MGB & GT Forum
Driver Side Rear Wheel Scrapping Metal Noise When Making Left Turn
Posted by deadirk14
Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 23, 2014 08:55 PM
Joined 12 years ago
22 Posts
|
.Driver side rear wheel scrapping metal noise when making a tight left turn. It is not the wheel bearings as these have been replaced after the noise was heard. Any suggestions as to what is causing this srapping noise and corrective action to correct would be appreciated. MGB 1976
Thanks Dirk
Thanks Dirk
Apr 23, 2014 09:34 PM
Joined 18 years ago
1,354 Posts
|
Apr 24, 2014 12:24 AM
Joined 15 years ago
4,348 Posts
|
Remove the brake drum and look for shiny spots on the edges of the brake backing plate "behind" the brake shoes, where they mate with the brake drum.
You may have a slightly bent backing plate, or the very worst, the big nut that holds the brake drum in place may be loose.
Make sure they both are torqued (with the emergency brake set), and then install a new cotter key in the castellated nut(s).
Roger N. Tanner
Professional Engineer, Retired
You may have a slightly bent backing plate, or the very worst, the big nut that holds the brake drum in place may be loose.
Make sure they both are torqued (with the emergency brake set), and then install a new cotter key in the castellated nut(s).
Roger N. Tanner
Professional Engineer, Retired
ShortJoe
Joe S
|
Apr 24, 2014 07:09 AM
Joined 10 years ago
89 Posts
|
Are you sure it is coming from the drivers side rear? I had a metalic rub similar to yours. I chased ot all over the rear of the car.
I later discovere t was actually the front. I had instaled an after market sway bar, and in tight or hard corners, it rubbed on the inside of the wheel.
A couple of wheel spacers later and everything was fine.As Mr. Tanner said, look for the shiney places where something is rubbing. Anyplace a movng part comes close to another part, moving or stationary, is a potential place for a rub.
I later discovere t was actually the front. I had instaled an after market sway bar, and in tight or hard corners, it rubbed on the inside of the wheel.
A couple of wheel spacers later and everything was fine.As Mr. Tanner said, look for the shiney places where something is rubbing. Anyplace a movng part comes close to another part, moving or stationary, is a potential place for a rub.
Apr 24, 2014 08:04 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 12 years ago
26,274 Posts
|
Is it metal to metal? if so follow Roger advice.
Are your spring bushes etc worn to such a degree that the rear end is shifting to one side and you are hearing the tire rub on the body?
Bruce
Life's most persistent and urgent question is, "What are you doing for others?"
Are your spring bushes etc worn to such a degree that the rear end is shifting to one side and you are hearing the tire rub on the body?
Bruce
Life's most persistent and urgent question is, "What are you doing for others?"
Apr 24, 2014 08:09 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 14 years ago
2,054 Posts
|
If you have wider wheels you might be experiencing the tyre rubbing on the lip of the rear left hand guard. All rear axles were offset slightly to the left of centre creating potential for contact with the LH rear fender.
Peter Malkin
NE Victoria
Australia
MGBGTV8 (1977)
MGB Roadster (1967) Supercharged
Triumph TR3A (1959)
MGA 1500 (under restoration)
Peter Malkin
NE Victoria
Australia
MGBGTV8 (1977)
MGB Roadster (1967) Supercharged
Triumph TR3A (1959)
MGA 1500 (under restoration)
Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 24, 2014 05:13 PM
Joined 12 years ago
22 Posts
|
MBG63
Mike G
|
Apr 24, 2014 11:09 PM
Joined 12 years ago
10 Posts
|
Apr 25, 2014 12:53 PM
Joined 18 years ago
8,982 Posts
|
Dirk - welcome to the fun, and please do report back. We all learn something!
1974-1/2 Roadster, "Bumble Bee", Corvette Yellow - in shambles, wire wheels
1976 Roadster, "Virus", Sandglow - "driver" condition (stock + 32/36 Weber DGEV, cast iron header, 25D distributor), bolt on wheels, ON the road!
1974-1/2 Roadster, "Bumble Bee", Corvette Yellow - in shambles, wire wheels
1976 Roadster, "Virus", Sandglow - "driver" condition (stock + 32/36 Weber DGEV, cast iron header, 25D distributor), bolt on wheels, ON the road!
about 2 weeks and 3 days later...
Topic Creator (OP)
May 12, 2014 06:56 PM
Joined 12 years ago
22 Posts
|
Roger was spot on with his with his recommendation (see below post) and scrapping metal noise is no longer. Thank You Roger!!
Dirk
Roger N. Tanner
Ventura, CA, USA
1970 MG MGB
1977 MG MGB
Posted: April 24, 2014 12:24AM
Registered: 5 years ago
Posts: 1,203
Remove the brake drum and look for shiny spots on the edges of the brake backing plate "behind" the brake shoes, where they mate with the brake drum.
You may have a slightly bent backing plate, or the very worst, the big nut that holds the brake drum in place may be loose.
Make sure they both are torqued (with the emergency brake set), and then install a new cotter key in the castellated nut(s).
Dirk
Roger N. Tanner
Ventura, CA, USA
1970 MG MGB
1977 MG MGB
Posted: April 24, 2014 12:24AM
Registered: 5 years ago
Posts: 1,203
Remove the brake drum and look for shiny spots on the edges of the brake backing plate "behind" the brake shoes, where they mate with the brake drum.
You may have a slightly bent backing plate, or the very worst, the big nut that holds the brake drum in place may be loose.
Make sure they both are torqued (with the emergency brake set), and then install a new cotter key in the castellated nut(s).
Forums
Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster