MGB & GT Forum
Making jacking point brace
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Wrightstown, NJ, USA
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May 29, 2015 11:25 PM
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 Joined 12 years ago
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Frankly you're better off not using the jacking points, they are for purists and those who thrive on taking chances, chuck a scissor jack in the boot and if you need to change a wheel just jack that corner.
Also, and forgive me here, if you need to ask how many welds to use I would suggest that the job may be beyond your current skill level and furthermore, if you want or need to learn about welding replacing jacking points is probably the very worst item you could possibly choose to practice on !
Finally, if you are determined to replace/fit them then the idea of fabricating them yourself when they cost a mere $8.90 to buy (Moss 458-470) is, IMO, a bit bonkers
Also, and forgive me here, if you need to ask how many welds to use I would suggest that the job may be beyond your current skill level and furthermore, if you want or need to learn about welding replacing jacking points is probably the very worst item you could possibly choose to practice on !
Finally, if you are determined to replace/fit them then the idea of fabricating them yourself when they cost a mere $8.90 to buy (Moss 458-470) is, IMO, a bit bonkers
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Wrightstown, NJ, USA
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I should clarify, this is the brace inside the sill that is welded to the castle rail and inner sill (see picture). The piece made out of tubing and welded to the crossmember is still there however somewhat pited.
I should also probably say that I've welded before. I had two years of metal shop in highschool. That's not to say I'm an expert, far from it and out of practice. Working on cars is my hobby and restoring the GT was the next step along with a nice activity to enjoy with my girlfriend.
The rockers on the car are bad. There was almost no castle rail left and it was certainly not structural anymore. The front half of the inner sill was also non-existant as was the membrane. The floors also had lots of holes. So far the driver side seems to be the worst on the car for some reason.
I should also probably say that I've welded before. I had two years of metal shop in highschool. That's not to say I'm an expert, far from it and out of practice. Working on cars is my hobby and restoring the GT was the next step along with a nice activity to enjoy with my girlfriend.
The rockers on the car are bad. There was almost no castle rail left and it was certainly not structural anymore. The front half of the inner sill was also non-existant as was the membrane. The floors also had lots of holes. So far the driver side seems to be the worst on the car for some reason.
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May 30, 2015 01:28 AM
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Joined 12 years ago
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That clarifies a lot Corey and it seems we both misread you because you did of course say braces in your post !
I stand by my comments about jacking points though and if you decide to not fit them then you don't need the braces either
I stand by my comments about jacking points though and if you decide to not fit them then you don't need the braces either
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Wrightstown, NJ, USA
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Interesting that you brought up the notion of not using the jacking point for jacking up the car. In searching for a mechanical drawing for that piece I ran into a book on MGB development. I read that there was a test of that jacking points strength. As this was an early version of the car that brace piece was not yet thought of so there was nothing inside the sill. Apparently the car was able to be jacked up on the side of road without the structure collapsing; but when someone sat on the sill a gave a little bounce it was later discovered that the sill had crushed.
Here's a link, I found it very fascinating reading that while looking for a drawing to make the brace the engineers came up with
Here's a link, I found it very fascinating reading that while looking for a drawing to make the brace the engineers came up with
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May 30, 2015 04:23 AM
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 La Center, WA, USA
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1941 Ford N-Series
1958 MG MGA 1500 Coupe "Rosie" 1970 MG MGB GT "Pat's GT" 1971 MG MGB "Gifted To Me" & more |
May 30, 2015 09:48 AM
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 Joined 15 years ago
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"However I do use this location sometimes for my garage hydraulic jack and then the door can not be opened. So my sills are under quite a stress."
Both my Nissan 300ZX and Porsche 944 have side front & rear scissor jack (supplied with the cars) locating points. Both owners manuals call for opening the doors prior to jacking up the vehicle. Maybe all sills flex when being lifted from underneath?
Be safe out there.
Kenny
Both my Nissan 300ZX and Porsche 944 have side front & rear scissor jack (supplied with the cars) locating points. Both owners manuals call for opening the doors prior to jacking up the vehicle. Maybe all sills flex when being lifted from underneath?
Be safe out there.
Kenny
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La Center, WA, USA
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1941 Ford N-Series
1958 MG MGA 1500 Coupe "Rosie" 1970 MG MGB GT "Pat's GT" 1971 MG MGB "Gifted To Me" & more |
May 30, 2015 11:23 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 15 years ago
7,564 Posts
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"Interesting opinions on the jacking points here. Being unaware of this issue I've been using the standard jacking points with the standard jack for the 43 years that I've owned my car. Seems to work fine."
Me too. My stock side jacking points are structurally sound, and the OEM screw jack is in good condition. I use this method to rotate the tires front-to-rear. When lifting from the differential housing or the front cross member I use a standard floor jack with a cup style cradle. I always use jack stands if going under the chassis.
Be safe out there.
Kenny
Me too. My stock side jacking points are structurally sound, and the OEM screw jack is in good condition. I use this method to rotate the tires front-to-rear. When lifting from the differential housing or the front cross member I use a standard floor jack with a cup style cradle. I always use jack stands if going under the chassis.
Be safe out there.
Kenny
Attachments:
MGB Screw jack.jpg 33.6 KB
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