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License plate lights.

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License plate lights.
#1
  This topic is about my 1970 MG MGB GT
Grommit55 Avatar
Grommit55 Silver Member Harry Midgley
Edmonton, AB, Canada   CAN
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1958 MG MGA 1500
1970 MG MGB GT ~ For Sale ! ~
1974 MG MGB ~ For Sale ! ~
Trying to fix another small (?) electrical issue with the GT before a road trip to Vancouver and the West Coast in two weeks.
Neither of my plate lights work so I took the LH one apart to investigate.
Started with new bulb.
Tester showed power to the wire and base of the socket.
When I insert the new bulb the bulb housing and bumper become live and light up my tester.
The GT is an old system with the light mounted on the bumper overriders.
I wonder how the bulb grounds?
Any ideas?

Cheers: Harry.

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lgorg Avatar
lgorg Larry Gorg
Renton, WA, USA   USA
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1966 MG MGB "Robbie"
Your plate lights should be the same as my plate lights on my roadster that are in the over riders. The ground is the bumper, but it sounds like you do not have a complete circuit If it were me, I would solder a black wire to the side of the socket, and run a wire into the trunk, and ground it someplace. That way, you would have a complete circuit. Disclosure: my car was manufactured in 66, and I do not have much experience with newer MGBs.

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mdubash Avatar
mdubash Manek Dubash
Lewes, East Sussex, UK   GBR
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1968 MG MGB "Odysseus"
Yes, run the ground to the boot latch - and while you're there, run grounds to/from each of the rear light clusters too - you'll get more reliable connections and possibly brighter lights too.



- If duct tape doesn't fix it - you haven't used enough duct tape

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Donthuis Avatar
Donthuis Don van Riet
Rijswijk, ZH, Netherlands   NLD
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The overriders sit on the bumper with plastic strips inbetween, so isolation of the earthing is perfectly possible. Even the whole bumper may not earth correctly on the two larger bolts, guess how I know.
Adding an earthing wire with an eyelet crimped onto and mounting this on one of the two screws holding the license plate bulb housing works fine. In my case earthing one side was enough, the other side was connected via the bumper metal after all. To be extra sure I also loosened and retorqued the two nuts on the brackets holding the bumper to the car.

PS Since converting these and other lights (head bulbs excluded) to LED's, current levels have gone down on these circuits, so more dependable connections have become more important. One of which is the electrical bypass of these strange nuts holding and earthing the rearlight assemblies to the car body. Never understood why such a ineffective construction was chosen in the first place confused smiley

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mdubash Avatar
mdubash Manek Dubash
Lewes, East Sussex, UK   GBR
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1968 MG MGB "Odysseus"
Don,

From memory, I thought the overriders were bolted to the bumper, which will be grounded. Is this not so?



- If duct tape doesn't fix it - you haven't used enough duct tape

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Donthuis Avatar
Donthuis Don van Riet
Rijswijk, ZH, Netherlands   NLD
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Yes they are, but even so oxydisation may intervene, as was the case for my strongly bolted suspension points for the whole bumper itself.
So two potential contact failure connections are in the earthing circuit in series, I just bridged both by a direct earthwire coming from a dependable earthing point behind my rear assemblies

PS There is even a third potential break in the earthing circuit between the bulb holder and its mounting shell (the one shielding the bulb at the rear).
As a precaution I already replaced all 4 screws and nuts holding both license plate lights by stainless steel ones many years ago, long before the bumper itself got isolated.... eye rolling smiley

In reply to # 3574798 by mdubash Don,

From memory, I thought the overriders were bolted to the bumper, which will be grounded. Is this not so?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-08-17 04:11 AM by Donthuis.

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Ex-Calif Avatar
Ex-Calif Gold Member Dan D
Dayton, OH, USA   USA
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1968 MG MGB GT "Bart - Yellow And Naughty"
1977 MG MGB "Red Betty"
2006 Suzuki Grand Vitara "Suzi Q"
2012 Jeep Liberty "Tommy The Tank"
I am not clear but you say you connect the tester from bumper or housing to where(?)

In the ohm scale check for continuity from the housing to the body of the car. If no continuity then you do need to run a ground strap for some reason.

If there is no continuity from the housing to the bumper then you have to run a ground from the housing. If there is then you cold run a strap from the bumper to the body. I just had to do this for a guy from the front wing to the body.

In reply to # 3574719 by Grommit55 Trying to fix another small (?) electrical issue with the GT before a road trip to Vancouver and the West Coast in two weeks.
Neither of my plate lights work so I took the LH one apart to investigate.
Started with new bulb.
Tester showed power to the wire and base of the socket.
When I insert the new bulb the bulb housing and bumper become live and light up my tester.
The GT is an old system with the light mounted on the bumper overriders.
I wonder how the bulb grounds?
Any ideas?

Cheers: Harry.



The goal - Reliable summer driver interspersed with mechanical tinkering...
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On Mods - It's your damn car - Do what you want. Haters gonna hate...
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mdubash Avatar
mdubash Manek Dubash
Lewes, East Sussex, UK   GBR
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1968 MG MGB "Odysseus"
In reply to a post by Don There is even a third potential break in the earthing circuit between the bulb holder and its mounting shell (the one shielding the bulb at the rear).

As a precaution I already replaced all 4 screws and nuts holding both license plate lights by stainless steel ones many years ago, long before the bumper itself got isolated....

Good plan! I'll add it to the list (that I thought was getting shorter). smiling smiley



- If duct tape doesn't fix it - you haven't used enough duct tape

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LENZ Avatar
LENZ Jim B
Leominster, MA, USA   USA
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1970 MG MGB GT
1974 MG MGB GT "White Lightning"
I had same issue where one light worked, nada on the other. I ran a ground to the tail light assembly screw.

jim

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Grommit55 Avatar
Grommit55 Silver Member Harry Midgley
Edmonton, AB, Canada   CAN
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1958 MG MGA 1500
1970 MG MGB GT ~ For Sale ! ~
1974 MG MGB ~ For Sale ! ~
Wow. Great Responses guys. I had guessed the current was searching for a ground.
Talking to Ken at "Brit Bits" here this afternoon and he suggested removing the bumper and cleaning all the mounting points to bare metal. But I thought, like you did, it would be simpler to just run a ground wire from each socked to a ground point in the trunk.
Will try that next.

Cheers: Harry.

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Grommit55 Avatar
Grommit55 Silver Member Harry Midgley
Edmonton, AB, Canada   CAN
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1958 MG MGA 1500
1970 MG MGB GT ~ For Sale ! ~
1974 MG MGB ~ For Sale ! ~
All done. I ran ground wires from the bolts inside the over riders to ground points in the GT's trunk and now both lights work great.
Still had trouble with the LH reverse light, but I took the lamp housing out of my MGB and when I used that the new bulb it worked.
On to the next job.

Thanks all.

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