what to do after spraying the etch down..... As I say... This hood needs lots of body love
Rough up metal and shoot epoxy primer. Apply all metal filler to big dents.... Get things smoothed out roughly, then shoot spray polyester filler over the whole thing. Sand flat, cover in 1 coat epoxy,a few coats of 2k, and then go from there with 400 to 600 grit.
Not sure what to do after spraying the etch down..... As I say... This hood needs lots of body love
kirks-auto
Robert Kirk (RIP)
Davenport, IA, USA
Sign in to contact
|
Jul 31, 2014 04:04 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 15 years ago
21,573 Posts
|
Primer etch is a little known secret to base prep for anything and especially alloy. I endorse those who say so above.
Regards,
Robert Kirk
kirkbrit@yahoo.com
E-mail PLEASE for quote/questions/orders
Business phone 563 323 1017
http://kirks-auto.com/
Moss distributor/UK importer
Beat or match most retail/delivered quote
Regards,
Robert Kirk
kirkbrit@yahoo.com
E-mail PLEASE for quote/questions/orders
Business phone 563 323 1017
http://kirks-auto.com/
Moss distributor/UK importer
Beat or match most retail/delivered quote
Jul 31, 2014 03:25 PM
Joined 11 years ago
109 Posts
|
Topic Creator (OP)
Jul 31, 2014 03:46 PM
Joined 10 years ago
78 Posts
|
Jul 31, 2014 03:49 PM
Joined 11 years ago
109 Posts
|
MG four six eight
Bill Jacobson
WA, USA
Sign in to contact
|
Aug 1, 2014 12:26 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 16 years ago
528 Posts
|
Vince,
Be careful when using all-metal on somewhat flexible panels such as an aluminum hood. It requires a really rough surface such as scuffing with 16 grit sand paper, otherwise it can loose adhesion with the base metal due to heat flexing from the engine temps.
I've found that fiberglass re-enforced filler usually works better as it can flex with the thermal expansion that a hood goes though.
Bill
Be careful when using all-metal on somewhat flexible panels such as an aluminum hood. It requires a really rough surface such as scuffing with 16 grit sand paper, otherwise it can loose adhesion with the base metal due to heat flexing from the engine temps.
I've found that fiberglass re-enforced filler usually works better as it can flex with the thermal expansion that a hood goes though.
Bill
kirks-auto
Robert Kirk (RIP)
Davenport, IA, USA
Sign in to contact
|
Aug 1, 2014 02:58 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 15 years ago
21,573 Posts
|
My advice is to go to the paint suppliers. In the end it is their responsibility to provide correct materials. Shops/painters just have their personal bias for one thing or another. They get good with one company's brand and prefer not to stray...at least that is my read about many if not most.
Regards,
Robert Kirk
kirkbrit@yahoo.com
E-mail PLEASE for quote/questions/orders
Business phone 563 323 1017
http://kirks-auto.com/
Moss distributor/UK importer
Beat or match most retail/delivered quote
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-08-01 08:40 AM by kirks-auto.
Regards,
Robert Kirk
kirkbrit@yahoo.com
E-mail PLEASE for quote/questions/orders
Business phone 563 323 1017
http://kirks-auto.com/
Moss distributor/UK importer
Beat or match most retail/delivered quote
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-08-01 08:40 AM by kirks-auto.
Aug 1, 2014 08:32 AM
Joined 13 years ago
88 Posts
|
Vince,
See PPG product data sheet P-226
If you have a clean paint stripped hood ( i.e. not media blasted , I hope ) you do NOT need a wash primer ( i.e. acid etch primer)
If hood has been blasted or heavily sanded use an acid etch primer
Aluminum is known for having lots of corrosion on its surface ( depending on how long its exposed) Try TIG welding on a dirty alum surface and you will find out. Steel panels require a similar treatment also ( cleaning and conditioning) prior to surface coating
For clean original surface ... first clean with PPG DX 533 . then you need PPG DX 503 ( for a surface being painted) it is a chromic acid based chemical that becomes part of the alum surface that promotes adhesion .
DX 503 will turn the surface a tan color
DX 501 is a clear version for keeping alum its '' White metal'' appearance when a bare alum panel is desired
Follow instructions and you can use the DPLF epoxy based primers over the treated alum surface , then after drying time you can use your body filler over that and continue the body process.
Ive done many Austin Healey 3000s ( alum front and rear shrouds) with this process .
Not a fan of Acid etch primers
Carroll Phillips
Top Down Restorations
See PPG product data sheet P-226
If you have a clean paint stripped hood ( i.e. not media blasted , I hope ) you do NOT need a wash primer ( i.e. acid etch primer)
If hood has been blasted or heavily sanded use an acid etch primer
Aluminum is known for having lots of corrosion on its surface ( depending on how long its exposed) Try TIG welding on a dirty alum surface and you will find out. Steel panels require a similar treatment also ( cleaning and conditioning) prior to surface coating
For clean original surface ... first clean with PPG DX 533 . then you need PPG DX 503 ( for a surface being painted) it is a chromic acid based chemical that becomes part of the alum surface that promotes adhesion .
DX 503 will turn the surface a tan color
DX 501 is a clear version for keeping alum its '' White metal'' appearance when a bare alum panel is desired
Follow instructions and you can use the DPLF epoxy based primers over the treated alum surface , then after drying time you can use your body filler over that and continue the body process.
Ive done many Austin Healey 3000s ( alum front and rear shrouds) with this process .
Not a fan of Acid etch primers
Carroll Phillips
Top Down Restorations
Aug 2, 2014 03:24 AM
Joined 17 years ago
165 Posts
|
Or you could try Aircraft Spruce:
Aircraft Spruce Etch Primer
Aircraft Spruce Etch Primer
Forums
Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster