MGB & GT Forum

Interested in the opinion of fellow Mg'ers concerning what they think of Rust oleum Rust reformer. Does it work. Now, I personally think some wire wheel cleaning is still needed. In some places on a car. Its next to impossible to clean with a wire wheel.

I believe chemically treating rust does work. Provided you use a combination of elbow grease and rust reformer.

Give me your opinion. I thank you for your assistance.

Jeff

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If you read my post I thank you here. Thank you for reading/or responding to my post. I also thank you by pressing the thank you on your post.

May God Bless my fellow and lady friend MGers'. I wish all my fellow and lady friend prosperity, happiness and good health.

"Thumbs up to life and give the world a kick".

Opinion . It works to an extent. A good coat seals off the oxygen from promoting any additonal rust. Of course it just buys some time until it seeps in from the other side or it cracks and lets air and water in.

Rust oleum not so much.

I've had good experiences with Por 15.

A friend turned me on to these secrets for keeping POR 15:

1) Use a plastic grocery bag to double layer the top back to the can. You can open it next time. If you don't it won't be easy/possible to open it again.

2) It keeps a long time in the refrigerator. Just push it to the back where the wife won't see it.

It is good stuff but don't expose it to sunlight. Overcoats well. Cures really hard on the surface.

One more thing. DON'T GET IT ON YOU OR YOU WILL WEAR IT FOR AWHILE. Always wear gloves.

Try looking at Eastwood.com. They have a lot of products for dealing with rust.

David

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74 Damask Red BGT
Davesmg@outlook.com

The most effective stuff I have found is Bill Hirsch "Miracle Paint" for rust control. We used it on our fishing boat hull, and its still perfect after 6 + years of UV and salt water exposure. Don't get it on your skin, it has to wear off. No solvents will remove it once it has cured.
I have used POR-15 as well, but IMHO the Bill Hirsch paint is a better product. The POR-15 didn't last very long with UV and salt water exposure.

I've used the Eastwood converter and top coat with POR. No issues with either.

Along the same lines - Duplicolor has a spray can product called Rust Fix that I frequently use. I spray it on and "cure" it with low heat from a heat gun. It is probably better to let it sit and soak in. It does take some time to fully cure. The key is to paint it immediately after it is dry to prevent water from "reinfecting" the rusted area. Rust Fix and similar products chemically react with the rust and turn it black to make it inert (or so I have read).

I have used this product with very good results in the spare tire well of our 76 280Z spare tire well in conjunction with POR-15.

I first became aware of this product while renovating (sympathetically restoring?) a Karmann Ghia convertible while in law school. It is very convenient for areas that are not highly visible, Just be thorough and make sure you treat all related rust areas for a long lasting result. Caution though - rust will eventually come back after several years, but this treatment is an inexpensive way to buy you some time. The best solution, of course, is to cut out the rusted metal and weld in new . . . but not always easy or convenient, especially during driving season.

I used a rust stabilizer called Picklex, wire brush surface, wipe on Picklex, wait a minute or so, wipe off. wait 24 hours and apply paint.
it is nasty stuff, makes cement bubble!
jim

So called "rust converters" are just that. The solution chemically reacts with iron oxide/rust to the ferric oxide to a more stable chemical state. Years ago, I think one of the most common was Permatex End-Rust. It and others like it were a blend of inorganic acids, like phosphoric. [Chemists, I'm not, can chime in] My recent research for some suggests that these are no longer available. Organic acids are now the 'conversion' agent and are not as strong as earlier products. I'm now relying on POR15, not nearly as versatile.

I've had great experience with Ospho....it is a phosphoric acid solution that eats runs and converts to phosphoric oxide. You need to do good surface prep and get off all the rust you can, including down in the pitted areas. If I work that hard, I have good confidence in it. Just wiping it over a rusted area isn't going to much...especially if it is scaly rust. It dries to form a primer surface that will last many days depending on the conditions.

Once I'm happy with the result, I wipe off all I can, if not it takes a long time to dry that way, and gets tar like until fully cured. If wiped off thourghly, it will dry in a few hours depending on condition....or hit it with a little heat.

For small parts, it is GREAT as a soaking bath. It WILL take off all the rust with an overnight soak....not strong enough to attack the metal....BUT it doesn't like chromed parts....will lift it right off!

I then follow up with a good sanding/scuff of surface followed by quality primer and paint....good to go!

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1974-1/2 Roadster, "Bumble Bee", Corvette Yellow - in shambles, wire wheels
1976 Roadster, "Virus", Sandglow - "driver" condition (stock + 32/36 Weber DGEV, cast iron header, 25D distributor), bolt on wheels, ON the road!

I've used POR-15 on many projects and will continue to do so. Very happy with them.

~ Carl

PS - I buy the small cans in a six pack

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1972 MGB roadster - 30 over, fast road cam, full peco exhaust, Jeff S. rebuilt 45D Eurospec, Jimmy H. rebuilt HIF4s prestige interior, hood and tonneau cover, Dayton 72 spoke chrome wires, custom center console

1969 MGB GT - Eaton M-45 supercharger, TT stainless exhaust, Jeff S re-curved 25D - SOLD

My dad used the Rust Oleaum rust treatment on the truck bed of his 1973 GMC Sierra. Worked pretty well and stopped the rust in its tracks. He did this about 6 years ago and the rust has not spread since then.

X2 . This is what I use with great success.

to answer your question, RUSTOLEAUM RUST REFORMER worked for me. the product that I am talking about is the product that is milky white and dries black



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-10-17 10:38 AM by KUttech.