Just bought a grille and split chrome bumper (with all hardware) from a 72 Mg Midget off of Ebay for 50 bucks for the two. I will be working on the grill first to get the front end finished.
76 Midget bumper conversion update
The MG Experience ~ MG Midget Forum ~ Archives
Spridget Tech Talk (MG Midget & Austin-Healey Sprite)
MG Midget Forum: 76 Midget bumper conversion update
Join the discussion, post your photos, or ask your own questions. Membership is FREE!
One more picture. I made a couple identical metal plates welded them in with a weld once every inch. used seam sealer in the wheel well pushed it through to the front. then spread the left overs of the seam sealer around the front of the seam. Sanded the front down with 60 grit. Primered so the metal doesnt surface rust. Have a light coat of bondo ready to slap on there and you wont even know that they were there.
Looks good. I'd be leary of putting filler on top of seam sealer, however. As the sealer cures, it shrinks quite a lot, and I am not sure how well the Bondo will stick to it anyway. Also ( sorry, just a pet peeve) you prime something with primer. I have a friend who always said he was going to router the edge of a piece of wood. I'd ask him if he was then going to sander it.
Looks good, but as mentioned, don't put bondo over seam sealer. I would take a wire wheel to the welds and clean the seam sealer of the front. Then spray some rust encapsultaore on it to really seal it good. You can bondo over encapsulator.
I like your screwdriver holder
The seam sealer has been "drying" for about a week, so it should be done shrinking by now. I was told by a good friend who just graduated from one of the best restoration schools in the country that it would be just fine to put the body filler on it the way it is. I did voice your concerns and he said as long as its dry the body filler will stick to it. Regardless, my butt welds and patch panel that I made for the cutout are so close to the actual size that I really didnt even need to use a whole lot of seam sealer, I just did for good measure. I will however put some rust encapsulator on the front to be safe. I had previously put some on the wheel well side about 3 days ago to make sure its sealed permanently.
And Doug, thank you for noticing.. that is about the only place I can fit a screwdriver on this car without dropping it on the ground. It also fits 1/2 and 1/4 socket wrenches. lol.
I think that the point is that because you have sealed the inner area, you really don't need it on the outside. Primer, filler and paint should be fine. Also, because the filler will be so thin, I'd think it even more likely to move differently over the sealer, which , although cured, never really gets as hard as the metal. When you go to sand the filler flush with the fenders, you might be feathering out the sealer as well .(?) Personally, I'd take it off as mentioned. I'd also put some undercoating on the inside to protect it from the stuff thrown at it by the tires. Are you going to cut new holes for turn signals ? I would be inclined to do that before filling , etc.
I called up the police station and asked if I needed the turn signals on the front. They said as long as there is one on each front fender towards the front of each fender that I dont need two by the grille. Also they said that those two on the front fenders have to be visible when I am turning. On top of that my flasher unit went bad long ago even before I owned it.. so the blinkers dont work anyways... my arm is out the window and the top is always down so I just use hand signals.... its too big of a pain to trace down what wiring is messed up and paying 30 something bucks for a new flasher unit for the stupid car.
I am restoring a 1940 Plymouth Road King Business Coupe, which is my main project car. This MG is always going to be a work in progress until I finish with the Plymouth, so I can always mess with the old style MG blinkers later.
I will post more pictures soon when I slap off the front of the frame rails and get the grille in and toss some mud on those patch panels for a finished view.
Scott, the side marker lamps don't flash with the turn signals, they're not wired that way, only a single element bulb. Don't depend on them to satisfy the law.
As far as hand signals, they aren't worth a da** at night and other drivers seldom look for them anymore, your turn signal lamps are there as a defense against other drivers. I highly advise you mount some type of lamp up front and make sure the turn signals work properly front and rear. It's just safer to drive the car that way. Remember, the Midget is the little guy on the road. Want to give those bigger cars and trucks every indication where you intend to go so they won't try to run over you. I'm sure you can find something small that will work with the car's style if you don't like the lamps that came on the CB cars.
I do like the way you filled the holes though, nice work. I think you'll find that you need to trim back the original bumper supports a couple of inches more to clear the 72 grill. Probably back to about the place where the white paint begins in the third photo you posted.
I'm with Bill, don't forego proper turn signals - your life (and your passenger's) may depend on it.
I've seen some reconfigured Midgets using Bug-Eye Sprite front turn signal lamps. They're small, round, and unobtrusive, and they get the job done. $27.95 each at Moss for the complete unit with a clear lens. You may have to use a yellow bulb; not sure about IN regs.
This is an archived discussion from the The MG Experience ForumsIf you would like to post a reply, please click below to visit the The MG Experience Forums:
MG Midget Forum: 76 Midget bumper conversion update
Archive Index | The MG Experience Forums | Return to The MG Experience