MGB & GT Forum
Crank Reassembly - It's REALLY tight
Posted by RobertsMGB
RobertsMGB
Bob RobertsMGB
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Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 16, 2014 03:08 PM
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Crank was turned to .010 and have .010 bearings. Assembled and plastigaged each journal with 70 lbs of torque and they all measured about .020. If anything, a tad on the high side of .020. Disassembled and cleaned everything up, assembly lube on everything and torqued back down. Now it's difficult to turn without a little leverage. Seems much too tight but I don't see what the problem could be. Any suggestions from you engine experts??
Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'54 MG-TF #2259
'54 MGTF #2259
Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'54 MG-TF #2259
'54 MGTF #2259
dickmoritz
Dick Moritz
Philly 'burbs, PA, USA
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Apr 16, 2014 03:26 PM
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Apr 16, 2014 03:28 PM
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Bob,
I'll assume this is a bare crank laying in the block, no connecting rods, pistons and spark plugs installed and hence compression working against rotation? Sometimes they can feel very tight (and they should be fairly snug) but are you sure you used the correct plasti-gauge and measured correctly? I believe the correct clearance is somewhere in the .0015"-.0020" range, not .020". If it is, that's way too "loose" and you won't be able to maintain any oil pressure. Not knowing what other work you had done to the block or crank I really can't help ID the issue. I would redo checking the clearances again. If it is so tight you have trouble turning it with a breaker bar (and you weigh more than 85 lbs soaking wet) you may want to get a second "first hand" opinion locally.
-David
I'll assume this is a bare crank laying in the block, no connecting rods, pistons and spark plugs installed and hence compression working against rotation? Sometimes they can feel very tight (and they should be fairly snug) but are you sure you used the correct plasti-gauge and measured correctly? I believe the correct clearance is somewhere in the .0015"-.0020" range, not .020". If it is, that's way too "loose" and you won't be able to maintain any oil pressure. Not knowing what other work you had done to the block or crank I really can't help ID the issue. I would redo checking the clearances again. If it is so tight you have trouble turning it with a breaker bar (and you weigh more than 85 lbs soaking wet) you may want to get a second "first hand" opinion locally.
-David
dickmoritz
Dick Moritz
Philly 'burbs, PA, USA
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Apr 16, 2014 03:29 PM
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At 70 ft-lbs you must be referring to the main bearings, with no rods installed. With lube on the crankshaft it should turn smoothly and evenly by hand...
Suggest you loosen them all and tighten at one journal at a time and see if the crank turns smoothly with each journal. Check to make sure main caps 2, 3, and 4 are all correctly oriented with "Front" toward the front, and make sure that caps 2 and 4 are on the appropriate journal. A reminder that, on our engines, all rod and main caps are installed tang-to-tang...
Dick
Errabundi Saepe, Semper Certi
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Suggest you loosen them all and tighten at one journal at a time and see if the crank turns smoothly with each journal. Check to make sure main caps 2, 3, and 4 are all correctly oriented with "Front" toward the front, and make sure that caps 2 and 4 are on the appropriate journal. A reminder that, on our engines, all rod and main caps are installed tang-to-tang...
Dick
Errabundi Saepe, Semper Certi
(Often wrong, but always certain)
RobertsMGB
Bob RobertsMGB
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Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 16, 2014 03:37 PM
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Correction on the plasti-gauge reading - yes, it's .002 on all and it's the green that should measure between .001-.003 Bare crank no pistons or anything else in. The assembly lube I used is the sticky stuff. Would that be the difference? Wondering if I should clean it all off and use a different lube. I can turn it using a screwdriver as a lever on the flywheel end but it's difficult to move without any leverage.
Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'54 MG-TF #2259
'54 MGTF #2259
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-04-16 03:38 PM by RobertsMGB.
Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'54 MG-TF #2259
'54 MGTF #2259
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-04-16 03:38 PM by RobertsMGB.
Apr 16, 2014 03:38 PM
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dickmoritz
Dick Moritz
Philly 'burbs, PA, USA
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Apr 16, 2014 03:43 PM
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Bob,
It should turn smooth as butter by hand. With such a critical assembly you really should take it all apart and re-check everything and re-tighten one journal at a time... Try assembling with just engine oil...
Dick
Errabundi Saepe, Semper Certi
(Often wrong, but always certain)
It should turn smooth as butter by hand. With such a critical assembly you really should take it all apart and re-check everything and re-tighten one journal at a time... Try assembling with just engine oil...
Dick
In reply to # 2663588 by RobertsMGB
Correction on the plasti-gauge reading - yes, it's .002 on all and it's the green that should measure between .001-.003 Bare crank no pistons or anything else in. The assembly lube I used is the sticky stuff. Would that be the difference? Wondering if I should clean it all off and use a different lube. I can turn it using a screwdriver as a lever on the flywheel end but it's difficult to move without any leverage.
Errabundi Saepe, Semper Certi
(Often wrong, but always certain)
maggelie
Arthur Nichols
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Apr 16, 2014 03:45 PM
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oleanderjoe
Joseph Baba
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Apr 16, 2014 03:45 PM
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BOB: Are all the main bearing caps installed and torqued??, if not sometimes the crank will feel like its to tight. Also carefully measure the crank end thrust, were they replaced??, standard or oversize. ??
Joe
IN ALL SUBJECTS.: For those who believe, no proof is needed. For those who don’t believe, no proof is possible.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough"
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Joe Baba 2021
Joe
IN ALL SUBJECTS.: For those who believe, no proof is needed. For those who don’t believe, no proof is possible.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough"
Sir Henry Royce
co-founder of Rolls-Royce .
"I take no credit for my own, of another man's fame".
Joe Baba 2021
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Dave Headley
Cortez, 4 corners, Colorado, USA
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Apr 16, 2014 04:02 PM
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Apr 16, 2014 04:12 PM
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Was the block line bored?
Each journal can be correct but if they are not all on the same center line the crank will bind up as you tighten the caps.
Lann
Each journal can be correct but if they are not all on the same center line the crank will bind up as you tighten the caps.
Lann
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RobertsMGB
Bob RobertsMGB
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Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 16, 2014 04:13 PM
Joined 18 years ago
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I'm using the original thrust washers so wouldn't expect them to be the problem. There's really no endplay in the crank. Have all of the mains torqued down. Will take it all apart and start over
Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'54 MG-TF #2259
'54 MGTF #2259
Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'54 MG-TF #2259
'54 MGTF #2259
Apr 16, 2014 05:13 PM
Joined 12 years ago
61 Posts
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Denis
Denis Hill
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Apr 16, 2014 05:15 PM
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Bob before you dissemble it loosen the caps,until just slight tension, remove the flywheel and with a soft dead blow hammer or the like drive the crank in both directions to align the main caps then check it again.. {if you haven't done this already}. denis
68 B roadster, Daffodil yellow, supercharger, Burgess SC head, SC cam, Mikuni HSR 48 carburetor and engine built for supercharging.
73 BGT V8 conversion starting with a bare shell. Built the engine "3.9L Rover" early in 2016 with high comp pistons and a few other nice bits, plus a T5 ford trans. Started on the body late 2016 and complete late 2017, Did all the work myself, mechanical, body. paint etc.
Finished and going well, great to drive and quick. Now has a nice 3.23 LSD.
68 B roadster, Daffodil yellow, supercharger, Burgess SC head, SC cam, Mikuni HSR 48 carburetor and engine built for supercharging.
73 BGT V8 conversion starting with a bare shell. Built the engine "3.9L Rover" early in 2016 with high comp pistons and a few other nice bits, plus a T5 ford trans. Started on the body late 2016 and complete late 2017, Did all the work myself, mechanical, body. paint etc.
Finished and going well, great to drive and quick. Now has a nice 3.23 LSD.
Rick Fawthrop
Richard Fawthrop
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Apr 16, 2014 05:19 PM
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What kind of tools are you working with here? And which engine? A three main or a five main?
I would check the crank for straightness with some v blocks and a dial indicator. Torque the main caps with no bearings and check the size and straightness of the main line.
I would think that you are going to pack up the block and crank and head to the machine shop. I would get the line bore done and deck the block.
I would check the crank for straightness with some v blocks and a dial indicator. Torque the main caps with no bearings and check the size and straightness of the main line.
I would think that you are going to pack up the block and crank and head to the machine shop. I would get the line bore done and deck the block.
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