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Is this an acceptable patch?

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RobertsMGB Avatar
RobertsMGB Gold Member Bob RobertsMGB
Berne, NY, USA   USA
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1954 MG TF
1963 MG MGB MkI
1969 MG MGB GT
1970 MG MGB
You're looking at a rusted cross member from the back on the passenger side. The cross member half repair piece isn't long enough to repair this as it doesn't even fix the rusted hole on the right. I'm thinking I'll weld a repair patch over the rusted area. Will that be an acceptable patch or do I need to do more?



Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'70 MGB
'54 MGTF #2259


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mgbanthony Avatar
mgbanthony Platinum Member Anthony Henderson
Eastern Thousand Islands, ON, Canada   CAN
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1962 MG MGB
1974 MG MGB
Looks like a candidate for the full cross member replacement panel. If the rest of it is rock solid except for this spot you could cut back to good metal and form and fit a butt welded patch. The cross member is a structural piece so should be repaired in a "good as new" way.

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herculesmgb1971 Avatar
herculesmgb1971 gerard boulanger
Hercules, CA, USA   USA
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It does not look good...

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RobertsMGB Avatar
RobertsMGB Gold Member Bob RobertsMGB
Berne, NY, USA   USA
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1954 MG TF
1963 MG MGB MkI
1969 MG MGB GT
1970 MG MGB
I wouldn't say the rest is "rock solid" but this is the only place where it's rusted through. I assume that cutting out the rust and butt welding is better than patching over top.



Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'70 MGB
'54 MGTF #2259

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rocannon Avatar
rocannon Gold Member rocannon L
Comanche County, OK, USA   USA
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1967 MG MGB GT "GT From Hell"
Robert,
If that's the front suspension crossmember, I'd first see if you can source a good replacement. That rusted crossmember is quite likely to warp and twist as you weld on it unless you control the heat very carefully.



In reply to # 2837866 by RobertsMGB You're looking at a rusted cross member from the back on the passenger side. The cross member half repair piece isn't long enough to repair this as it doesn't even fix the rusted hole on the right. I'm thinking I'll weld a repair patch over the rusted area. Will that be an acceptable patch or do I need to do more?



Pogo is right.
—————————————————————-
The power of reasons is an illusion. The belief will not change when the reasons are defeated. The causality is reversed. People believe the reasons because they believe in the conclusion.

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RobertsMGB Avatar
RobertsMGB Gold Member Bob RobertsMGB
Berne, NY, USA   USA
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1954 MG TF
1963 MG MGB MkI
1969 MG MGB GT
1970 MG MGB
No, Frank, it's not the front suspension. It's the cross member midway in the car from jack point to jack point.



Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'70 MGB
'54 MGTF #2259

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rocannon Avatar
rocannon Gold Member rocannon L
Comanche County, OK, USA   USA
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1967 MG MGB GT "GT From Hell"
Oh, what I think of as a frame rail. Can't see you'll have a problem then. Butt welded patch is the way to go.

In reply to # 2837916 by RobertsMGB No, Frank, it's not the front suspension. It's the cross member midway in the car from jack point to jack point.



Pogo is right.
—————————————————————-
The power of reasons is an illusion. The belief will not change when the reasons are defeated. The causality is reversed. People believe the reasons because they believe in the conclusion.

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Rick Fawthrop Avatar
Rick Fawthrop Gold Member Richard Fawthrop
Langley, WA, USA   USA
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Depends on what you find when it is cut open.

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dipstick Avatar
dipstick Kenny Snyder (RIP)
La Center, WA, USA   USA
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1941 Ford N-Series
1958 MG MGA 1500 Coupe "Rosie"
1970 MG MGB GT "Pat's GT"
1971 MG MGB "Gifted To Me"    & more
If you do weld it, butt then maybe fishplate, do as much of the welding as possible with the crossmember firmly bolted in place to limit distortion. After welding, however much, allow the piece to cool to room temperature prior to removing the frame rail attachment bolts. Stitch welding, 1" here, 1" over there, back and forth will help balance the weld shrinkage distortion.

Have a water bucket with a towel in it in case of fire. Button the top button on your jacket.smoking smiley



Be safe out there.
Kenny

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ErnieY Avatar
ErnieY Ernie Y
Albatera, Alicante, Spain   ESP
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It's not good but equally it's not as bad as one or two suggest and no reason why a properly welded patch shouldn't work.

If it were me though I think I'd buy a cross member from Heritage and use as much of it as was necessary do the job properly.



http://www.bmh-ltd.com/MGBFrt.htm

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Donthuis Avatar
Donthuis Don van Riet
Rijswijk, ZH, Netherlands   NLD
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I presume you won't be using the jackpoints and the factory jack anymore?!

It is a strange construction, even with a carbody in sound condition (JT warns against using it at all), let alone with these kind of body parts for support... confused smiley

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tony53 Tony Graham
Glen Alpine, Australia   AUS
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1976 MG MGB "@@#&**@"
In reply to # 2837887 by RobertsMGB I wouldn't say the rest is "rock solid" but this is the only place where it's rusted through. I assume that cutting out the rust and butt welding is better than patching over top.

Place a fillet over the top or indies to create a flange if you don't want to see it. Both add the extra strength needed

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riley1489 Gold Member Bruce H
Great White North, QC, Canada   CAN
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1953 Jaguar XK120
1959 Riley 1.5 "King George"
1973 MG MGB
Procure a new one you will be grateful. The flanges of this cross member help to locate the floor panel height, jacking points etc. It appear that you have the car pretty much stripped so go for it. winking smiley



Bruce



Life's most persistent and urgent question is, "What are you doing for others?"

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RobertsMGB Avatar
RobertsMGB Gold Member Bob RobertsMGB
Berne, NY, USA   USA
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1954 MG TF
1963 MG MGB MkI
1969 MG MGB GT
1970 MG MGB
Thanks all. Yes, much of the car is stripped because we've already replaced sills and rockers on the DS and the floor boards were going to be next. I'll have to sleep on whether to tackle replacing the entire cross member.



Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'70 MGB
'54 MGTF #2259

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mike.l mike l
tillsonburg, Canada   CAN
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1952 MG TD
1954 IHC L-Series
1954 Nuffield PM-4 Tractor
1957 Morris Tractor (Nuffield) "Little Brother"    & more
Hi if you are going to replace the floor pans then that is the time to replace the cross member as you will be undoing all of the spot welds to remove the floor just a few more on the ends to remove the cross member and then its set right for another 40 years with a little care patch welding is only temporary at best mike

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