MGB & GT Forum
MGB Banjo Axle rear drivers side
Posted by dbernius
Topic Creator (OP)
Jul 24, 2016 02:03 PM
Joined 11 years ago
125 Posts
|
I picked up a 1966 MGB, which is seeming to have more issues then I thought.
Brining it home the Banjo Axle on the rear came out tire and all.
Luckly we were able to get the car off the side of the road and no one was hurt.
Yet my problem is now how do I get the axel all the way back in. They forgot to bolt it down from removing the rear brake rotars.
I can get it back in to the bolts but will not go past there and I have tried rotating both sides.
Any ideas before I junk the car.
Brining it home the Banjo Axle on the rear came out tire and all.
Luckly we were able to get the car off the side of the road and no one was hurt.
Yet my problem is now how do I get the axel all the way back in. They forgot to bolt it down from removing the rear brake rotars.
I can get it back in to the bolts but will not go past there and I have tried rotating both sides.
Any ideas before I junk the car.
|
Jul 24, 2016 02:20 PM
Joined 16 years ago
1,321 Posts
|
Hi Doug, have you ever owned an MG is the past - you find that most jobs / projects / repairs are pretty simple to do, any part you need is usually available, and the best part is you can get lots of advice from this site.
What are your plans for restoring it? Please send some pictures. You'll need to start someplace, and what you have described seems as best of a place as any - Do you plan to do the work yourself?
When you purchased the 66 were you planning on driving it as is; or did you concede that you needed to do certain things immediately prior to registering it? if I were you, I would sort out the basic mechanics, does the engine start and idle well, how is the clutch. How are the brakes, suspension electrical system?
It's not unusual to do a "rolling restoration", set some short term goals for safety and performance, comfort, and then focus on the details.
best of luck with the project, and no, don't junk it, show it some love instead.
Glenn
What are your plans for restoring it? Please send some pictures. You'll need to start someplace, and what you have described seems as best of a place as any - Do you plan to do the work yourself?
When you purchased the 66 were you planning on driving it as is; or did you concede that you needed to do certain things immediately prior to registering it? if I were you, I would sort out the basic mechanics, does the engine start and idle well, how is the clutch. How are the brakes, suspension electrical system?
It's not unusual to do a "rolling restoration", set some short term goals for safety and performance, comfort, and then focus on the details.
best of luck with the project, and no, don't junk it, show it some love instead.
Glenn
Jul 24, 2016 02:29 PM
Joined 9 years ago
2,626 Posts
|
Yes you mighy need to wiggle the axle around a bit to get it in. There's also a very large octagonal nut inside the hub that you will need to tighten the crap out of. Are you on the side of the road now? If so you might call for the tow truck. This takes some special tools.
dickmoritz
Dick Moritz
Philly 'burbs, PA, USA
Sign in to contact
|
Jul 24, 2016 02:32 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 14 years ago
26,272 Posts
|
Donthuis
Don van Riet
|
Jul 25, 2016 10:22 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 10 years ago
13,336 Posts
|
I just missed this type of accident years ago. Please ascertain you also have not lost the expensive, special spacer ring holding the bearing in place behind this halfshaft cover
On non-wire wheel cars they are essential for keeping the bearing from working itself loose. You will indeed need a strong socket drive to tighten this nut mentioned below: 150 lbf I thought
What I did was using a brandnew nut + locking tab and Loctite for holding the nut in place after applying a lower lbf value; I also used some Loctite filler between axle and a renewed bearing.
But for you that latter measure may not be necessary, if it was just drum + halfshaft that came out after all wheel bolts got loose at once (strange that this happened though )
On non-wire wheel cars they are essential for keeping the bearing from working itself loose. You will indeed need a strong socket drive to tighten this nut mentioned below: 150 lbf I thought
What I did was using a brandnew nut + locking tab and Loctite for holding the nut in place after applying a lower lbf value; I also used some Loctite filler between axle and a renewed bearing.
But for you that latter measure may not be necessary, if it was just drum + halfshaft that came out after all wheel bolts got loose at once (strange that this happened though )
In reply to # 3317644 by Dave W
Yes you mighy need to wiggle the axle around a bit to get it in. There's also a very large octagonal nut inside the hub that you will need to tighten the crap out of. Are you on the side of the road now? If so you might call for the tow truck. This takes some special tools.
Forums
Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster