T-Series & Prewar Forum

Ok, so I did a lot of Internet research on the efficacy of adding a 5/8" MGB anti-roll bar to a TF. Most folks said "best mod ever", some said TF is already stiff, "nothing to be gained."

Adding an anti-sway bar to a TD looks straight forward on YouTube, but on the TF the horns are in the way. Both cars have frame extensions constructed of thin steel which crack if additional support is not included when mounting the bushings. I chose to fabricate a bracket out of 1/8" and 1/4" plate that reuse the three horn mount bracket bolts (and added two more), to direct the vertical force directly into the vertical frame rail. The bushing bracket bolts are centered with the vertical plate and have captive nuts. The horns continued to mount without modifications.

Replacing the TF spring pan and A-arm with MGB parts is very straight forward and inexpensive. However, I was not convinced that the long MGB link cleared the tie-rods at all steering angles and A-arm positions, so I opted to cut down the links to a total length of 4.25".

So, now the good part...with a little help I measured the angle of the bonnet making tight turns at 10 and 20 mph and collected the data. The absolute results seem hard to believe, but the relative results seem plausible.

Stock (no anti-sway bar):
Very sharp 90 deg turn at 10 mph yielded 22deg tilt. 20mph yielded 31deg tilt.
Drum roll please...
With anti-sway bar:. 10mph yielded 11deg tilt. 20 mph yielded 20deg tilt.
35% reduction!!!

So, how does it actually feel....very noticeable improvement. As I was turning out of my driveway I could immediately feel the difference, even at 3mph. Under typical driving conditions the bonnet appears not to tilt and the front end has a new "solid" feeling. Easily worth the $150 I spent on it. I highly recommend the modifications and agree with the folks who say it is the best mod ever!

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Patience gets you nowhere fast!

Made you a believer eh?

That's some reinforcement you added there! Can only be a good thing I guess. I just reinforced the bottom of the front chassis extensions with 3mm steel plate backing and additional bolting. They seem good so far, but I will check them occassionally. I also shortened the drop links - about 3" centre to centre. The data is very nice to have.
Dave H

Now use poly bushings every place front & rear, MGB rubber bumper HP front springs 480#, & Michelin tires! Then it will REALLY handle!

The MGB V8 rubber bushes also work well.
Dave H

I have already replaced front and rear suspension with new springs and upgraded bushings and rebuilt dampers. Front springs are new TF type from moss. I was very surprised to feel a significant improvement when rear leaf springs were replaced.

When I worked on the steering rack I found that there was some kind of brass metallic grease used for lubrication. Since there was not much, I left it there and added recommended oil. Now the steering is light, but the car is very sensitive to wind gusts and ruts in the road. There is no play in the steering , but it has now become the weakest link. Any ideas?

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Patience gets you nowhere fast!

Put some radial tires on it and don't get to carried away with the tire pressures. I find mine to be very stable at interstate speeds

Yes, I suspect the type of tyres and pressures have a lot to do with. I am using radials and running at 25/26psi. The steering is still light.
Dave H

Was there any issue getting the links aligned during the cutting process?

Thanks.

Peter

Hi Sean. The work on your TF looks really great! And, I have two questions about the work:

First, did you make the new brackets yourself or have them fabricated by a local shop (we are close and were curious about a possible shop to make them)? They are the best setup I have seen.

Second, is the "wing" shown in the third picture an air-dam to increase flow through the radiator? If so, how effective is it?

Thanks. Regards, Bill



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-05-04 01:16 PM by WHT.

Peter. No problem shortening the links. Just make a crude jig with wood that the fits the drop links as they come, to maintain the angle. Then saw off the U bracket at the end, shorten the link and drill a hole through the U bracket the same diameter as the link rod. Using the jig to maintain the angle, weld the rod into the U bracket, making sure it's all in line, then grind smooth as required. Do not put too much weld inside the U bracket or there won't be enough clearance for it to articulate.
Dave H

Thanks, will have to wait until I get my hands on the links to figure out a jig.

Peter

Sorry for the late reply. I designed and fabricated the brackets. All you really need is a drill press, and mig welder.

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Patience gets you nowhere fast!

Hello,
That seems very interesting to me.
Have you made a list of the necessary parts?
For the bracket on the chassis, do you have a diagram?
Sincerely, Thierry

In its most basic form, all you need is complete standard MGB anti roll bar with its brackets and drop links, a pair of MGB spring pans and front wishbone arms, and a couple of rectangular plates in 3mm steel to reinforce the mounting holes on the dumb irons.
Nice refinements are the reinforcements described above and to reduce the length of the drop links also described.
Watch LaVerne's swaybar installation guide on YouTube.
(Anti-roll bar in UK English, Sway bar in American).
Dave H