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Manifold Studs ( Length )

Moss Motors
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Spitz Avatar
Spitz Matthew T
PA, SK, Canada   CAN
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I have an exhaust manifold here in which I would like to spot weld some studs to ( bolts ) at the downpipe flange

My present manifold....I used nuts and bolts, and it was a right pain in the arse,

Can someone please measure the length of the protruding studs...the length below the flange....not the entire length.
I know if they are too long it wont work....too short....same thing

Next time I have it off, I will be installing this one ( my flange gasket is leaking anyway )

Thanks

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ErnieY Avatar
ErnieY Ernie Y
Albatera, Alicante, Spain   ESP
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For all practical purposes you cannot weld to cast iron.

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Spitz Avatar
Spitz Matthew T
PA, SK, Canada   CAN
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Well poop....plan B then
I would still like that measurement though.

Thanks

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Spitz Matthew T
PA, SK, Canada   CAN
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Well that was quite a rude PM Mr. Tanner

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ErnieY Avatar
ErnieY Ernie Y
Albatera, Alicante, Spain   ESP
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Real part # CHS2513 and 1 5/8" long.


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Boris67MGB Richard Boris
Kings Park. NY 11754, USA   USA
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1967 MG MGB
Best bet: buy stainless studs & use brass nuts; & you will never have a problem. I did that 20 years ago & haven't looked back & experience frozen/rusted fasteners since then.

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Spitz Avatar
Spitz Matthew T
PA, SK, Canada   CAN
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Thanks for that part #... may well order.

Apart from the one idiotic PM, thanks for the responses.

Reason for the question is, I will be needing to replace the gaskets, so thought I would rather not deal with nuts and bolts when reassembling. Tough to measure while installed, plus, I'm guessing the manifold threads are done for...as my replacement has nuts and bolts also....presently resting in PB blaster.

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favedave David Church
Saint Joseph, MO, USA   USA
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1967 MG MGB GT "Marilyn"
1967 MG MGB GT "Marilyn"
1995 Ford Probe "The Probe"
1995 Ford Probe
I've done it both ways, with the studs and nuts and with flange bolts. The six (6) Flange bolts are easier to install and remove, which I just did for my S/C install. I've had no leaks between the bottom of the header and the 2 into 1 down pipe. The donut gaskets sealed perfectly. Chase all the threads with a tap and use anti-seize, and torque them all equally to about 20lbs and you should be fine.

Replacing the intake/exhaust manifold studs and brass nuts on the head proved a bit more problematic. The two (2) short studs on either end of the head, and the four (4) studs for securing the cast iron header and supercharger intake have the same fine threading on both ends, so you won't find them in most parts stores. It's Moss (me) or one of the other usual suspects for those. Thankfully they are cheap, even including shipping. Again, running a tap into all of the holes in the head is great insurance for a tight seal...

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RonnieMac Gold Member Ron McDonald
Rosthern, SK, Canada   CAN
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1952 MG TD
1971 MG MGB
In reply to # 2999595 by Spitz Thanks for that part #... may well order.


I have six of the CHS2513 here in Rosthern if you're passing by - or I'll be in PA next week.

You might consider using bolts on the outer two positions on the manifold. I understand that those positions are more subject to damage.



1952 MGTD 15539
1971 MGB GHN5UB237226

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ErnieY Avatar
ErnieY Ernie Y
Albatera, Alicante, Spain   ESP
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In reply to # 2999595 by Spitz Apart from the one idiotic PM
Now I wonder who that might have been from grinning smiley

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