MGB & GT Forum

I found a set of steelcraft rear arch panels and an interior sill on craigslist for $150 (the ones no longer sold by Moss it seems). Since I'm soon to be doing the sill repair and was thinking the rear arches needed some love too I'm interested.

I was wondering if anyone had any experience on the fit of them? Would it be worth it to purchase them? I will probably be buying other patch panels from Moss or one of the other distributors... would they work suitably if mixed with those?

Thanks,
Chris

Steelcraft panels will work fine. Like any body repair panel some adjusting and fitting may be needed.

I didn't have to tackle sills, but I welded in a purchased used-but-uninstalled drivers floor that is Steelcraft, and it fit as well as the also purchased used-but-uninstalled Heritage passenger floor I welded in. I would say you are probably safe.

Done 3 Steelcraft rear quarters (below the trim line) and they worked. They are too short by about 1/8" door to taillight but not an issue as I tend not to use the entire panel.

Pete

I used Steelcraft dogleg repair panel....lots of fiddling around, tested my patience but they worked OK. Only used BMH panels for floors, sills, inner sill and rocker so don't know how those would work. The price on that lot seems pretty good though and even if extra time spent might be a decent deal....

H Chris,

If memory serves, I believe Steelcraft was bought by BMH, or maybe the other way around, but they are now combined. If you're talking floor panels, the Steelcraft panels lack the captive nuts for the seat rail mounts and the threaded studs for the cable routing clamps on the passenger (right) side. And the panels I've seen do not have the edge scrap (from the actual pressing) trimmed so the panels are sort of a dish vs. a flat plate.

Steve

My local MGOC supply steel craft panels and I have bought and fitted many! They all have fitted well except the front wing lower panels at the top left corner, its too deep and protrudes slightly! Cutting and welding would cure but as its near the chrome strip it does not notice at all. Shaping with a hammer would put the fold out of alignment with the top half of the wing. Chris

Thanks for the re-assurances gang!

I'm going to contact the seller and pick them up. The deal is too good to pass up (I mis-remembered when I posted... he actually wants $100 for all three!)

Chris

yes Chris,
I used them on my restoration ,full boot, rear wing floor, pan small sections all worked fine with a little tweeking here and there

Got the panels today (pic below). Some surface rust from being stored outside, but still solid. I looked at the Steelcraft website and they don't make those "arch panels" any more, and the full rear quarters are outta sight expensive. I'm thinking it was even more of a deal than I originally thought to get them all for $100.

Can someone tell me whether the inner sill shown is a left or a right?

That's a right side membrane at the top of your pic.

---

Documenting my project in my journal at https://www.mgexp.com/home#journal

Chris-
The surface rust shouldn't be a problem. You don't have to have them sandblasted or resort to hours of cleaning them with sandpaper, either. Just run down to a Lowe's or Home depot and get some Naval Jelly, which contains phosphoric acid. Be sure to wear rubber gloves when you use it. Being a thick gel, it will cling to the surface being treated instead of running everywhere as would happen with an acid that is in liquid form. Phosphoric acid reacts very slowly with iron, thus hydrogen emission is much lower and hydrogen embrittlement of the metal is insufficient to present a significant structural problem that can result in the formation of cracks. Note that it will also react with the iron in the metal to form a dark-purple-hued, thin passivated layer of ferric chloride. This is a natural result of chemical interaction. This protects the surface and also slows down the chemical reaction, so it is more or less self-limiting. After removing the rust, rinse the naval jelly off thoroughly with water, and then blow the metal dry with compressed air or your wife’s hairdryer (she will not mind you borrowing it for such a noble purpose, of course).