MG Midget Forum

Hey guys,

I am in the process of replacing my brake rotors and brake pads on my 1977 Midget. I took off the calipers and noticed that the pistons don't want to move in and out. If I put enough pressure on the non mounting side piston it will go in but I can't seem to make the other piston budge. Both calipers are like this. In addition, when I took them off it was as if the pistons were locked in the braking position. Turning the hub was not easy and I could clearly hear the sound of the pads touching the rotors. I believe I need to either rebuild the calipers or buy new ones. Moss has them for $110 each but by the time I got it home it would be more like $280 for both. I really don't have time to rebuild them myself as it is getting cold here in Canada and I have a bunch of other things I want to get done before the winter. I have seen threads where people mention buying rebuilt calipers. If I need to replace my calipers does anyone know a good source for them?

Also, I realize that I need to remove the hub to be able to replace the rotors. I have not researched how I am going to manage that but does anyone have any tips?

Thanks!

Michael Dougherty

You might try some places in England. With where you are located the mother country might be best for shipping. Since I am a triumph guy I really can't think of any place off hand to send you. Start by trying the MG owners club,they are a big supplier of spares. Best of luck!

I was able to source a set from one of MOSS Vendors on this list for $80 each new. Brakes one thing I'm not interested in trusting my life to my inexperience at rebuilding. MOSS does have a 20% off now sale on Brake Parts IIRC.

Hi Michael,
First of all were your brakes working fine before you decided on the brake job?
If they were and nothing was leaking you're probably all right.
I've had to press my pistons in with a C-Clamp many times.
As far as actuation goes...A tremendous amount of hydraulic pressure is developed
by the master cylinder. Liquid is not compressible. It's difficult to simulate that kind
of pressure on the bench. If you think your brakes are hanging up let's look at that.
Are you trying to spin the rotors using the lugs with the wheels removed? With the
wheels installed there's inertia involved and the resistance is minimized. With the wheels
off a reasonable amount of resistance should be expected. The pads don't really retract
they kind of ride on the rotor. If you decide to rebuild the calipers it's really easy and we
can easily get you through that...Hope this helps.

Sorry about the loss of your serviceman during the senseless, cowardly act of terrorism...
We're watching closely down here and we got your back!!!
Good Luck, Mike

http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/sprite_midget.html

TS Imported Automotive. $69.95/ea if you send the old calipers in exchange. I bought a set last year. Sadly, they are still in a box and not on my '76 Midget.

wire wheel or steel wheel? Getting the hubs off is roughly the same for both in that you must remove the ust cap, and then the split pin and undo the nut, but wire wheels can be trickier because the dust cap must be pulled out by a stud, and you might have to make a special tool.

http://www.spridgetguru.com/TA0103.html

On wire wheels the cotter is removed and inserted through a small hole in the hub, but you can just put a socket on the nut and use a breaker bar to brake the split pin when you're removing it. This is way easier.

---

Seth Jones

1971 MG Midget

www.SpridgetGuru.com

TS Imports. Ted Shumacher,ya he is a real piece of work. Just don't introduce yourself on the phone and tell him where you are from like I did! His response will probably be "sorry to hear that". A real charmer he is....

Couple tips to help the pistons go back in:
1. Open the brake master cap and use an old brake pad and channel locks or a c-clamp to push them back in. The reason you open the cap is to let the fluid rise back up to the reservoir unrestricted because you don't have to compress the air inside.
2. This one is "try at your own risk, no guarantees expressed or implied" but you can pinch off the brake hose with a vice grip and open the bleeder. Get out the old brake pad and channel locks or c-clamp and compress. Close the bleeder when you are done. This method is a bit riskier because you can collapse a brake hose and will be stuck with a caliper that will not compress or release. Most of the time you can push the brake pedal a few times and the hydraulic pressure will get the hose back in shape, but there is always that chance. If done carefully however makes life very easy and if you pay attention and close the bleeder in time the brakes will need no bleeding.

As far as sticky calipers go, brakes are something I never leave to chance. There is a slight chance that you can free up sticky calipers and may people swear by it, that it works and never had an issue, yada, yada, yada. If I have a sticky or a frozen caliper I always rebuild or replace. Its a C level job and takes less than an hour for both sides. Costs around $30 for both sides if the pistons are OK. 99% of the time they are fine and require very little cleaning. I always tell people(I'm a bit of a dick but I'm actually pretty nice if you get to know me ) that I don't care if you die because a component of your car fails, I care about the van full of kids you will take with you when your car is out of control.

Moral of my spiel: Brakes are nothing to be taken lightly.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-10-24 09:00 PM by Mainline Ilya.

I rebuilt mine. I purchased the proper size Brake Hone and polished the inside just to make sure it was clean, in other words don't go nuts on them. I was surprised by how well, with new Brembo rotors, the car stops, and how controllable the brakes were. I changed every line and hose. If that is an option, I would try and save those two puck Lockheed Calipers, they're actually quite well made. I did soak the main caliper seals for around 5 minutes before I put them back in to have it swell a bit (each when it was their turn!). It was a tight fit, but ensured no leaks, and 8 years on, it has proven itself. IMHO.

I recently purchased new callipers from Moss Europe along with new discs (rotors).

At the time the callipers were £42 each here in the UK ($65 USD) - but I see that they are now £61 ($98 USD) - which is a huge hike in cost.

The disks are still cheap at only £8 each. Compared to any modern car that's a steal and well worth the extra.

When replacing the callipers don't forget to order new banjo bolt sealing washers.

I wouldn't trust anything but new brake parts, but I hear that exchange callipers can be a good solution. Just make sure that the company supplying the work has a great reputation.

---

David J.

https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#A4532ODWyhgHM



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-10-25 09:10 AM by Jerram.

Rebuilding doesn't take long and is not all that difficult. I would personally prefer my rebuild Lockheed over cheap Chinese replacement's. The main trick in the rebuild is getting the dust seal retaining rings in and, unfortunately, they are not as good as they used to be from Lockheed. A little file work around there perimeter will help a lot.


Kurt

And replacethe hoses as well. Max life installed is 10 years and they collapse internally with no external signs that they are bad.

Pads always touch the rotors. There is no retraction system on disc brakes. Unless your rotors are warped.
i agree with everyone else on the other stuff. Were you stopping ok is the main question. How worn are the pads. And you need a c-clamp to squeeze the pistons back into the caliper.

That's what I wonder? Are you giving up your Lockheed Calipers, which are super quality calipers, for some cheap import knock off? Are these rebuilt Lockheeds, and do you know this for sure. I'll stick with the Lockheeds. If you were in the U.S., I'd pay for you to send me your old blown out Lockheeds, I wouldn't pay anything for them, but I'd take them off your hands. This is one the things M.G. got right.

Thanks everyone for all the help. I might not be able to reply to everyone but I did read your replies and I appreciate your advice.

My calipers are currently off my car and I have new brake hoses installed (did them today). I may hook up my old calipers and check their operation. If they are satisfactory I may just put them back as is for now. If they aren't I may just rebuild them. My original problem was that at a certain point during rotation there would be a scraping type sound . How far are the pistons supposed to be sticking out with no brake pedal depressed? The pads that were on the calipers seemed fine (I have no idea when they were last replaced).

I just redid my rear brakes so I believe my braking is going to be better than it ever with or without replacing the calipers. I have new rotors to install so that will take care of any possibility of warped rotors.

Thanks again,

Mike