Okay everyone I'm not the most mechanical person out there....just got the TF last year I'm sure soon I'll be an expect lol....anyhow my break lights are out...I tried the obvious and replaced the blubs that didn't work. The turn signal and rear lights still work just when I hit the breaks they don't. I looked at the wires under the car and they all seem to be connected.....any ideas on what else to check before I have to take it into the shop?
thanks
Brake lights out!
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Justin, underneath the car, right behind the master cylinder you will find the brake light switch with two wires going to it. You can verify you have voltage to the switch with a test light or a meter when the key is on. You can jump the two leads together and see if you now have brake lights. The switch is most likely bad. It is one of the few things you can pick up at your local NAPA store but the quality has become a little suspect of late. Dave will probably jump in here and suggest that you add a relay to prevent the point arcing that occurs and the failure do to that fact.
So as not to disappoint LaVerne, I am going to chime in. You can either get a brake light switch from NAPA - ask for it for the TF or MGA or early MGB (I can't find the P/N that I had somewhere on the computer) and then make up or purchase a relay/arc suppression circuit and install it at the same time you replace the switch - see the article, Brake Light Relay in the Other Tech Articles section of my website, linked below in my signature block or, purchase the brake light switch (SW-32) from Ron Francis Wiring http://www.ronfrancis.com/ Either way will get you a brake light switch that will work for longer than just a couple of months.
Cheers,
NAPA part number for the switch is: [ECH SL144] with grub screw connectors. PJ
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Paul - Do you happen to have the P/N for the same switch with spade lug connectors? Those are the numbers I was looking for - they are crappy switches, but ones that will fit our cars.
Cheers,
Do you have the ignition switch "on" when testing brake lights?
I think your Brake Switch on the tail end of your Master Cylinder. You can check the switch by jumping the two terminals to see if the brake lights go on. The Ignition should be on.
Paul - Do you happen to have the P/N for the same switch with spade lug connectors? Those are the numbers I was looking for - they are crappy switches, but ones that will fit our cars.
Cheers,
"
Dave, I'm probably wrong, but the NAPA spade lug switch looks like the threads are wrong. JEGs has them with bullet connectors and spade lugs. As to quality, your guess is as good as mine. PJ
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[/url]http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Hydraulic-Brake-Light-Switch/763631/10002/-1
Paul - Thank you. The threads are universal, so that is not an issue. I'll have to dig through my stuff and see if I can find the P/N. It really doesn't matter much, the switches are all the same, except for the terminals - the MGS and early MGB use the same switch, but with the spade connections. I used the switch with spade lugs on our TD before I cam up with the relay/arc suppression circuit, figuring that if I had to change the switch every couple of months, at least I was going to have a plug an play switch. Cheers - Dave
Dave, Do you have access to an Advance Auto Parts? They have the spade lug type. Don't know where it's made, but it has the old style look and double the price. Model number 201-0130 @ $12.99.
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Paul - That looks like the same one NAPA carries. I'll make sure that I have that P/N copied down this time. Thank you.
Cheers,
Just wanted to thank everyone! It was the brake switch! That was a pretty easy job once I got the part in. Thanks everyone your help is greatly appreciated.
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