MGC Forum
Original door cards versus reproductions
Posted by billh1963
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Mar 1, 2015 05:47 PM
Joined 11 years ago
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Mounting some new Moss door panels today and I have to say that they are VERY thick....maybe too thick? Out of all my C's I don't think I have any that have any original door cards. Does anyone have know how the new reproduction panels compare to original?
Thank you
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2015-03-01 05:47 PM by billh1963.
Thank you
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2015-03-01 05:47 PM by billh1963.
kirks-auto
Robert Kirk (RIP)
Davenport, IA, USA
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Mar 3, 2015 10:16 AM
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The ones I sell from the UK appear to be exactly the same as OE fwiw.
Regards,
Robert Kirk
kirkbrit@yahoo.com
E-mail PLEASE for quote/questions/orders
Business phone 563 323 1017
http://kirks-auto.com/
Moss distributor/UK importer
Beat or match most retail/delivered quote
Regards,
Robert Kirk
kirkbrit@yahoo.com
E-mail PLEASE for quote/questions/orders
Business phone 563 323 1017
http://kirks-auto.com/
Moss distributor/UK importer
Beat or match most retail/delivered quote
Topic Creator (OP)
Mar 3, 2015 12:56 PM
Joined 11 years ago
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kirks-auto
Robert Kirk (RIP)
Davenport, IA, USA
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Mar 3, 2015 02:01 PM
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Happy to see what I can do but keep in mind, IF what I have is OEM it is 45 years old, dried vinyl and tired backing body. So any measure will be nominal at best. Will look for you later this afternoon. Masonite was what I would term the base material in the day. Earlier it was a paper type material and currently upholstery shops use a similar more water proof upholstery "hard board" that takes both glue, staples and tacks.
http://www.perfectfit.com/15347/154532/Chipboard-Car-Panelboard/Kraft-Tan-Waterproof-Panelboard.html
deluxe
http://www.perfectfit.com/15347/154533/Chipboard-Car-Panelboard/Black-Treated-Waterproof-Panelboard.html
DIY
http://www.hotrodders.com/scratch-built/Upholstery:_Interior_Panels
Regards,
Robert Kirk
kirkbrit@yahoo.com
E-mail PLEASE for quote/questions/orders
Business phone 563 323 1017
http://kirks-auto.com/
Moss distributor/UK importer
Beat or match most retail/delivered quote
http://www.perfectfit.com/15347/154532/Chipboard-Car-Panelboard/Kraft-Tan-Waterproof-Panelboard.html
deluxe
http://www.perfectfit.com/15347/154533/Chipboard-Car-Panelboard/Black-Treated-Waterproof-Panelboard.html
DIY
http://www.hotrodders.com/scratch-built/Upholstery:_Interior_Panels
Regards,
Robert Kirk
kirkbrit@yahoo.com
E-mail PLEASE for quote/questions/orders
Business phone 563 323 1017
http://kirks-auto.com/
Moss distributor/UK importer
Beat or match most retail/delivered quote
Mar 3, 2015 03:53 PM
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I made my own door cards for my V8.
1952 MGTD - 1969 MGC - 1972 MGB - 1974&1/2 MGB/GT V8 conversion - 1978 MGB
mowog1@aol.com
1952 MGTD - 1969 MGC - 1972 MGB - 1974&1/2 MGB/GT V8 conversion - 1978 MGB
mowog1@aol.com
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Pieces of Eight! has provided gas-charged bonnet & bootlid strut kits for the MGB/MGC and hatch kits for the MGB/GT-MGC/GT since 1996. We have recently added MG Midget bonnet and bootlid kits to inventory. Contact Rick at: mowog1@aol.com
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Mar 3, 2015 05:17 PM
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I too have recently fitted new MOSS door cards and rubbers on a CGT. The doorcards are definately more padded/thicker however once they settle they are ok. On one side I managed to leave the door catch in its original position and with a "firm" shut they were ok at first....on the other door I had to move the catch to get the door to shut (shutline about 5mm from the rear wing). I also struggled getting the door pull screws to bite so had to get longer ones.
After a week or so both doors shut with a weighted hand behind them rather than a slam and I am ready to move the altered catch inwards slightly and repeat the process.
I had a similar issue with my V8GT a couple of years back and both doors now shut with a satisfying clunk in a normal manner.
The foam within the door panel has squished down and the door rubber has now squished as well. Of course you can "relieve" the door flange a little but I prefer to let things settle if possible first otherwise you risk a less than airtight seal following time settling.
It seems very few door seals etc are precisely OEM style these days, maybe its the material but I find a few days settling is needed.
Tim
After a week or so both doors shut with a weighted hand behind them rather than a slam and I am ready to move the altered catch inwards slightly and repeat the process.
I had a similar issue with my V8GT a couple of years back and both doors now shut with a satisfying clunk in a normal manner.
The foam within the door panel has squished down and the door rubber has now squished as well. Of course you can "relieve" the door flange a little but I prefer to let things settle if possible first otherwise you risk a less than airtight seal following time settling.
It seems very few door seals etc are precisely OEM style these days, maybe its the material but I find a few days settling is needed.
Tim
Topic Creator (OP)
Mar 3, 2015 06:35 PM
Joined 11 years ago
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Hi Tim,
I got the driver's door to fit with a very FIRM push. After a few days it now shuts somewhat normally.
My challenge is with the passenger door. I can't seem to get it to close all the way. I have moved the striker out and it still sits out 1/2" or so. I'm letting it sit in that position for a while and see if it settles in.
Thank you,
Bill
I got the driver's door to fit with a very FIRM push. After a few days it now shuts somewhat normally.
My challenge is with the passenger door. I can't seem to get it to close all the way. I have moved the striker out and it still sits out 1/2" or so. I'm letting it sit in that position for a while and see if it settles in.
Thank you,
Bill
Mar 4, 2015 12:03 AM
Joined 10 years ago
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Anybody know where a guy could find some chrome strips similar to the original "chromed plastic" ones that are on the door panels of the 70's doors?
Oops, I guess this question would be better asked in the B area since C's don't have them... Sorry!
Those who confuse Burro and Burrow don't know their @ss from a hole in the ground...
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2015-03-04 12:04 AM by tahoe36c.
Oops, I guess this question would be better asked in the B area since C's don't have them... Sorry!
Those who confuse Burro and Burrow don't know their @ss from a hole in the ground...
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2015-03-04 12:04 AM by tahoe36c.
bloomz thanked tahoe36c for this post
Mar 4, 2015 05:52 AM
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Paul
I think the chrome covered plastic strips are heat sealed to the door cards and are best replaced by buying new door cards.
I have never seen them sold separately or anything similar. If you can peel them off other donor door cards they tend to warp and are hard to affix.
Been there.
Ron
I think the chrome covered plastic strips are heat sealed to the door cards and are best replaced by buying new door cards.
I have never seen them sold separately or anything similar. If you can peel them off other donor door cards they tend to warp and are hard to affix.
Been there.
Ron
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Steve N
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Mar 4, 2015 09:41 AM
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Bill, I had a similar experience with the door cards on my C. I'm sure they are replacements from the PO, but not sure where he purchased them. The driver door was fine and the passenger door would get hung up like you describe. I found that the "beading" on the door was catching on the door frame. When I changed the format of my convertible top and had the door caps recovered the interior shop fixed the slight overage of material on the passenger door. Now no problem. BTW I had tried adjusting the door hinges as well, to no avail.
Steve
Steve
Mar 4, 2015 09:46 AM
Joined 10 years ago
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Ron,
Yes, you are correct about the heat bonded strips. I am covering my door panels with leather so bonding something like that would be impossible anyway. I am hoping to find something similar in actual metal possibly with some type of mounting studs that could be attached. If not, I'll just have to live without them...
Paul
Those who confuse Burro and Burrow don't know their @ss from a hole in the ground...
Yes, you are correct about the heat bonded strips. I am covering my door panels with leather so bonding something like that would be impossible anyway. I am hoping to find something similar in actual metal possibly with some type of mounting studs that could be attached. If not, I'll just have to live without them...
Paul
In reply to # 2932629 by ron neal
Paul
I think the chrome covered plastic strips are heat sealed to the door cards and are best replaced by buying new door cards.
I have never seen them sold separately or anything similar. If you can peel them off other donor door cards they tend to warp and are hard to affix.
Been there.
Ron
I think the chrome covered plastic strips are heat sealed to the door cards and are best replaced by buying new door cards.
I have never seen them sold separately or anything similar. If you can peel them off other donor door cards they tend to warp and are hard to affix.
Been there.
Ron
Those who confuse Burro and Burrow don't know their @ss from a hole in the ground...
kirks-auto
Robert Kirk (RIP)
Davenport, IA, USA
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Mar 6, 2015 05:22 AM
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Sorry for the tardy reply. This is an original from my MGC. The vinyl is OE and cloth backed and the support is Masonite, not really water proof and modern materials pointed out above would be better no doubt. Today's vinyl is also much thinner. The foam that adds body to the finished product is just a good guestimate. My tired eyes have a problem with a veneer "touching" two sides of something so depressionable.
Regards,
Robert Kirk
kirkbrit@yahoo.com
E-mail PLEASE for quote/questions/orders
Business phone 563 323 1017
http://kirks-auto.com/
Moss distributor/UK importer
Beat or match most retail/delivered quote
Regards,
Robert Kirk
kirkbrit@yahoo.com
E-mail PLEASE for quote/questions/orders
Business phone 563 323 1017
http://kirks-auto.com/
Moss distributor/UK importer
Beat or match most retail/delivered quote
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Topic Creator (OP)
Mar 6, 2015 05:37 AM
Joined 11 years ago
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kirks-auto
Robert Kirk (RIP)
Davenport, IA, USA
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Mar 6, 2015 05:56 AM
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I've seen the factory work around. They cut out darts and use glue. The red arrows show darts while the yellow illustrates staples. Keep in mind if you staple this way, the staple leg closest to the edge is doing nearly all the work. IIRC my 69 sprite had no staples used only glue. I am not sure where you can find the proper glue but brand name weldwood comes to mind. You coat both sides and let it get tacky...10 minutes or so and once "set" they bond very well. So well you will probably destroy the masonite if you ever try to unglue it. 3M used to have an expensive aerosol with this type of glue. In the upholstery community it is called elephant or rhino snot. I suspect the folks at Gorlilla Glue chose their animal as an honor testimony to the aforementioned. What I am unsure is if Gorilla glue would be the best for this situation but it is a VERY good adhesive.
Regards,
Robert Kirk
kirkbrit@yahoo.com
E-mail PLEASE for quote/questions/orders
Business phone 563 323 1017
http://kirks-auto.com/
Moss distributor/UK importer
Beat or match most retail/delivered quote
Regards,
Robert Kirk
kirkbrit@yahoo.com
E-mail PLEASE for quote/questions/orders
Business phone 563 323 1017
http://kirks-auto.com/
Moss distributor/UK importer
Beat or match most retail/delivered quote
Mar 6, 2015 08:45 AM
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Joined 14 years ago
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