MG Midget Forum
New clutch, oil seals and things
Posted by TFpyro
TFpyro
Todd Faubert
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Topic Creator (OP)
Jun 22, 2017 03:39 PM
Joined 8 years ago
121 Posts
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Today I started the task of a clutch change. Everything is disconnected and the pull will happen tomorrow. I will also install new gaskets, oil seals, release bearing and master and slave clutch cylinders. While it is all apart I will have that small leak in the rad repaired and clean up the engine bay. I'm a little concerned about the prop shaft refit as I've read how little fun there is to be had.
Any tips or tricks regarding the whole project?
Hopefully I and the car survive.
Any tips or tricks regarding the whole project?
Hopefully I and the car survive.
AN5L8016
Mark Haynes
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Jun 22, 2017 04:30 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 11 years ago
1,446 Posts
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How I reinstall the Engine/Trans- Once I have the assembly on the cherry picker, I slide the prop shaft down the trans tunnel form the engine bay leaving about a foot hanging out. Then as I lower the engine and trans in using an engine leveler, I slide the prop shaft into the trans before things get too tight, and use the prop shaft to help keep the assembly from rotating as I slide it all in. CAVEAT!!:: the flange on the diff end of the prop shaft WILL get hung up on the lip at the end of the tunnel, make sure that you can access it either from outside or (easier) through the shifter hole. Then after its all installed, you pull the flange back onto the diff and bolt it back up. no muss, no fuss, no reaching down the trans tunnel.
Another tip-the bolts that come up through the framework and hold the trans mount in place can be a bear. I use the tapered end of a lady' slipper to through one hole to move the mount while I get a bolt into the other.
HTH,
'58 Bugeye
'05 Mini Cooper S
Another tip-the bolts that come up through the framework and hold the trans mount in place can be a bear. I use the tapered end of a lady' slipper to through one hole to move the mount while I get a bolt into the other.
HTH,
'58 Bugeye
'05 Mini Cooper S
Jun 22, 2017 06:06 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 15 years ago
9,735 Posts
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To avoid hanging up on the flange at the rear of the tunnel I don't pull it so far forward, instead I install the drive shaft through the shifter hole when the engine is about 6~12" from being fully in.
Another thing I highly recommend, besides inserting the drive shaft, either by Mark's method or by mine is: fully assemble and bleed the clutch system BEFORE you begin to fit the engine to the car.
Zip tie the slave plunger all of the way in, make sure the bleed nipple is at the highest point, and use very little pressure to bleed. No bubbles, easy first time, and no need to be a contortionist to bleed it later.
Then, when inserting the driveshaft into the rear of the transmission, you bolt the (fully bled and ready to go) slave to the side of the transmission.
N
Another thing I highly recommend, besides inserting the drive shaft, either by Mark's method or by mine is: fully assemble and bleed the clutch system BEFORE you begin to fit the engine to the car.
Zip tie the slave plunger all of the way in, make sure the bleed nipple is at the highest point, and use very little pressure to bleed. No bubbles, easy first time, and no need to be a contortionist to bleed it later.
Then, when inserting the driveshaft into the rear of the transmission, you bolt the (fully bled and ready to go) slave to the side of the transmission.
N
TFpyro
Todd Faubert
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Topic Creator (OP)
Jun 23, 2017 11:35 AM
Joined 8 years ago
121 Posts
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