MGB & GT Forum
Dura bond camshaft bearings - solved
Posted by MGB567
Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 17, 2014 12:10 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 13 years ago
32,530 Posts
|
My research tells me Dura bond is the way to go. Trouble is I'm having a hard time finding them at a reasonable P&H eg M-E wants GBP25 to send (Bearings are GBP20); BPNW wants $28 for bearings and $27 for P&H; Bhive won't send etc.
It seems that Dura bond's part numbers is DA-2 but Google keeps coming up with that number being for a Nissan 4cyl truck '61-'91 - could that truck have the same size cam as the B?
(My daughter's on her honeymoon in the US but I'm sure if they're passing an appropriate auto shop they'd buy them for me but I need the correct Dura bond part number and the Nissan reference is confusing me.)
Basil's posted me some won't need to interrupt my daughter
Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Lots more as I did a nut and bolt rebuild; finished 2015. Tartan Red.
GT: December '78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances. Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators & Mk1 rear lights. 'Worked' Rover V8 with Monsoon ECU for EFI. GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-04-17 03:06 AM by MGB567.
It seems that Dura bond's part numbers is DA-2 but Google keeps coming up with that number being for a Nissan 4cyl truck '61-'91 - could that truck have the same size cam as the B?
(My daughter's on her honeymoon in the US but I'm sure if they're passing an appropriate auto shop they'd buy them for me but I need the correct Dura bond part number and the Nissan reference is confusing me.)
Basil's posted me some won't need to interrupt my daughter
Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Lots more as I did a nut and bolt rebuild; finished 2015. Tartan Red.
GT: December '78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances. Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators & Mk1 rear lights. 'Worked' Rover V8 with Monsoon ECU for EFI. GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-04-17 03:06 AM by MGB567.
Apr 17, 2014 12:49 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 20 years ago
32,152 Posts
|
About 12 miles from Sears Point, CA, USA
Sign in to contact
|
Apr 17, 2014 01:22 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 17 years ago
12,249 Posts
|
Barrie, PM sent. Basil
Basil C. Adams
1956 MGA Coupe (Show Car)
1957 MGA Roadster (Driver)
1958 MGA Coupe (Racecar)
1959 MGA Coupe (unrestored)
1960 MGA Coupe (unrestored)
1960 MGA Roadster (Driver)
MKIII Elva Courier (E1056)
1967 427 Cobra
1972 Alfa Romeo Montreal
A coupla late MGBs
1960 Austin Healy BN7
More Cars than Brains
Basil C. Adams
1956 MGA Coupe (Show Car)
1957 MGA Roadster (Driver)
1958 MGA Coupe (Racecar)
1959 MGA Coupe (unrestored)
1960 MGA Coupe (unrestored)
1960 MGA Roadster (Driver)
MKIII Elva Courier (E1056)
1967 427 Cobra
1972 Alfa Romeo Montreal
A coupla late MGBs
1960 Austin Healy BN7
More Cars than Brains
Speedracer
Hap Waldrop
|
Apr 17, 2014 07:40 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 17 years ago
43,606 Posts
|
Yes some Datsun engines used the same cam journal size as the MGB, this is why some MGB racers used Datsun cam cores in the MGB race engines, because the engine had a much better oil pump drive gear, that held up better to racing rpms. The Datsun cams and drive gears are pretty close to being a "bolt in" in the MGB block.
The AE cam bearing is as good of quality as the Durabond, meaning it is a good quality full circle, non split cam bearing, but we in the US prefer the Durabond brand, simply because we can get a better deal on them. I can remember a time when certain vendors upsold Durabond cam bearing for MGBs for a greater selling price, because they were yet to recognized by the mass vendors, but once that happen, competition took over, and the price dropped.
Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
Website: www.acmespeedshop.com
hapwaldrop@acmespeedshop.com
Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 2014-04-17 07:45 AM by Speedracer.
The AE cam bearing is as good of quality as the Durabond, meaning it is a good quality full circle, non split cam bearing, but we in the US prefer the Durabond brand, simply because we can get a better deal on them. I can remember a time when certain vendors upsold Durabond cam bearing for MGBs for a greater selling price, because they were yet to recognized by the mass vendors, but once that happen, competition took over, and the price dropped.
Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
Website: www.acmespeedshop.com
hapwaldrop@acmespeedshop.com
Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 2014-04-17 07:45 AM by Speedracer.
Member Services:
MG/ Triumph Performance Street Engines -
Cylinder Head Porting for street performance and race -
DIY Engine Rebuild Kits With Free Tech Advice -
VTO alloy wheels for British Sports Cars, and others
fast-MG.com
Dave Headley
Cortez, 4 corners, Colorado, USA
Sign in to contact
|
Apr 17, 2014 08:49 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 15 years ago
9,605 Posts
|
Barrie, caution is in order here. I don't know about the AE bearings, but the rear bearing in the Durabond DA2 set has 3 oil holes, of which only the correct 2 line up with the holes in the block. These obviously must install correctly. And this can be a bit tricky. And must be verified for alignment after installed.
Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 17, 2014 08:41 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 13 years ago
32,530 Posts
|
Now I understand about why DA-2 was coming up with Nissan/Datsun. I checked on AE but I kept reading that Hap and his ilk used Durabond (now I understand; it's a good product very competitively priced). Anyway as I noted Basil's posted me a set (so you can ignore my earlier PM Hap - you must get 100s of them) and yes Dave I've picked up on the superfluous holes in another of your posts which I think was what got me to thinking of going the Durabond way. As I mentioned in another post I'm getting my new machinist to pull the new ones out lest anything be stuck in the oil feeds.
Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Lots more as I did a nut and bolt rebuild; finished 2015. Tartan Red.
GT: December '78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances. Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators & Mk1 rear lights. 'Worked' Rover V8 with Monsoon ECU for EFI. GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.
Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Lots more as I did a nut and bolt rebuild; finished 2015. Tartan Red.
GT: December '78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances. Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators & Mk1 rear lights. 'Worked' Rover V8 with Monsoon ECU for EFI. GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.
about 2 years and 11 months later...
Mar 20, 2017 07:27 PM
Joined 7 years ago
3 Posts
|
I am not impressed the the DA-2. It has no centered holes, and the block has one centered hole and one offset (towards the main). It doesn't matter which of the offsets you put towards the mains, you don't get good alignment with the centered hole and the spacing on the clock is very tight to the edges of the block holes.
Even the center bearing is not easy to get the holes lined up if you would like the bearing centered where it should be.
Block number 12H3502
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2017-03-21 06:51 PM by shoprat.
Even the center bearing is not easy to get the holes lined up if you would like the bearing centered where it should be.
Block number 12H3502
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2017-03-21 06:51 PM by shoprat.
about 1 week and 3 days later...
Mar 31, 2017 02:18 PM
Joined 7 years ago
3 Posts
|
Just in case someone looks at this again. Two holes in new DA-2 bearings are drilled exactly like the OE bearing. I solved my misalignment problem by extending the oiling holes to allow much easier installation.
I have attached an image of the rear one ready for installation.
The center one, I extended towards the middle of the bearing, and the small hole goes up towards the head.
I think the problem must be in the way this block was drilled as all the cam bearings matched well.
I have attached an image of the rear one ready for installation.
The center one, I extended towards the middle of the bearing, and the small hole goes up towards the head.
I think the problem must be in the way this block was drilled as all the cam bearings matched well.
Forums
Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster