MG Midget Forum
Headlight Switch Doesn't Work?
Posted by VC venezia
VC venezia
Vito Venezia
Calistoga, CA, USA
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Jul 29, 2015 12:26 PM
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Hello, all. The headlight switch on my Midget's dashboard doesn't seem to turn on the low beams. The high beams work when I move the spricket on the left, however. The previous Owner of this MG Midget said that the lights used to work, but then they suddenly stopped. Is this a switch problem or are the low beam bulbs out?
If it is the switch, how would I get into the dashboard to check the wire connection?
Thanks
If it is the switch, how would I get into the dashboard to check the wire connection?
Thanks
randykieling
Randy Kieling
Grants Pass, OR, USA
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1957 Renault Next "Pierre"
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Quasi1960
Ian H
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Jul 30, 2015 06:27 AM
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Monsantiqu
Anthony S
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Jul 30, 2015 08:42 AM
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Vito, taking off the switch is not hard at all. Take your time and be patient.
The best thing to do is look at a spare switch and the securing clip while it is outside the car to see how it works. It is actually a clever design which keeps a constant tension on the switch, thus keeping it securely fastened to the dash.
To remove, use a long probe and insert it behind the dash on the side of the switch between the clip and the switch. You will have to "feel" your way around. Do this on both sides and the clip will come off. You can now pull the switch from the front while pushing it from the back. The switch is not to hard to access as it is on the right unencumbered by the steering column. Once if is free, remove the plug and test the switch. I guess you could use a multimeter. Better yet replace the switch and install a RELAY. You will never have to worry about your headlights again.
Installing is easy. Just reinstall plug, push in switch, and with your fingers, push the clip back on. You will feel a positive click where the clip fastens on the sides of the switch. I have the same car as you and I have replaced the fan and headlight switch. Nowhere as difficult as others seem to make it. Yes, these cars sometimes require imagination and great dexterity because you must visualize what you are doing as you are working in areas you can't actually see.
The best thing to do is look at a spare switch and the securing clip while it is outside the car to see how it works. It is actually a clever design which keeps a constant tension on the switch, thus keeping it securely fastened to the dash.
To remove, use a long probe and insert it behind the dash on the side of the switch between the clip and the switch. You will have to "feel" your way around. Do this on both sides and the clip will come off. You can now pull the switch from the front while pushing it from the back. The switch is not to hard to access as it is on the right unencumbered by the steering column. Once if is free, remove the plug and test the switch. I guess you could use a multimeter. Better yet replace the switch and install a RELAY. You will never have to worry about your headlights again.
Installing is easy. Just reinstall plug, push in switch, and with your fingers, push the clip back on. You will feel a positive click where the clip fastens on the sides of the switch. I have the same car as you and I have replaced the fan and headlight switch. Nowhere as difficult as others seem to make it. Yes, these cars sometimes require imagination and great dexterity because you must visualize what you are doing as you are working in areas you can't actually see.
littlecars
David Bassett
Nashville, TN, USA
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1963 Chevrolet Corvair "Cheeto!"
1965 Chevrolet Corvair "Ski Team Transport SOLD!" 1965 MG Midget MkII "Buffoon --- SOLD!!!" 1966 MG Midget MkII "Swiss Cheese...SCRAPPED" & more |
Jul 30, 2015 01:08 PM
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Really? I've found the light switch to be the worst of the three toggles on a pillow dash car. Lots of stuff in the way to return it to its location too.
Vito, be careful of the green plastic at the top which illuminate the switches at night. That piece is glued in and over the years can fall right out as you are fiddling with the switch. The other day, when operating my lights the little green piece fell and got lodged to where my lights couldn't be deactivated until I bumped it lightly with a rubber mallet.
Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 2015-07-30 01:12 PM by littlecars.
Vito, be careful of the green plastic at the top which illuminate the switches at night. That piece is glued in and over the years can fall right out as you are fiddling with the switch. The other day, when operating my lights the little green piece fell and got lodged to where my lights couldn't be deactivated until I bumped it lightly with a rubber mallet.
Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 2015-07-30 01:12 PM by littlecars.
73midget
Chris Edwards
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Jul 30, 2015 01:46 PM
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some additional thoughts: 1. disconnect the battery first!!! The power lead to the headlights is always hot and is not fused. If the insulation is missing (thanks to a previous or current careless owner) and that wire touches the metal of the dashboard while you are pushing it through to the front you will get a powerful and potentially damaging spark. <Ask me how i know!
2. if you are not a wiring wiz, there are relay kits that are highly recommended. for myself, I understand what relays do but cannot keep straight how to fit them up without a diagram. I went for this kit (sold by a forum member) http://www.bits4brits.net/Relays.html which I enthusiastically endorse. super easy to fit.
2. if you are not a wiring wiz, there are relay kits that are highly recommended. for myself, I understand what relays do but cannot keep straight how to fit them up without a diagram. I went for this kit (sold by a forum member) http://www.bits4brits.net/Relays.html which I enthusiastically endorse. super easy to fit.
littlecars
David Bassett
Nashville, TN, USA
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1963 Chevrolet Corvair "Cheeto!"
1965 Chevrolet Corvair "Ski Team Transport SOLD!" 1965 MG Midget MkII "Buffoon --- SOLD!!!" 1966 MG Midget MkII "Swiss Cheese...SCRAPPED" & more |
Jul 30, 2015 01:54 PM
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Also, Dave Dubois http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/othertecharticles.html makes a "set and forget" relay for your brake lights. Easy peesy to install for under $20!
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2015-07-30 01:59 PM by littlecars.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2015-07-30 01:59 PM by littlecars.
Monsantiqu
Anthony S
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Jul 30, 2015 03:47 PM
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Right, simply replace the old crumbling switch with a new one. Sorry Vito, I forgot to mention the light bulb, simply push it into the molded holder before pushing the switch back in! Vito, if you are good with your hands you won't have a problem. Again, it is invaluable to have a spare switch and a clip in your hand so you can see how they connect. Your efforts will be so much easier once you know what you are up against!
Tony
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2015-07-30 03:51 PM by Monsantiqu.
Tony
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2015-07-30 03:51 PM by Monsantiqu.
Monsantiqu
Anthony S
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Jul 30, 2015 04:07 PM
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David, I bought this brake light relay from Dave. 1.5 years and no problem. My car is a daily driver, so I am a believer in relays. Previously the brake light switch fried in 5 months. Don't forget to solder the capacitor Dave recommends across the switch terminals.
Jul 30, 2015 04:35 PM
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Brake switch fried in 5 months? Hmmm, mine is 56 years old. But then my wiring system is in good shape.
In reply to # 3050219 by Monsantiqu
David, I bought this brake light relay from Dave. 1.5 years and no problem. My car is a daily driver, so I am a believer in relays. Previously the brake light switch fried in 5 months. Don't forget to solder the capacitor Dave recommends across the switch terminals.
Monsantiqu
Anthony S
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Jul 30, 2015 04:44 PM
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Rick, relax. My original switch stopped working after 40 years. I replaced it with a new (nowhere near as good as original) replacement. My wiring is otherwise in great shape. The new switches don't handle the amps well and dont last without the help of a relay. So in went the relay. The rest is history. Mechanically it is fine and meshes well with the brake pedal like the original otherwise.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2015-07-30 04:48 PM by Monsantiqu.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2015-07-30 04:48 PM by Monsantiqu.
littlecars
David Bassett
Nashville, TN, USA
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1963 Chevrolet Corvair "Cheeto!"
1965 Chevrolet Corvair "Ski Team Transport SOLD!" 1965 MG Midget MkII "Buffoon --- SOLD!!!" 1966 MG Midget MkII "Swiss Cheese...SCRAPPED" & more |
Jul 30, 2015 04:45 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 12 years ago
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In reply to # 3050219 by Monsantiqu
David, I bought this brake light relay from Dave. 1.5 years and no problem. My car is a daily driver, so I am a believer in relays. Previously the brake light switch fried in 5 months. Don't forget to solder the capacitor Dave recommends across the switch terminals.
I had Dubois do that for me.
Sounds about right, 5 months. In my case I followed the factory manual and used the switch to adjust my brake pedal height. BIG MISTAKE. The heavy metal, sprung pedal did a number on the soft metal nib on the light switch. The switch never had a chance with that much weight sitting on it 50% of the time. I've learned to live with my clutch and brake pedals being uneven by about 2 inches.
And yes, I have pudgy fingers that don't like fiddling all that much behind the dash.
Jul 30, 2015 05:26 PM
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I'm relaxed. My 56 year old switch still works. But that 40 year old British Phlegm Sucking Leyland stuff, not so much.
In reply to # 3050247 by Monsantiqu
Rick, relax. My original switch stopped working after 40 years. I replaced it with a new (nowhere near as good as original) replacement. My wiring is otherwise in great shape. The new switches don't handle the amps well and dont last without the help of a relay. So in went the relay. The rest is history. Mechanically it is fine and meshes well with the brake pedal like the original otherwise.
VC venezia
Vito Venezia
Calistoga, CA, USA
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Topic Creator (OP)
Jul 31, 2015 01:43 AM
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Monsantiqu
Anthony S
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Jul 31, 2015 09:23 AM
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