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Need help please. How do you remove the brake/ clutch master cylinder?? 1866 midget. I removed one bolt in the front but its not loose yet.

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midgetdog Ron T
sacramemto, CA, USA   USA
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I Have a project 1966 midget and the master cylinder is not working so I thought i would remove it and see if its re-buildable. This is the master cylinder that has two plungers, one for the brakes and another for the clutch all in one unit. its sort of rectangular shaped. I removed one long bolt in the front that ran through the master cylinder and bracket thinking that would release it but it still seems stuck. Am I missing something? is there another bolt somewhere?? If anyone could give me a tip on how to remove this thing I would appreciate it...THANKS!!

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refisk Rick Fisk
Frankenmuth, MI, USA   USA
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There is a second bolt the same size as the one you removed accessible from inside the car in the footwell.

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midgetdog Ron T
sacramemto, CA, USA   USA
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Hey Rick...thanks for your reply and i do see it now....but there is a metal L shaped rail on each side of the bolt ...so the bolt will not slide out...what do I do?...do I take off one of those rails so I can slide the bolt out?..or is there another way??

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refisk Rick Fisk
Frankenmuth, MI, USA   USA
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Hi Ron,

I haven't removed one of these in some time and forgot the procedure. Anyways, what you have to do is disconnect both the clutch and brake lines from the master and then remove the entire pedal assembly. Remove the screws holding the assembly to the footwell and then you can turn it sideways to get the pedals through the hole. Easier than it sounds.

Then you can get at that second bolt. grinning smiley

In reply to # 2953385 by midgetdog Hey Rick...thanks for your reply and i do see it now....but there is a metal L shaped rail on each side of the bolt ...so the bolt will not slide out...what do I do?...do I take off one of those rails so I can slide the bolt out?..or is there another way??

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Sprite1956 Roger Parry-Jones
Melbourne, Victoria, Australia   AUS
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I'm impressed. I love old cars but a Midget from just after the Civil War would be a rare find!

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midgetdog Ron T
sacramemto, CA, USA   USA
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hahaha..yea...I should wear my glasses when posting....

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Billm Gold Member Bill Masquelier
Santee, CA, USA   USA
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When you trassemble the tray you need to put that lower big-bolt back in the SAME direction that it was in, otherwise you won't be able to fit it in
BillM

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midgetdog Ron T
sacramemto, CA, USA   USA
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Hey Bill....so I need to remove the entire tray that the master cylinder sits inside of, right? so I take out all the bolts around the tray? then take it out and remove the master cylinder then re-install with the bolt in the same direction.....I hope this thing is rebuildable...the prices are pretty big for a replacement.

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Ron,
Contact Gerard (pixelsmithusa) At http://gerardsgarage.com/ he's a member and vendor here.
He rebuilds these masters to top specs.

Here's a link to his rebuilds.
http://gerardsgarage.com/Garage/Tech/DbrakeUg.htm

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Billm Gold Member Bill Masquelier
Santee, CA, USA   USA
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Yes to both above-
You need to (or it is REALLY better to) take out the whole tray and pull the master off when it is out
Gerard's rebuild service cannot be beat! It is about the cost of a new one but MUCH better and lasts a very long time!
BillM

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littlecars David Bassett
Nashville, TN, USA   USA
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1963 Chevrolet Corvair "Cheeto!"
1965 Chevrolet Corvair "Ski Team Transport SOLD!"
1965 MG Midget MkII "Buffoon --- SOLD!!!"
1966 MG Midget MkII "Swiss Cheese...SCRAPPED"    & more
It's a pain even with the pedal box out. Everything appears to either be hidden even out in the open!

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7mg2 Andrew Hardie
Calgary, AB, Canada   CAN
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1969 MG MGC GT "Mr "C"
1972 MG Midget MkIII
In reply to # 2954111 by littlecars It's a pain even with the pedal box out. Everything appears to either be hidden even out in the open!

From my extensive experience, the whole car is made up of pieces that are hidden...............even out in the open.



Andy

NAMGBR# 20-7738

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Sprite1956 Roger Parry-Jones
Melbourne, Victoria, Australia   AUS
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I've just stripped down the master cylinders on my latest project (Mk3 Midget) to find heavily rusted bores. Standard replacements for the old Lockheed master's are no longer available here except from NOS importers. They have scary prices. I got a quote from a repair shop for stainless steel sleeving. Although stainless steel should never fail, at $220 a cylinder that's not cheap. You see they have to unsolder the old tin can reservoirs off the piston area, sleeve, rebore and polish and then re-solder the cans back on. New brake lines are need too. The wasps have been nesting again!

Good luck!

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