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Oil Filter Head Torque

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Davew70mgb Dave Windisch
Solon, IA, USA   USA
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1970 MG MGB
I have an oil leak at the joint between the filter head and block on my '70 MGB so I need to replace the seals. But I can't find the torque spec for the center bolt. Anyone know what it is? Also anything else I should look for in that area?

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flash75 Clifton G
Summerfield, FL, USA   USA
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15 ft. lb. according to the shop manual

Clifton

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ingoldsb Avatar
ingoldsb Silver Member Terry Ingoldsby
Calgary, AB, Canada   CAN
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1971 MG MGB
Just tight enough to stop it from leaking!

The housing is made of aluminum, and with a big bolt head like that it is tempting to overtorque it - possibly breaking the casting. The good news is that there is some give in the rubber which provides protection against this.

My advice is to tighten it a little beyond snug, then observe if it leaks. If so, tighten a little more and recheck.

Where I've had leakage is on the bolt head. Make sure you have a copper or plastic washer underneath. I found a plastic washer intended for an oil pan drain plug that was the right size. It sealed better than the copper for me.



Terry Ingoldsby
terry.ingoldsby@DCExperts.com

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Davew70mgb Dave Windisch
Solon, IA, USA   USA
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1970 MG MGB
I saw that but it looked to me like 15 ft lb was for the center bolt of the canister. The sheet I have says "oil filter center bolt" Also notes that it's for 18G/18GA (early CBB). My engine is 18 GH and has a spin on filter. I need the spec for the filter head, the adapter part, to the block.

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Davew70mgb Dave Windisch
Solon, IA, USA   USA
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1970 MG MGB
Thanks Terry. That's what I was thinking of doing. I've got a new seal ring, bolt and washer. Just wasn't sure if there is a spec somewhere that I was missing. I've also got a spare head if all goes awry.

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ohlord Platinum Member Rob C
A tiny Island off the coast of Washington State, N.W., USA   USA
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1957 Land Rover Series I "EYEYIYI"
1957 Land Rover Series I "OVRLND"
1971 MG MGB
1971 MG MGB "Bedouin 2"    & more
12ft lb your wrench isn't that accurate so for a bolt that seals a gasket rely on "Mechanic tight" offer it up flush and give it enough to be just snug.



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mg1340 Steve Lenz
Ingleside, IL, USA   USA
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1977 MG MGB
In reply to # 2999631 by ingoldsb Just tight enough to stop it from leaking!

The housing is made of aluminum, and with a big bolt head like that it is tempting to overtorque it - possibly breaking the casting. The good news is that there is some give in the rubber which provides protection against this.

My advice is to tighten it a little beyond snug, then observe if it leaks. If so, tighten a little more and recheck.

Where I've had leakage is on the bolt head. Make sure you have a copper or plastic washer underneath. I found a plastic washer intended for an oil pan drain plug that was the right size. It sealed better than the copper for me.

The tip about using a plastic washer rather than the copper one is sound advice. I chased that leak/drip for a while until trying the plastic. It worked!

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Speedracer Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Hap Waldrop
Taylors, SC, USA   USA
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1967 MG MGB Racecar "The Biscuit"
Yep, just GAS specs (good and snug) as mentioned any attempt to over torque this bolt could result in damage to the filter housing. To add to that a 1/2" torque wrench would be useless at such a low torque value, anything less then 25 foot pounds, you would be well advised to put your torque wrench back in the tool box smiling smiley



Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
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hapwaldrop@acmespeedshop.com


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dbster Avatar
dbster Gold Member Jeff K.
Hartford, CT, USA   USA
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1978 MG MGB "Little Red Car"
I started a recent thread on a similar topic for my 78. My issue was how to get the old gasket out of the engine block (solved with lots of spraying brake cleaner on the petrified gasket remains and waiting a few hours). In my thread someone posted the torque - 12 to 15 I think he said - as a related helpful hint.

Now my issue is a drip every five seconds from the Whitworth size nut where you had to take the rubber hose off the filter adapter before removing it.

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dickmoritz Platinum Member Dick Moritz
Philly 'burbs, PA, USA   USA
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In reply to # 2999845 by dbster
Now my issue is a drip every five seconds from the Whitworth size nut where you had to take the rubber hose off the filter adapter before removing it.

Try loosening the fitting and rotating the hose end fitting a little so that it is square to the oil filter adapter. Sometimes that will help the ball-shaped fitting end seat a little better, and may also dislodge any tiny bit of debris that may be trapped between the hose fitting and the oil filter adapter.

Dick



Errabundi Saepe, Semper Certi
(Often wrong, but always certain)

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dickmoritz Avatar
dickmoritz Platinum Member Dick Moritz
Philly 'burbs, PA, USA   USA
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Dave,

Be absolutely certain that there's not an old square-cut o-ring hiding in the recess where the oil filter adapter mounts. These tend to petrify over time, and can easily be overlooked when R&R-ing the oil filter adapter. You can use a punch or awl and a MFH tp dig out old o-rings, and make sure you see shiny metal when you're done...

Dick



Errabundi Saepe, Semper Certi
(Often wrong, but always certain)

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Davew70mgb Dave Windisch
Solon, IA, USA   USA
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1970 MG MGB
Thanks everyone. Some sound advice here. I'm still waiting for parts delivery so later this week I'll be at it.

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Dell-WA Delbert Golightly
spanaway, WA, USA   USA
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Dave...............When I was mechanizing fer BMW dealer, the spec was "German Virgin.....goot'n'tite" (grin) ..........Dell

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Speedracer Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Hap Waldrop
Taylors, SC, USA   USA
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1967 MG MGB Racecar "The Biscuit"
Yep, the old o rings get petrified, I use a pick to get them out, a thin bladed knife would work too.



Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
Website: www.acmespeedshop.com
hapwaldrop@acmespeedshop.com


Member Services:
MG/ Triumph Performance Street Engines - Cylinder Head Porting for street performance and race - DIY Engine Rebuild Kits With Free Tech Advice - VTO alloy wheels for British Sports Cars, and others
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