MGB & GT Forum

Reading the instructions included with the new complete dash cover from Moss. On the fixed foam block on the passenger side of car I see it says use NO glue, but their instructions vaguely mention gluing the new dash pad in that area?
I'm thinking no glue at all in this area both on the core and new pad? Or??
I have read a few articles on this install but if someone wants to point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it.
Thanks for any help supplied

Michael.

It's been a few years since I've done mine. You still have to glue around the outside edge of the pillow side of the dash where it folds over the edge. The gauge side needs the glue as I remember. Getting the material glued around edges is the hardest part. Call Moss they usually can give you an answer on their products

Michael.

The fixed foam blocks were hand formed, so there is a lot of variance from one dash to another. I use a Stanley Surform shaping tool to sand the block so the cover fits over it accurately: http://www.stanleytools.com/en-us/products/hand-tools/woodworking-tools/files-surform/714-in-surform-shaver/21-115

The 1970 dash cover is the easiest to install as the gauge cluster area is the only critical part. Make sure that the area where the oil pressure gauge mounts is as thin as possible by carefully removing padding from the dash face vinyl. Originally the factory covers had padding here, but the gauge surround was evidently clamped with a tremendous amount of force as evidenced by the deformed padding and vinyl. Without an appropriate press it will be hard to get that much force, so remove the padding, so you are down to just the vinyl facing in this area. (This is the same for all 1968-76 dashes)
The 1968-71 heater controls do not have escutcheons, so make sure that the padding in these areas is not overly thick. If it is, the knob will not latch onto the control without indenting the vinyl. Hopefully you have what is left of your old dash to compare to. The later 1971-76 dash controls have escutcheons that clamp the padding down, so are not as sensitive to thickness.

Once the cover fits over the formed foam correctly move onto the gauges. The critical part is to get the cover accurately fitted to the left side of the dash panel so the headlight and brake switches seat correctly. If necessary carefully remove padding from the back side of the dash cover using a blunt screw driver to peel the foam, not cut it. This side should be a close fit out of the box, but if necessary make corrections to the foam for clearance so the cover will fit fully against the steel.

Once the cover looks to fit correctly, cut out the speedo and tach openings. Go 1/4" on the small side to start. Then work up to the full size. Ensure that the light and brake lamp recesses are correctly located.

Use the speedo and tach to locate the dash cover, then move to the fuel and temperature gauges. Install these gauges and snug them down. The dash cover should now be fully seated to the steel dash without any gapping.

When everything looks to be correctly fitted we can use glue. I have used Gorilla glue on the front face of the dash cover with good success. Don't use too much glue as it foams and will stick the gauges in place. A suggestion would be a light coating of petroleum jelly on the gauge body to make sure this doesn't happen. Again, use the gauges to locate and clamp the left side of the dash in place. Do not apply glue to the right side or back of the dash at this time. We need to make sure the gauge and switch locations are solidly located.

Once the gauge area has set up, you can put some glue on the right hand face block area although it is not really needed.

Attaching the dash cover to the back of the steel dash can be done in stages. I use wood clamps on the bottom of the dash moving about 1' at a time. I use spray contact cement, such as 3M. Spray, let tack, pull the vinyl over the edge of the steel dash, then clamp.
On the top edge of the dash, I use a single hole paper punch to create a hole where the stud goes through the vinyl. Then I cut a slit from the outside edge of the vinyl to the hole. This prevents the vinyl from tearing as it is pulled into position. Again, I work 1' at a time. Glue, then I slide a fender washer (approx. 1" diameter) over the stud with nut and tighten to clamp the vinyl in place.
With the top and bottom adhered, I work on the sides. These will have to be pie sliced to match the tight corners. Again, clamps are used to hold the vinyl in place once the glue tacks.

Once the clamps are removed, the original lower pop riveted washers on the early dashes, or the later clips can be installed to ensure the plastic does not pull free.