MGB & GT Forum
Is this an acceptable patch?
Posted by RobertsMGB
RobertsMGB
Bob RobertsMGB
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Topic Creator (OP)
Oct 29, 2014 08:08 PM
Joined 18 years ago
877 Posts
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You're looking at a rusted cross member from the back on the passenger side. The cross member half repair piece isn't long enough to repair this as it doesn't even fix the rusted hole on the right. I'm thinking I'll weld a repair patch over the rusted area. Will that be an acceptable patch or do I need to do more?
Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'70 MGB
'54 MGTF #2259
Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'70 MGB
'54 MGTF #2259
mgbanthony
Anthony Henderson
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Oct 29, 2014 08:21 PM
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Joined 18 years ago
13,235 Posts
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Looks like a candidate for the full cross member replacement panel. If the rest of it is rock solid except for this spot you could cut back to good metal and form and fit a butt welded patch. The cross member is a structural piece so should be repaired in a "good as new" way.
herculesmgb1971
gerard boulanger
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Oct 29, 2014 08:25 PM
Joined 12 years ago
924 Posts
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RobertsMGB
Bob RobertsMGB
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Topic Creator (OP)
Oct 29, 2014 08:26 PM
Joined 18 years ago
877 Posts
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I wouldn't say the rest is "rock solid" but this is the only place where it's rusted through. I assume that cutting out the rust and butt welding is better than patching over top.
Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'70 MGB
'54 MGTF #2259
Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'70 MGB
'54 MGTF #2259
Oct 29, 2014 08:45 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 14 years ago
12,650 Posts
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Robert,
If that's the front suspension crossmember, I'd first see if you can source a good replacement. That rusted crossmember is quite likely to warp and twist as you weld on it unless you control the heat very carefully.
Pogo is right.
—————————————————————-
The power of reasons is an illusion. The belief will not change when the reasons are defeated. The causality is reversed. People believe the reasons because they believe in the conclusion.
If that's the front suspension crossmember, I'd first see if you can source a good replacement. That rusted crossmember is quite likely to warp and twist as you weld on it unless you control the heat very carefully.
In reply to # 2837866 by RobertsMGB
You're looking at a rusted cross member from the back on the passenger side. The cross member half repair piece isn't long enough to repair this as it doesn't even fix the rusted hole on the right. I'm thinking I'll weld a repair patch over the rusted area. Will that be an acceptable patch or do I need to do more?
Pogo is right.
—————————————————————-
The power of reasons is an illusion. The belief will not change when the reasons are defeated. The causality is reversed. People believe the reasons because they believe in the conclusion.
RobertsMGB
Bob RobertsMGB
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Topic Creator (OP)
Oct 29, 2014 08:50 PM
Joined 18 years ago
877 Posts
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Oct 29, 2014 09:02 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 14 years ago
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Oh, what I think of as a frame rail. Can't see you'll have a problem then. Butt welded patch is the way to go.
Pogo is right.
—————————————————————-
The power of reasons is an illusion. The belief will not change when the reasons are defeated. The causality is reversed. People believe the reasons because they believe in the conclusion.
In reply to # 2837916 by RobertsMGB
No, Frank, it's not the front suspension. It's the cross member midway in the car from jack point to jack point.
Pogo is right.
—————————————————————-
The power of reasons is an illusion. The belief will not change when the reasons are defeated. The causality is reversed. People believe the reasons because they believe in the conclusion.
Rick Fawthrop
Richard Fawthrop
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Oct 29, 2014 10:46 PM
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dipstick
Kenny Snyder (RIP)
La Center, WA, USA
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1941 Ford N-Series
1958 MG MGA 1500 Coupe "Rosie" 1970 MG MGB GT "Pat's GT" 1971 MG MGB "Gifted To Me" & more |
Oct 29, 2014 11:16 PM
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If you do weld it, butt then maybe fishplate, do as much of the welding as possible with the crossmember firmly bolted in place to limit distortion. After welding, however much, allow the piece to cool to room temperature prior to removing the frame rail attachment bolts. Stitch welding, 1" here, 1" over there, back and forth will help balance the weld shrinkage distortion.
Have a water bucket with a towel in it in case of fire. Button the top button on your jacket.
Be safe out there.
Kenny
Have a water bucket with a towel in it in case of fire. Button the top button on your jacket.
Be safe out there.
Kenny
Oct 30, 2014 02:17 AM
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Joined 12 years ago
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It's not good but equally it's not as bad as one or two suggest and no reason why a properly welded patch shouldn't work.
If it were me though I think I'd buy a cross member from Heritage and use as much of it as was necessary do the job properly.
http://www.bmh-ltd.com/MGBFrt.htm
If it were me though I think I'd buy a cross member from Heritage and use as much of it as was necessary do the job properly.
http://www.bmh-ltd.com/MGBFrt.htm
Donthuis
Don van Riet
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Oct 30, 2014 05:46 AM
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Oct 30, 2014 05:46 AM
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In reply to # 2837887 by RobertsMGB
I wouldn't say the rest is "rock solid" but this is the only place where it's rusted through. I assume that cutting out the rust and butt welding is better than patching over top.
Place a fillet over the top or indies to create a flange if you don't want to see it. Both add the extra strength needed
Oct 30, 2014 06:54 AM
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Procure a new one you will be grateful. The flanges of this cross member help to locate the floor panel height, jacking points etc. It appear that you have the car pretty much stripped so go for it.
Bruce
Life's most persistent and urgent question is, "What are you doing for others?"
Bruce
Life's most persistent and urgent question is, "What are you doing for others?"
RobertsMGB
Bob RobertsMGB
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Topic Creator (OP)
Oct 30, 2014 08:02 AM
Joined 18 years ago
877 Posts
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Thanks all. Yes, much of the car is stripped because we've already replaced sills and rockers on the DS and the floor boards were going to be next. I'll have to sleep on whether to tackle replacing the entire cross member.
Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'70 MGB
'54 MGTF #2259
Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'70 MGB
'54 MGTF #2259
mike.l
mike l
tillsonburg, Canada
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1952 MG TD
1954 IHC L-Series 1954 Nuffield PM-4 Tractor 1957 Morris Tractor (Nuffield) "Little Brother" & more |
Oct 30, 2014 08:28 AM
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Hi if you are going to replace the floor pans then that is the time to replace the cross member as you will be undoing all of the spot welds to remove the floor just a few more on the ends to remove the cross member and then its set right for another 40 years with a little care patch welding is only temporary at best mike
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