MGB & GT Forum
Anyone ever aligned the bottom of door doing this?
Posted by max71
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Mar 31, 2015 11:22 AM
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Saw this in search for fixes. A member told me about something like this and showed me his B has the same issues. Has anyone ever tried it? Door bottom adjustment
stiffarm67 thanked max71 for this post
Mar 31, 2015 11:55 AM
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Mar 31, 2015 12:04 PM
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Yes. I've seen it done several times. The last was about 20 years ago at a vehicle manufacturing plant that's now closed. Bit brutal but it does work. Can break the paint where the door skin and inner panel meet.
Won't work on my doors. When I fitted the new outer panel I put an air dry seam sealer into the space before I folded the flange over. I bent it all to shape and left it for a few days to cure. The door is rigid and the seam will never get water into it again. The method is used to build a lot of modern car doors.
Won't work on my doors. When I fitted the new outer panel I put an air dry seam sealer into the space before I folded the flange over. I bent it all to shape and left it for a few days to cure. The door is rigid and the seam will never get water into it again. The method is used to build a lot of modern car doors.
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Mar 31, 2015 12:07 PM
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dipstick
Kenny Snyder (RIP)
La Center, WA, USA
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1941 Ford N-Series
1958 MG MGA 1500 Coupe "Rosie" 1970 MG MGB GT "Pat's GT" 1971 MG MGB "Gifted To Me" & more |
Mar 31, 2015 12:17 PM
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Mar 31, 2015 12:19 PM
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Mar 31, 2015 12:28 PM
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mgbanthony
Anthony Henderson
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Mar 31, 2015 12:32 PM
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Mar 31, 2015 01:13 PM
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In the write up he says "The door gave a “crack” sound" and realistically that can only have been the skin shifting where it's crimped in the frame which would bother me, at the very least it would crack the paint leading to eventual moisture ingress and corrosion if it wasn't addressed.
If I have a door which needs adjusting (and it's depressingly common even on professionally restored cars) I use the angle grinder cut a slot in the frame all the way from the catch down and along the bottom, the skin plus frame can now be positioned - either in or out as required - and the slot then welded up using a patch inside if the skin has been moved out and the width of the slot is too much to bridge, a skim of filler and a squirt of paint later and you'd never know the surgery had been performed
If I have a door which needs adjusting (and it's depressingly common even on professionally restored cars) I use the angle grinder cut a slot in the frame all the way from the catch down and along the bottom, the skin plus frame can now be positioned - either in or out as required - and the slot then welded up using a patch inside if the skin has been moved out and the width of the slot is too much to bridge, a skim of filler and a squirt of paint later and you'd never know the surgery had been performed
Mar 31, 2015 04:22 PM
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Hi,
That was me, a few years back. I had researched how to adjust the door, and found a reference to the factory way, which was with a special big bar, in the manner shown in my article.
Note that doing it the way the photo shows is problematic, because the A post flexes a bit. Open the door to about 90 deg and do it. A post much stiffer that way.
Herb
That was me, a few years back. I had researched how to adjust the door, and found a reference to the factory way, which was with a special big bar, in the manner shown in my article.
Note that doing it the way the photo shows is problematic, because the A post flexes a bit. Open the door to about 90 deg and do it. A post much stiffer that way.
Herb
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Mar 31, 2015 06:54 PM
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Mar 31, 2015 07:33 PM
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I've seen videos of factory repairs on misaligned hoods (bonnets) and doors being doing with mallets and hammers and even hands to adjust them before the cars were sent to dealers. At the factory, it paid to fix things quickly and if you screwed it up, they'd pull it out of line and try repairing it another way. At home, if you screw it up, you might need a body shop. So I suppose it can and does work, but I'd hate to pull (or hit) too hard!
Drew Maddock, So. Calif. USofA
Drew Maddock, So. Calif. USofA
Apr 1, 2015 08:53 AM
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I used that method after re-skinning the LH door. Before painting the door I fitted it to the car, adjusted as well as I could for level and alignment to the front wing. Then I used a long piece of angle clamped to the inner face of the door to "adjust" it so to align with the rear wing. The door was then removed for painting. When refitted it still aligned both back and front which was a great relief.
Apr 1, 2015 09:45 AM
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